Just bought 2 1998 seadoo gtx Ltd that had sat outside for ten yrs. supposedly had rebuilt engines but upon picking up one is completely locked up and looks like it has thrown a crank bearing. Anyways the other one I’m rebuilding the carbs and have removed them. The carb was super corroded inside and the butterfly’s are stuck and won’t move. I put them in diesel for 5 days and then tried boiling water and I still can’t get them to budge. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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1998 seadoo gtx Ltd carb butterfly’s stuck
- Thread starter Redrider4
- Start date
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Yep, get clean used ones. I just went thru this with a 951 I installed for a guy. His ski didn't have the diaper around the exhaust joint. They dripped water all season. When I tore the ski apart the butterflies would barely move and the insides were garbage. Worst part was he just rebuilt then at the beginning of the season. I bought mint ones off eBay for $100 shipped, only thing wrong was the fuel pump T was broken. So, I just used the one off the old carbs which was probably the only good part anyway. I literally could have just ran them, they were that clean inside. I'll post some pics later.
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
I'd separate them first if you haven't already, if you're going to try and salvage with a rebuild kit, focus on dissembling everything for now, then put it in the oven at 265 degrees for 10 min. This should free up the butterfly shaft. Common with R/C engines that sit too long, we'd put the carb in the oven to get the barrel moving again. You'll run into some more difficulty getting those rusted screws out on the metering block, just either drill them out or get a screw removal tool. Or you can do like mentioned above, buy new used carbs.
If they look remotely like these, throw them out.
If, and this is a big if, your going to did assemble them you will bed to file the back of the butterfly screws to remove them PROPERLY. They assemble the carbs and then peen the back of the screws so if they were to rattle loose they won't fall out. You'll need new screws, you'll need to install them, use red loctite, and somehow mar the thread so they can't rattle out.
The biggest bitch is the throttle shafts. There are plastic bushings in the carbs, if there is any corrosion behind them they will always be tight. I have reamed the bushings at the machine shop only to have them get tight the following season. Hopefully you can get then to work, just remember they should snap right back to there home position like nothing, zero drag, zero hesitation.
If you want, a few pages in on my 96 XP resto thread you can see what I did to those carbs.
If, and this is a big if, your going to did assemble them you will bed to file the back of the butterfly screws to remove them PROPERLY. They assemble the carbs and then peen the back of the screws so if they were to rattle loose they won't fall out. You'll need new screws, you'll need to install them, use red loctite, and somehow mar the thread so they can't rattle out.
The biggest bitch is the throttle shafts. There are plastic bushings in the carbs, if there is any corrosion behind them they will always be tight. I have reamed the bushings at the machine shop only to have them get tight the following season. Hopefully you can get then to work, just remember they should snap right back to there home position like nothing, zero drag, zero hesitation.
If you want, a few pages in on my 96 XP resto thread you can see what I did to those carbs.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
Buy new. You'll get all new carbs, accelerator pump. etc.
Verify the jets when you buy/install them. They may not come with the correct ones for your application!
Verify the jets when you buy/install them. They may not come with the correct ones for your application!
The rust doesn't bother me, I just cherried this one up and it runs flawless. It's the throttle shafts that are the concern. Yes, it's the same carb.
I used the following link and a cordless drill, carb cleaner and a few taps to chase all the threads in the carb. The little brush set is the best thing for carbs, last pic.
Stainless steel Rotary Wheel and Brush Set 5 Pc
I used the following link and a cordless drill, carb cleaner and a few taps to chase all the threads in the carb. The little brush set is the best thing for carbs, last pic.
Stainless steel Rotary Wheel and Brush Set 5 Pc
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
I received replacement screws for the butterfly's this week, 10 stainless allen heads 3mm x .50 pitch for less than $3.50 shipped. Service Manual calls for 242 loctite, but I also put a touch of red loctite on the back side afterward.
Thanks for the help everyone! I was able to take the carbs off the seadoo with the bad engine and they were in much better condition then these ones besides having one butterfly stuck. I was able to heat it up a little with a torch on the inside to free it up a little and then removed the butterfly plate and then hit out the shaft. I then cleaned it really good with emery cloth and cleaned the rubber seals and re installed. Works perfect now! Now just waiting for my rebuild kit to arrive. Thanks again for the reply’s!
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