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1998 GTI 717 Engine Removal

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Vicious

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Quick question. I have removed everything (oil line, carb, top end..ect.) except the PTO and the shaft into it. When I pull the engine (basically just the bottom end with MAG and PTO attached) out, can I slide the shaft out of the PTO at this time?
 
1998 GTI 717 motor mounts bad...

Thanks for all the replies.... :rofl:

OK I was able to use pliers and get the quick clamps off from around the PTO. After I pulled the engine up and forward the shaft slid out of the PTO.

It is a good thing I pulled the engine because I found two broken engine mounts from the starter side.

The GTI ski saga continues.

I should have the bottom of this 717 this after noon. :cheers:
 
engine removal

You should remove the jet pump and drive shaft anyway because you will need to align the engine when you reinstall it.
DAWG
 
Uh, sorry about the late response. Was in the yard all day today and just now catching up on posts.

Are you using a manual for the engine removal? You should consider becoming a Premium Member for access to the shop manuals essential for the type of work you are conducting.

Dennis is right, the entire engine/driveline system needs to be aligned together when you reassemble everything.
 
When you say aligned isnt more less starting from engine and working back cant see any adjustments.
 
PTO piston rod lost its bearings.

Sad news, After replacing the top end, pistons, and head I took the bottom end apart today and learn that the rod on the PTO side had lost the bearings. How does this happen?

So now what would be the best way to proceed form the following options:

1. Since I already have $500 in a new top end. $200 for a new head and $300 for the new top end (pistons, cylinder sleeves board to .50 over, etc.) should I proceed with buying a new crank and rods? I would have to replace all the bearings or at least clean the heck out of them due to the metal shavings floating around.

2. Cut my losses and remove all the new stuff (pistons, head gaskets, etc.) and put the mangled old stuff together and get a short block?

If option #2 is my best bet, were is the best (cheapest) place to get the short block from?

Besides scraping the ski what other option is there?
 
You got it have half rebuilt might get a rebuilt crank for 300 . I am process of doing top really should take the bottom apart . Is it much of a job to take the bottom half apart
 
Manuals

I have the following Manuals for my 1998 Sea-Doo GTI:

Sea-Doo Operator's Guide 1998 - 219 000 076
Sea-Doo Tool Booklet - 219 200 106
Sea-Doo Shop Manual 1998 - 219 100 068
Sea-Doo Racing Handbook 1998 - 219 000 080
Sea-Doo Part Catalog 1998 - 219 300 540

And last but not least Clymer's Sea-Doo Water Vehicles Shop Manual 1997-2001.

Is there some other manual that I am missing?
 
The bottom is not hard at all, you just have to make sure you have a fly wheel puller to get to the 8 or so bolts holding the magneto cover on to both halves of the bottom end. And rember to mark your spot for the armature plate location.
 
That doesn't sound so bad.. I guess that means i better check mine all out.. If i see a crank that fits yours i will let you know
 
Is there some other manual that I am missing?
I suppose not.:biggrinjester:

But it sounds like accumulating manuals is the least of your problems now.

Speaking from my experience with cars, I don't have the patience to deal with machine shops because they don't have the patience to deal with me.

So a shortblock/longblock replacement is more my style. I've heard SBT is pretty good but whole engines are never cheap (cheaper than new boats I suppose).
 
the crankshaft comes with all the bearings. you don't need a machine shop. buy the crank-put it in. an hour's work.
 
you need to look at sbt.com and check out there parts. I have installed 2 720 engines on my 97 and 99 gti..you can get a long block with 1yr no fault for like 699 and a 2 yr for 899.00 there not hard to pull and install....Goodluck
 
you can get a rebuilt crank from seadoo for about $350. although i haven't ever heard a complaint about hot rods stuff. BUT-there are a lot more seadoo-made cranks out there. we complain about the dealers service, and their prices. we don't complain about their parts themselves.
 
you need to look at sbt.com and check out there parts. I have installed 2 720 engines on my 97 and 99 gti..you can get a long block with 1yr no fault for like 699 and a 2 yr for 899.00 there not hard to pull and install....Goodluck

I have only seen short blocks for that price. Can you provide a sorce for this long block?
 
there isn't really a short block or a long block. people are misusing the terms for the most part. SBT only sells motors with heads. most rebuilders are that way. that way you can't see what they put in the motor without voiding the warranty. c'mon dude. you already did the top end. you can't re-sell for more than half what you paid for the parts. buy a crank. put it in the cases. finish the job. OR; find a rebuilder that'll sell you a motor outrighr. OR; buy a core on eBay to send in. there is a rusty ugly one on ebay right now. closed with no bids at $100 last week. just relisted. there is also a 720 with bad compression in one hole for $300. search [sea* 720] and [sea* 71*].
 
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