1997 SeaDoo Xp Starting Issue Start/Stop button?

[Clayton125]

Thanks in advance for reading my post. I just joined the group today in hopes of learning from some of the more experience people out there.

1997 Seadoo XP
Yesterday we had the jet ski out on the water and it ran fine until flipped over a couple times. After that the start/stop button wasnt as responsive. You would have to press it multiple times or hold on it for a while to get it to crank.

My start/stop button was torn and you can see the switch so maybe water got in?

I get the two beeps when the lanyard is attached but nothing when the start/stop is pressed.
I started it twice on the trailer after we pulled them out of the water. Now it wont crank at all when the start stop is pressed. No click from the starter solenoid or anything.

I ordered a new start/stop switch with the wire and with the new button

Has anyone had this issue before and am I on the right track?

Thank you!

Clayton

 

[Hook It Up]

Sounds like your on the right track. Check your fuses

 

[Clayton125]

Sounds like your on the right track. Check your fuses

The fuses all seem to be good. Would the starter solenoid cause this or would I most likely get a click when I try to start it?
I'm still getting no noise at all right now.

 

[Coastiejoe]

To confirm, simply jump the button with a wire. If it cranks, you found the issue. If not, then you will need to do some testing.

You can also check for voltage at the trigger wire of the solenoid. But it will be Zero if in fact the button is defective.

 

[Clayton125]

To confirm, simply jump the button with a wire. If it cranks, you found the issue. If not, then you will need to do some testing.

You can also check for voltage at the trigger wire of the solenoid. But it will be Zero if in fact the button is defective.

I initially though that the starter solenoid was good because it made no noise at all when the start button was pressed. I just went out and jumped the solenoid with a screw driver and it turned over. Does that mean that the solenoid is in fact bad?

Thanks

 

[Coastiejoe]

I initially though that the starter solenoid was good because it made no noise at all when the start button was pressed. I just went out and jumped the solenoid with a screw driver and it turned over. Does that mean that the solenoid is in fact bad?

Thanks

Nope,, it does not mean it is bad.. If in fact your Start/Stop button is bad, the Solenoid will NOT receive 12volts from the MPEM to activate the solenoid.

This is why I suggest you pull your Start Button and use a wire and jump the plug. This will bypass the button itself. If it cranks, you need a button, if not, then you need to test for voltage at the solenoid.

 

[Clayton125]

Nope,, it does not mean it is bad.. If in fact your Start/Stop button is bad, the Solenoid will NOT receive 12volts from the MPEM to activate the solenoid.

This is why I suggest you pull your Start Button and use a wire and jump the plug. This will bypass the button itself. If it cranks, you need a button, if not, then you need to test for voltage at the solenoid.

Alright So I should pull the start stop button out of the housing on the handle bars and jump it with a hot wire straight from the battery?

Thanks

 

[Coastiejoe]

Alright So I should pull the start stop button out of the housing on the handle bars and jump it with a hot wire straight from the battery?

Thanks

No,, pull it and jump across itself. You are BYPASSING the button. Basically simulating that you are pushing it.. If it cranks well, bad button. If not, then test for voltage at the trigger wire of the solenoid.

 

[Clayton125]

No,, pull it and jump across itself. You are BYPASSING the button. Basically simulating that you are pushing it.. If it cranks well, bad button. If not, then test for voltage at the trigger wire of the solenoid.

Alright thanks i'm going to try that and will get back with the results

I just was messing with the button again and got it to start a couple times.

Thanks

 

[Clayton125]

No,, pull it and jump across itself. You are BYPASSING the button. Basically simulating that you are pushing it.. If it cranks well, bad button. If not, then test for voltage at the trigger wire of the solenoid.

Well I got the start button pulled out. Just for clarification I have a yellow and red wire I assume power and a black I assume ground: Which two wire should I jump?

Thank you again for your help

 

[Coastiejoe]

Well I got the start button pulled out. Just for clarification I have a yellow and red wire I assume power and a black I assume ground: Which two wire should I jump?

