1998 1800 Challenger problems

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Cid6.7

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Took the boat out for a rip over the weekend everything went fine as usual but then the left engine quit while pulling a tuber..Then it would just barely idle to limp back to shore..

So while @ shore opened engine bay seen nothing outa the norm so took it back out for a test ride then the right engine quit & left ran fine & still now the right engine just wont run with a load on it get it up to 2g rev & it dies..

Anyone know what could have caused this..? And why it would just switch engines like that..?

Thanks
 
That's a strange one.

Engines randomly not running... and changing... that would make me think MPEM. But... before we can point the finger... we need to do some trouble shooting.

I would start with checking the rectifiers. If one of them went bad, it can cause all kinds of strange problems. Run each engine... and check the voltage at the battery. you should see 13.5 to 14.5 volts at 5000 rpm's. Also.. check for AC voltage.
 
Oh please dont say MPEM ahhhhhh lol

What and where are the rectifiers..? I took the cover off the brain box & its imaculate in there not a sigle piece of rust or corrosion nothing loose or anything

I knoticed that on the left muffler the rave valve was kinda popped up on 1 side so took it off & apart & the little screw that holds the clamp for the diaphram was just laying in the bottom of the valve body..Highly doubt that has anything to do with these symptoms but was a good find anyway..

Could it have been the altitude ? I wasnt @ our lake & its way higher then what we normally run..But it ran good for the 1st hour or so.

Sorry I just noticed I put down its a 98 but actually its a 97.. Fat fingers I guess..lol

Update : Dry started it both engines fired right up but now the left engine wants to rev up over 3000 rpm so pulled DES quick.. Taking it down to boat launch now will update again when we get back wish us luck..
 
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Took it out ran good for 15 minutes or so then drivers side engine quit, fires up fine then apply throttle gets to about 3500 4k & bogs down & quits.. ? neutral safety switch or whatever Ive been reading about..? Where is it located..?

Thanks
 
Ok took airfilters off cleaned them out sprayed carb cleaner in each one while running tested the voltage on each engine the one running weird was up around 13.32 & the good running one was under 13 around 12.34 but I didnt rev to 5g only around 3500 cause I was only one in boat & couldnt rev & see voltmeter @ same time..lol

I also crawled under boat & snapped some pics lemme know whatchas thing the impellers are pretty beat up also the hull thru fittings are like cracked & hangin out..??

As I ran the boat in the lake today the drivers engine never died once but it did have sporadic revs @ around 5-6k

Thanks guys
 

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The impellers could use a clean up. But those are good skat-trak impellers. Don't get rid of them... send them out to be serviced.

The white thing is a driveshaft protector. They suck, and break. Next time you have the pump out... just pull it out, and throw it away.


The neutral switch is in the throttle levers... but it won't cause the engine to die. It just limits the RPM to 3500.


If you couldn't get the RPM's up to 5000... get a helper.
 
Sounds like pump bearings in your video. Check or change the oil in them. Bearings may need servicing. Honestly, my boat sounds like that as well, not as bad, but it can get a bit chattery out of the water. The FSM also recommends spraying the impeller with soapy water to minimize friction while testing out of water. I like to use foaming cleaners, like scrubbing bubbles, it sticks well.


Before you do anything, check all fuses and their connections. Then engine connectors, ect. Clean, inspect, reinstall.

You also need to think about what the engine "feels" like it is doing when it quits or runs weird.

Ignition problems are either off or on operation. If the engine randomly misses, then quits like the key was turned off, that points to ignition. They can produce weak ignition problems, but that is more rare than common. Normally weak ignition results in an overall lack of power and hard starts.

If the engine looses power, continues to run, feels weak, eventually sputters and dies, ect, that is more likely to be a fuel problem.

Hard starts, poor performance, loud noises, all point to internal problems.

The rectifiers are the small identical boxes with 5 wires. Remove one of the 15A charging fuses. Launch the boat and see if there is a change. Repeat for the other side.

You can unplug the yellow wires from the rectifier to check the stator, it should have 0.8ohms between any two of them. You can also test to ground to make sure they are not shorted to ground.

If you have no clue, the best thing to do is ask. Finding the actual problem is more important than attempting to resolve it. (and less expensive) Good luck.

:cheers:
Ernest
 
had a similar experience couple of weeks ago but with one engine. one plug looked terrible. changed em all. good to go. yours sounds a bit more complicated but what the heck. also fits with the elevation change.
 
Thanks guys for the replies

Yesterday I took it out the engine never died once and ran fine up until it hits around 5000 rpm then it feels like it starts cativating and the revs start going from 5-7k if I go wot

So I bet the carbs need to be rebuilt or just keep spraying the carb cleaner thru it until it runs better.

That and I'll go get some new plugs today I replaced them last year but their pretty black already
 
How does one go about changing/checking the pump oil..?
Im pretty handy @ fixing anything but when it comes to these little engines & jet drives I have no clue..lol
So if I can work on it myself with the help from here that would be fantastic so I dont have to pay a arm & a leg @ the dealer..

Thanks again
 
So I changed the plugs and she ran like new unbelievable the difference in performance this is the 3rd set I've gone thru in 3.5 years is that normal for these little engines with 150 psi ?
 
UMMMM.......

2-stroke engines eat plugs. I change them a couple times a year. Cleaning them never works. Any time you have a running issue, you should put new plugs in. If you buy them at an auto parts store, and not from the seadoo dealer... they should only be about $2 each.


Anyway... the oil pumps.

You should check them over once in a while, since they are the life blood of the engine. Also... I recommend servicing the system every 2 years. This includes:

1) Replacing the filter
2) replacing the small oil lines after the pump
3) Bleeding the system
4) Verify the pump alignment. (Idle adjustment)

If you do that... you will know that the system is pumping, and is properly adjusted.


The service manual has a full outline for the oil system.
 
So I changed the plugs and she ran like new unbelievable the difference in performance this is the 3rd set I've gone thru in 3.5 years is that normal for these little engines with 150 psi ?

You should have started with new plugs when you noticed it running bad. I change them every year and I only use my boat about 5 times a season. This year ive used it twice and it will still get new plugs put in when i winterize it. It cost a whopping 12 bucks.
 
Yeah I should have started with new ones right off the hop I dont know why it didnt cross my mind I guess cause theyve just been replaced a year ago..Anyway now I know I'll just keep a spare new pair in the storage container..

Thanks guys..!
 
Yeah I should have started with new ones right off the hop I dont know why it didnt cross my mind I guess cause theyve just been replaced a year ago..Anyway now I know I'll just keep a spare new pair in the storage container..

Thanks guys..!

thats a great idea. I keep 2 spares on the boat in case it starts running bad while out. Well worth 5 bucks.
 
I keep a set of plugs in every one of my 2-stroke toys... and a wrench to change them with. I also keep some in the tool box of my jet ski trailer. No reason to end a day short for a cheap spark plug.

Besides... when you see the guy at the ramp having a hard time... you can sell them for $5 each. (lol)
 
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