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1998 GTX LTD Extremely Hard To Start Cold But Super Easy To Start When Warm

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Hey everyone,

Let me start off by saying im extremely meticulous when it comes to maintaining and taking care of my stuff (as you will see below). Recently i have addressed all the issues on my 1998 GTX Ltd. with the exception of one… the ski is extremely hard to start when cold. I sit at the dock fiddling with the choke and hitting the start button for a solid 10 minutes before it fires. But once it starts and gets going it runs like a dream.. switch off and on with the slightest touch to the start button. Leave it at the dock for 30 minutes and same problem again… Could it be a weak battery ? Can a weak battery do this ?…

I should state I have already:

1. Rebuilt carbs with a mikuni set from OSD parts which even included new springs and everything needed needles, seats etc… checked pop off is within spec. Set the high and low speeds according to seadoosource, set the idle to 1500-1580 in water ( used a more accurate gauge then the one on the seadoo).

2. Changed all the grey fuel and vent lines with new lines

3. Changed fuel selector with new WSM one.

4. Fixed f1 fuse and moved it upstream (gauge was not working, it is now)
5. Changed water separator with oem one

6. changed all the check valves for fuel and oil.

7. Rebuilt rave valves, new oem bellows washers rings gaskets etc.. and cleaned them well. And reinstalled and set them all the way in per manual for 98 gtx ltd

8. Changed carrier bearing with oem+ one from osd

9. Changed oil lines with tygon / oem seadoo (small lines) and the rubber grommet on bottom of oil tank.

10. Rebuilt jet pump with new bearings etc.. all oem or oem+ From osd … running skat trak swirl 13/19 with new wear ring.

11. Installed new BR8ES plugs and gapped them to .21

… among many other cosmetic things and possibly forgetting some other mechanical things.

Some points that I should point out:

1. Battery takes much much longer than my other batteries to charge when its hooked up to the charged (outside the ski)

2. When im staring the ski it would sometimes just cut out while my hand is on the start button cranking (could be weak battery or starter ?)

3. When i plug in the dess key for a couple seconds in the beginning i get a flashing light indicating 12V low then goes away.

4. When it did slightly fire up a couple times i would give it gas and it would immediately die as soon as i press the gas.

thing is if it was a weak battrey/starter why does it start so easily once its run and warmed up ? Literally 1 touch of the start button.

any help is appreciated, really hate the feeling of sitting at the dock for 10+ minutes trying to start it.

Thank you!!

Update: took the battery to a local battery shop, its manufactured in Sept 2019 it tested to have 12.65V and 280 amps.

Still hunting to find the problem
 
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When I start mine cold, I pull the throttle twice. This activates the accelerator pump, and acts as a primer. No choke, no more throttle. Usually works for me.
 
When I start mine cold, I pull the throttle twice. This activates the accelerator pump, and acts as a primer. No choke, no more throttle. Usually works for me.

I tried this didn’t change anything still had to keep trying forever to get the thing to fire. Its so frustrating sitting at the dock trying to get it started :/
 
Little bit of an update i picked up a Bosch compression tester, engine compression is great 130 on pto cylinder and 132 on mag cylinder. The 951 new is 135 as far as i know.

I also went to the local lordco and bought OEM NGK spark plug boots TB05EMA and a bunch of BR8ES plugs going to trim the plug wires 1/4” back and hook new everything up. To eliminate the spark as a suspect.. any other suggestions would really be appreciated!!

Even thinking about taking the carbs and going through all the fuel system work i did again, ive already rebuilt carbs and tested pop off pressure but doesn’t hurt to check it again (really dont want to go through the hassle again though)

So any other suggestions would be much appreciated

Thanks!

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The experts on this site tend to agree that the springs that come in the carb kits (even the genuine Mikuni ones) are the incorrect springs, and that you should re-use your original springs if they are in good enough condition. I'm certainly not a carb pro but the carbs are the first things I would suspect of causing this issue
 
If you pull the plugs and pour some premix into the cylinders does it startup?,,,if yes,,,you may have a carb issue.
Have you load tested this battery?,,,is it 12.6'ish after you ride?
Have you checked that it is charging?
 
If you pull the plugs and pour some premix into the cylinders does it startup?,,,if yes,,,you may have a carb issue.
Have you load tested this battery?,,,is it 12.6'ish after you ride?
Have you checked that it is charging?

I have not attempted the pouring of premix, i will give that a try this weekend at the lake. It does seem to start easier now after changing plugs and plug caps (out of water). I will still need to test it in the water and report back. As for the battery 12.65 after using it all day. I have not checked its charging but id assume it wouldn’t be 12.65 after cranking for a while at the dock.
 
