1997 Seadoo Challenger 1800 newly purchased with a few issues

[Kingmarine]

1997 Seadoo Challenger 1800 newly purchased - progress thread

Hey everyone,

I just purchased a 1997 seadoo challenger 1800. The initial test was good but I really didn't know what to look for. Both engines started right up and it ran good in the water.

Today I was able to take it out on our closest lake and took some notes this time while out and could use a little assistance. Both engines seem to run good. My concerns are as follows:

1. At low rpm,s the engines are not synched and it gets worse as you open up to WOT. Have to back off one throttle to keep the RPM's even at all speeds.

2. One engine will rocket right up to WOT and the other takes longer then comes down in RPM's faster than the other one. While still at WOT position.

3. One of the throttles moves extremely easy, the other moves freely but there is quite a bit more resistance than the other.

I have searched the forums and know I should check the compression and will do so as soon as possible. I could not find exact similar issues though that match mine. Any assistance or information would be greatly appreciated.

 

[dbracela]

You probably just need to adjust the cables so that they are in sync. You said one is stiff, so hopefully it isn't getting ready to fail. Lube them at both ends and check adjustment.
As for one engine revving to WOT really quickly, are you getting cavitation on that side?

 

[Dr Honda]

Welcome.



1) It's normal. You can verify the adjustment on the cables... but they don't really have any room in the adjustment to "Sync" the engines. This is why they give you 2 throttles. If one engine is running a little stronger, or you pick up some sea grass... you need to be able to manual adjust the throttle handles.

2) Not sure what you are saying. Please expand on this.

3) In the handle unit... there is an adjustment to set the "Drag" on the handles. Pull the 4 screws, and you can get to the adjustment.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Item #2.
Sounds like you may have a worn wear ring. If so, it would allow the engine to reach high RPMs quickly.

You can try each engine separately. Give the port full throttle and then do the same with the stbd. If one reaches high RPMs but has poor performance or traction it could easily bear the wear ring or there may be something wrapped around the impeller/shaft.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[Kingmarine]

Thanks for the replies, I will look into performing these steps as soon as possible and let you know what I find out.

 

[Kingmarine]

Got to spent quite a bit of time with the boat this weekend.

Left it in the water at the campsite all night. In the morning, when swimming up to it heard the bilge pump running. I do have a small leak somewhere that I need to isolate.

Both engines run strong and push close to equal when testing one at a time. One sounded a little different than the other though.

Had a couple of issues after getting people in the water to pull... Sometimes seemed to take a little too long to start, was definitely not immediate. Then I would have one engine die when launching to pull them out of the water on the kneeboard or wakeboard. Ran good most of the time but did have one engine quit multiple times, seemed to bog down about 3-4k rpm and then have to feather the throttle around that area to get it to go up in rpm's.

Did take a video I'm going to try to post showing a hole shot when everything was working good. You guys may see or hear something I'm missing.

[video=youtube_share;i1wD0aZiL0w]http://youtu.be/i1wD0aZiL0w[/video]


I have searched the forums and with that knowledge am about to clean the rave valves, replace the buzzer, see if I can get the fuel gauge to work, look into cleaning the carburetor. And now I realize the wood on the trailer needs to be replaced so that is happening very soon.

Any and all tips, tricks, or info is greatly appreciated.

 

[Kingmarine]

Well, I've been busy as I have time. Got the rotten bunks swapped out. Changed the plugs and cleaned the rave valves. Also discovered a small oil leak dripping from the oil container where the hose connects at the bottom of it. Replaced the nylon tie and got that fixed. Also replaced the buzzer with the radio shack one recommended on in the forums.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Very good.

Just keep at it. In the end you will have learned a ton and be happy with the results.

 

[Dr Honda]

From the vid... it looks like it's running good.

If you are still having an issue around 3K PRM... then it's time to go though the carbs.

 

[Kingmarine]

From the vid... it looks like it's running good.

If you are still having an issue around 3K PRM... then it's time to go though the carbs.

That is really my fear Dr Honda. I believe I have Carb-itis. I am fairly technical, more so with computers than engines but looking at the carb breakdown and ensuring everything is adjusted correctly and goes back together correctly 4 times does make my brain feel a little overwhelmed. We shall see what happens.

 

[m.colley]

That is really my fear Dr Honda. I believe I have Carb-itis. I am fairly technical, more so with computers than engines but looking at the carb breakdown and ensuring everything is adjusted correctly and goes back together correctly 4 times does make my brain feel a little overwhelmed. We shall see what happens.

Cleaning and rebuilding carbs can be intimidating and looks worse than it actually is. With a little patience its nowhere near as bad as it appears.

Martin

 

[Dr Honda]

It's not bad at all. There are a few things to look for though.

1) The high speed check valve MUST sit flat. (Back side of the jet block) If it's bent up, replace it.

2) Verify, 100%... that the small bypass ports are open. They feed the carb low speed fuel via the Pilot jet, and low needle. (This is 90% of the problems I find)

3) Verify the pop-off. On the 800 engines... it's generally around 32~37 psi.

A) I use spray cleaner, and compressed air to open any blockages internal.

B) The engien will run great at the stock adjustment settins.

C) 90% of the time, you don't need anything other than a cleaning. But if you need a kit... only use OEM Mikuni. The aftermarket parts suck.

And finally... if you really don't want to do them... I charge $65 per engine, plus shipping back. (and any parts if needed) PM me if you want me to look them over for you. But... I am more than happy to walk you thought it here for free. (if you want to tackle them)

 

[kilgorekb]

Here's a great guide for tuning your carbs after rebuild: CARBURETOR FINE TUNING GUIDE 1998 by Group K

 

[Kingmarine]

Well, been busy the last few days. New jack installed with swing away arm so I can put the boat straight into the garage along with new safety cables. My wife repainted the hitch and the part of the arm I cut off. She has also been painting the visor/windscreen which is looking much better than it did.

 

[Kingmarine]

Double Posted..

 

[Jims5543]

Your wife is a keeper!! Kudo's to her for being involved.

Mine is too, while our 1800 was perfect mechanically it sat, uncovered under a pine tree for a while. We scrubbed and scrubbed the interior and exterior to make her look good again.

My engines do the same thing, they are engines, no 2 are exactly the same, do not stress over it. I found my starboard engine needed a little throttle at idle to be happy. The port engine needed more throttle at 4500 RPM in order to match the starboard engine.

In other words I never saw the throttles in the same position all day.

We have turned the boat into family thing (as it should be) not only out on the water but clean up as well.

Here are the wife and kid cleaning it up after a day on the water. We still have a lot of cleaning to do, but she is coming along. Boat cover arrives tomorrow. So we are happy for that.

 

[Kingmarine]

Woot, HydroTurf installed just before Labor Day at the lake.