Thank you again for your help

If I am not mistaken, there are ONLY two wires, yes?
If so, you need to jump them to themselves. This will simulate as though the button is being pushed. When the button is pushed, it simply completes the connection. When you touch those two wires to themselves, you are doing the same thing. If there is no easy way to jump the wires, go to the plug and run a wire from one side to the other.

 

[Clayton125]

If I am not mistaken, there are ONLY two wires, yes?
If so, you need to jump them to themselves. This will simulate as though the button is being pushed. When the button is pushed, it simply completes the connection. When you touch those two wires to themselves, you are doing the same thing. If there is no easy way to jump the wires, go to the plug and run a wire from one side to the other.

You are right, the one being black is what threw me off for a second.

I jumped the two wires and it started up the connections are very rusty i'll try to post a picture. IT bumped over a few times and cranked good a few times but it started better than when pressing the button. I think it bumping is due to the corrosion.

Thank you

 

[Coastiejoe]

You are right, the one being black is what threw me off for a second.

I jumped the two wires and it started up the connections are very rusty i'll try to post a picture. IT bumped over a few times and cranked good a few times but it started better than when pressing the button. I think it bumping is due to the corrosion.

Thank you
View attachment 37347

I'm sure based on condition it is bad. To REALLY confirm, go down he wires a few inches and strip the insulation where the wire will be nice and clean, jump or cross he wires there. I bet it cranks every time,, If so, bad button and wire harness.

 

[Clayton125]

I'm sure based on condition it is bad. To REALLY confirm, go down he wires a few inches and strip the insulation where the wire will be nice and clean, jump or cross he wires there. I bet it cranks every time,, If so, bad button and wire harness.

Thanks, I went ahead and took your advice to do that. It seemed to work much better a few inches down when I got a good firm press wire to wire.

I have never replaced one of these switches before and have traced the wires into the wire harness where it plugs into what looks like the computer in the fron with the fuses. Is it tough to re splice them into the harness? I just don't want to get over my head and end up causing another problem. I assume it's not the best idea to use heat shrink butt connectors and splice the new button to the old wires. LOL probably not a good idea but i'm just not comfortable down by the harness. The switch and wires should be here today

Also another quick question. We had it out Sunday in my friends pond and sucked up some grass into the grate a few times and had to reach under and pull it out but did so soon after it became clogged. Is there a way to clean the water intake out better while on the trailer before I take them to the lake this weekend? The lake is 4 hours away, going to Bull Shoals.


Thanks again for your help
This has helped me tremendously I am pretty confident it is the start/stop switch.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I'll be home shortly. I'll send a link on how I wired my trailer lights. Do it like I did and it will last forever.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Here is the link, make sure to put the Heat Shrink tubing on before you twist the wire, if not, you will have to re-do he work..

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?63155-Installed-New-LED-Tail-Lights

 

[Clayton125]

Here is the link, make sure to put the Heat Shrink tubing on before you twist the wire, if not, you will have to re-do he work..

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?63155-Installed-New-LED-Tail-Lights

I did that except for the soldering with hear shrink butt connectors . Hopefully it holds. Thanks

 

[Coastiejoe]

I would take the time to solder them, butt connectors are not a good item for water use. It promotes a point of corrosion due to two different metals. It will work, but will become a problem over time...

At the very least, fully coat them with some sort of a permitex. But again,, I'd get rid of them. My soldered wires will NEVER go bad and they are submerged in the salt water every time I launch,,,

 

[Clayton125]

I would take the time to solder them, butt connectors are not a good item for water use. It promotes a point of corrosion due to two different metals. It will work, but will become a problem over time...

At the very least, fully coat them with some sort of a permitex. But again,, I'd get rid of them. My soldered wires will NEVER go bad and they are submerged in the salt water every time I launch,,,

Yeah that makes sense I just got a solder set up from my grandpas garage so I'll take it off and re do it. Didn't think about the different materials being in contact but it was a fast fix for the weekend.

Thanks

Clayton