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1997 Seadoo GTX Impeller Shaft

Solo2882

Member
Looking for thoughts on why my new impeller shaft and bearings failed after about 10 hours?
1997 Seadoo GTX IMG_5239.jpeg
 

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Typically it is from pinching the thrust bearing when installing the impeller.
Best method is to put the shaft in a vise with the threads up. Then install the bearing, washer, pump and finally impeller so nothing can fall out of place.
 
Typically it is from pinching the thrust bearing when installing the impeller.
Best method is to put the shaft in a vise with the threads up. Then install the bearing, washer, pump and finally impeller so nothing can fall out of place.

When you say pinching the trust bearing, you mean that it didn’t sit properly in the flange upon installation? Weird how it chewed up the bolt head but not the thrust washer?
 
I was wondering this as well that it might also have something to do with my engine, not be perfectly in line? It’s weird because the wear is only on the bolthead where you can see the thrust bearing riding, I’m also wondering if maybe over torquing it put too much load on the bearing. also, the wear towards the threads is also unusual for me because that’s where the shaft is sitting outside of the pump? the only reason I rebuilt this pump was because I wanted to put a Solace high-performance impillar in it. ran amazing for about 10 hours, was hitiing 60 miles an hour. And the amount of bottom and torque I had was amazing! I was beating Seadoo sparks in Drag races lol
 
PS What’s everybody’s opinion on here in getting rid of a gear oil and going to synthetic grease I really feel like that’s what I wanna do after I get my new rebuild kit for the pump?
All the new Seadoo jet pumps are assembled with grease now!
 
PS What’s everybody’s opinion on here in getting rid of a gear oil and going to synthetic grease I really feel like that’s what I wanna do after I get my new rebuild kit for the pump?
All the new Seadoo jet pumps are assembled with grease now!
I like the old because you just drain it and change it easy peasy. Plus I feel like oil keeps the bearings in better shape than grease since it’s spinning at like 6500 or so rpm’s
 
You need the oil, not grease on these.
Are saying the grease well caused the internals to fail prematurely? What if a person packed it right to the rim with grease so that none of the grease would be spun out of the way through centrifugal force?
 
Typically it is from pinching the thrust bearing when installing the impeller.
Best method is to put the shaft in a vise with the threads up. Then install the bearing, washer, pump and finally impeller so nothing can fall out of place.
Thank you for your reply. I’m just really curious on how a person can pinch the thrust bearing upon assembly. Sounds like you have experience in this? Would love some more information about your theory so I don’t make the same twice. And of course, I’ll definitely assemble the jet pump the way you recommended.
 
Are saying the grease well caused the internals to fail prematurely? What if a person packed it right to the rim with grease so that none of the grease would be spun out of the way through centrifugal force?
Yeha I would still think oil would be better because grease will just melt and move out it the way and cool down and be in a different place. Oil works good so I would stick with it.
 
The thrust bearing can slip into the groove cut in the shaft.
Grease is fine for ball bearings but on these you have needle bearings and due to the design it is much better to have oil flowing around them. The grease really isn't going to be better and no way to change it out.
 
Looking for thoughts on why my new impeller shaft and bearings failed after about 10 hours?
1997 Seadoo GTX View attachment 66663
It looks to me like the thrust bearing rollers were no rolling, or the impeller shaft was not made from the correct grade of steel. Did you buy OEM parts when you rebuilt the pump and grease all the bearings and seals with synthetic grease, then check the end play after assembled? I think its 0.040" max without the nose cone on. There shouldn't be any end play with the anti-rattle device and nose cone on.
 
You will still have end play even with the anti rattle cone because it’s just a spring. If you have the anti rattle cone with the release lever and it binds you can end up with too much load on the shaft and mess up the thrust bearing also.
 
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