1998 GTI help again please

[hatch480]

Reported while ago that we bought 2 GTI's for the kids, one is a 1998 and one a 2004-rfi. The 1998 one has played up since we bought it and have had some problems solved with your help thanks. The querie now is how much better should the 04 ski be to the 98. The 98 one has a top speed of 32 mph the 04 twice that. The 04 ski jumps out of the water the 98 seems to labour getting up on the plane, if you put it into a spin and pull itout it really struggles for a while to pull back up onto the plane, it also makes a noise, like a vibration or nearly better described as a rattle when labouring to pull out of the turn. Just in a straight line the 04 ski jumps out in a matter of a few yards, the 98 sji probably 15-20 yards. The difference is enormous. Is this normal, is this just the difference between an older ski and a newer fuel injected one and we are expecting to much from the older ski? We have no experience to know whether it is just normal for the older one.

To recap the 98 ski wasn't running properly when we got it. We have done the compression test both 130 psi. kit for the carbi, new fuel lines and filters etc. mostly with your help, the motor to us seems fine now. Starts well and seems to run fairly sweet, although this model doesn't have a rev counter so don't know what top revs are.

Any thoughts on this would be great thanks. One last question as a newbie to jetski's and probably a silly one but what is WOT?

Great sight for us dumbasses :cheers:

 

[hatch480]

Should have mentioned that the 98 will run at that top speed of 32mph for ages and doesn't seem to miss a beat in a straight line.

 

[dc7730]

Wide Open Throttle

 

[seadoolover]

rattling...

That "rattling" is the tension spring on the jet pump...when under load it compresses and shouldn't rattle... they rattle away on the trailer when flushing the ski cause there is no load on the spring here. As for the power comparison you should be getting more out of that older ski and i think the reason why you aren't is you may have a wear ring issue. Do you feel the ski "slipping" as if it's not getting enough traction sometimes? You should be getting 45mph out of that older one bearing in mind the everything running as it should. A good indication of a wear ring problem is that your ski " slips " in turning as you mentioned and then bogs a bit and labours to plane again... hope this gives you a better understanding of the problem. Replace the wear ring and you should be fine.

As for W.O.T. ...MACH 10!!

 

[hatch480]

Thanks for the info. Your right, got a chance to look at it today (weekend) wear ring looks shot bout 5 mm gap and pitted at the front of intake. Now to decide whether to tackle it myself, have read a few from kustomkarl doesn't sound to bad but impeller removal tool would be a problem. Nearest service person is 2 hours away and every time i take it there it takes weeks and costs a fortune. Thanks for the help.

 

[kustomkarl]

Hatch the removal of the wear ring isn't that hard of a job. A for the tool needed you could purchase one fairly cheap...($25.00 USD)well here in the USA. See if the dealer can get you the tool needed to remove the impeller. Here is an overview of removing and replacing the wear ring. This will give you a quick view. It is more model specific in the manual you can view as a premium member.

Replacing the wear ring
For starters....

1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!

2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.

3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.

4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.

5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.

They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.

6.) Now you have your pump and impellor in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...

7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)

8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (may take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)

9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.

10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. ( I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.

11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.

12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring

13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....

14.) Reinstall the impeller in the reverse order.

Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impeller shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.

Once the impeller is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..

15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.

16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.

17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.

18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil



Keep us posted on you progress.
Karl