1997 Seadoo GTX MPEM Transient Suppressor Diode (MR 2535 )

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mjsolly

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1997 Seadoo GTX MPEM Transient Suppressor Diode (MR 2535 ) defective after jump start. Blows 5A fuse in MPEM instantly. I am trying to replace the diode but I am not sure where it is. I believe it is adjacent and to the left of the 15 amp fuse. I have included a picture of the MPEM and an x-ray. Any thoughts on the location? Am I correct?

After jump start won't run.
5 amp fuse blows instantly.
 

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1997 Seadoo GTX MPEM Transient Suppressor Diode (MR 2535 ) defective after jump start. Blows 5A fuse in MPEM instantly. I am trying to replace the diode but I am not sure where it is. I believe it is adjacent and to the left of the 15 amp fuse. I have included a picture of the MPEM and an x-ray. Any thoughts on the location? Am I correct?

After jump start won't run.
5 amp fuse blows instantly.

I have repaired a couple of those, let me draw an arrow on your X-ray and host the pic.
 
That would be awesome

Here ya go:
176.jpg


Can I share a few lessons learned with you? There's a few ways to get into the potting on these and heat is the most cost effective way in, but the board circuits are pretty sensitive to it and so are the solder puddles on the backside of the boards where the ends of everything are soldered in place through the holes.

If you use a heat source and get things to hot, all manner of shorts can occur and the module is junk at that point.

I find heating a hobbyist style knife blade will get you right in there and not damage a thing versus heating larger areas of the potting and risking damage that way. Just take your time, you can get the diode exposed on this one pretty easy, it's about a 15 minute job all in.
 
Once you have the potting cleared away and the body of the diode exposed, take note of it's orientation and compare it to the marking on your new diode body it has to go back on the board in the correct direction.

I cut the legs off right at the diode body, straighten them upright and clean and tape them off and use a little black RTV to seal off the hole and isolate the work area in case any solder should fall down off the new connection don't want it creating a short to anything.

Locking forceps are the ticket to hold the new parts together while your soldering them, just leave it a little high and seal over with RTV and your all done.
177.jpg
 
I am a dentist so I have a self heating hobby knife so that will be no problem. Oh and the x-Ray was taken with my cephalometric x-Ray machine. Anyone for braces on their seadoo?
That is a great plan. I have already ordered the diode and potting resin. Thank you so much for the detailed plan.
Btw I have temporarily replaced the MPEM with a used one but the beep when attaching the key is barely audible. Is there a fix for that?
 
I am a dentist so I have a self heating hobby knife so that will be no problem. Oh and the x-Ray was taken with my cephalometric x-Ray machine. Anyone for braces on their seadoo?
That is a great plan. I have already ordered the diode and potting resin. Thank you so much for the detailed plan.
Btw I have temporarily replaced the MPEM with a used one but the beep when attaching the key is barely audible. Is there a fix for that?

Beepers fail often. Most pull the beeper and go to Radio Shack and get something close to it. Much cheaper and louder than OEM..
 
This seems like a crap ton of work. Fun project, but time consuming. I would of took the lazy way out and just slapped a new mpem in there lol.
Subscribed though I would like to see how this is done



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!
 
This seems like a crap ton of work. Fun project, but time consuming. I would of took the lazy way out and just slapped a new mpem in there lol.
Subscribed though I would like to see how this is done



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!

Well....


The diode is $5. A NEW MPEM is +$200. So, it's a worth wild adventure.
 
Once you do a few of these electronic repair, it's just like anything else, not a crap ton of work once you've leaned the procedure. I did a few VTS controllers, and by the third one it was becoming easy. GREAT TIP regarding the heated knife!!!
Make it even easier.
-andy-
 
I am a dentist so I have a self heating hobby knife so that will be no problem. Oh and the x-Ray was taken with my cephalometric x-Ray machine. Anyone for braces on their seadoo?
That is a great plan. I have already ordered the diode and potting resin. Thank you so much for the detailed plan.
Btw I have temporarily replaced the MPEM with a used one but the beep when attaching the key is barely audible. Is there a fix for that?

You've got the MPEM repair nailed at this point, the only thing you may want to consider if it happens again using black automotive RTV to seal it up is an easier alternative for removal versus potting compound after the fact (god forbid) the need arise to revisit the project.

So your beeper issue, was this not a problem with the original module and began with it's current replacement or just been a weak tone all along?

I need to review some service records for total numbers and I'll update this post with some more info, I have found this module in particular to have an issue after repairing the diode and I'll grab a data screenshot so you can see what I'm referring to.

On Edit:
There's been a total of eleven of these one year production 1997 GTX modules on my bench since I started a different record keeping process that captures internal data screenshots of the readable/writable programming functions of these modules.

Of those, five of them had lost the accessory power cutoff duration programming function and had simply reset themselves to a zero value when the diode was taken out.

Not a big deal, the fix is a simple swipe with the cursor to reset the value back to a maximum duration of 33 seconds but running the module without the programming value reset will result in it never shutting off power to the dash creating a constant battery draw and the ROM partition of the memory that stores total engine time running hours and minutes will tick away forever more.

If you notice your dash doesn't go to sleep after 30 seconds or so just shoot me a message you can ship that over and I'll reset the programming value for you.

There are three relevant data display screens in your module, this is the one displaying the duration cutoff programming and ignition timing correction value.

3.png
 
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The beeper tone was fine with the old unit. Just very weak with the new one. Could barely hear it.

Regarding crap ton of work. This is labor of love here. I deeply enjoy fixing things that aren't fixable. I could have just sat on the couch and watched Oprah but then I would not have had these conversations and nor learned anything new. Wouldn't you want your dentist to care about how things work instead of just making you a new and expensive one. My dad was an aircraft mechanic so it is in my blood. He would be proud of me. I hope you see from my point of view.
 
Excelsior!!!
You, sir, are an AMERICAN!
"My dad was an aircraft mechanic so it is in my blood. He would be proud of me."
Wherever he is, he is shining with pride!
My dad was a crew chief on a B17 Bomber. Great stories!
Like how they used to flush the cooling system with a 8 pack of coca-cola.
Different recipe back then...
-andy-
 
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