Also checked the Accelerator pump which works perfectly, i checked it when i reassembled carbs but out of curiosity i just went to the ski and took a quick video to test it again looks to be working in perfect order take a look at the video i took

Accelerator pump test 1998 Seadoo GTX LTD.

I assume this is how its supposed to work? It just shoots a bit of fuel into the carbs ?

Thanks!
 
Hey everyone,

Let me start off by saying im extremely meticulous when it comes to maintaining and taking care of my stuff (as you will see below). Recently i have addressed all the issues on my 1998 GTX Ltd. with the exception of one… the ski is extremely hard to start when cold. I sit at the dock fiddling with the choke and hitting the start button for a solid 10 minutes before it fires. But once it starts and gets going it runs like a dream.. switch off and on with the slightest touch to the start button. Leave it at the dock for 30 minutes and same problem again… Could it be a weak battery ? Can a weak battery do this ?…

I should state I have already:

1. Rebuilt carbs with a mikuni set from OSD parts which even included new springs and everything needed needles, seats etc… checked pop off is within spec. Set the high and low speeds according to seadoosource, set the idle to 1500-1580 in water ( used a more accurate gauge then the one on the seadoo).

2. Changed all the grey fuel and vent lines with new lines

3. Changed fuel selector with new WSM one.

4. Fixed f1 fuse and moved it upstream (gauge was not working, it is now)
5. Changed water separator with oem one

6. changed all the check valves for fuel and oil.

7. Rebuilt rave valves, new oem bellows washers rings gaskets etc.. and cleaned them well. And reinstalled and set them all the way in per manual for 98 gtx ltd

8. Changed carrier bearing with oem+ one from osd

9. Changed oil lines with tygon / oem seadoo (small lines) and the rubber grommet on bottom of oil tank.

10. Rebuilt jet pump with new bearings etc.. all oem or oem+ From osd … running skat trak swirl 13/19 with new wear ring.

11. Installed new BR8ES plugs and gapped them to .21

… among many other cosmetic things and possibly forgetting some other mechanical things.

Some points that I should point out:

1. Battery takes much much longer than my other batteries to charge when its hooked up to the charged (outside the ski)

2. When im staring the ski it would sometimes just cut out while my hand is on the start button cranking (could be weak battery or starter ?)

3. When i plug in the dess key for a couple seconds in the beginning i get a flashing light indicating 12V low then goes away.

4. When it did slightly fire up a couple times i would give it gas and it would immediately die as soon as i press the gas.

thing is if it was a weak battrey/starter why does it start so easily once its run and warmed up ? Literally 1 touch of the start button.

any help is appreciated, really hate the feeling of sitting at the dock for 10+ minutes trying to start it.

Thank you!!

Update: took the battery to a local battery shop, its manufactured in Sept 2019 it tested to have 12.65V and 280 amps.

Still hunting to find the problem
Hi mate, just another thing to check is the fuel tap at the top of the ski. Check all the lines and perhaps disconnect the line going into the car and confirm you have easy flow
 
A starter kicking out,,,can be a weak starter, or a poor battery,,,did you load test the battery?
 
Okay some further updates : I replaced the battery with a fully charged brand new deka AGM one, i checked the vents for gas tank all are good and facing right direction. I replaced spark plugs with new BR8ES ones and gapped them to .22, i trimmed spark plug lines 1/4” inch back and put new NGK OEM plug caps, i syphoned all the old fuel out and put fresh premium fuel in there with some marine sta-bil…. Took it to the lake same issue this time it would not start at all……

HOWEVER…

i found a puddle of gas/oil mix in the hull… so its leaking somewhere … i suspect the carbs… ??? How though i just rebuilt them with GENUINE MIKUNI SET FROM OSD set included everything oem its called “back to oem” … really getting frustrated with this thing :/

Any help is really really appreciated

Thank you!
 

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That oil no doubt is from a crack along the seam of the oil tank facing the gas tank which is why you can't see it.,,,perhaps the popoff is too low.
 
If there is fuel in the hull you are risking an explosion. You need to find the leak asap and that would cause hard starting if you are pulling air instead of fuel.
 
Okay finally figured out the problem, it’s all fixed now !!!

Thoroughly tested it past 3 days now starts with the slightest touch of the button and rides like a dream… okay so the problem turned out to be carb related… but not what i would have ever expected… i checked the pop off it is perfect as i was pressure testing everything i noticed the diaphragm was not holding pressure even though its brand new mikuni turns out the housing bolts that came with the rebuild kit are slightly longer than the original one which didn’t allow the for the diaphragm to fully seal took carbs out made sure everything is properly done used old oem screws went through whole fuel system made sure everything is tight and now it is perfect !!!!

Thank you everyone for the help!!

Here is a pic of the bolts that caused the issue, and if anyone is running into the same issue make sure the bolts are the exact size otherwise diaphragm wont do its job!

Thanks again everyone !

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