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1997 GTX... Runs, then stalls??? HELP?

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Wicked46

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I was running my 97 (787) GTX today and while I was at WOT it started to loose power. I let off and it stalled right away. It fired back up but it kept on stalling when i tried to let it idle. It feels like it was running on one cyl. When i babied it back to shore and shut it off it will not fire up again.
I brought her home on the trailor and it still will not stay running. Any idea what can be going on. Its got new NGK's and the carbs were done 2 years ago
 
sounds almost exact to what happened with my 96 gtx. I would start with a compression test to see if any damage has been caused internally. then get back here with the results. good luck. :)
Anthony
 
I would check the compression first, so you know what the internals of teh engine are doing. It sounds like you need to remove the carburetors and clean them. If you're careful and don't tear or damage the diaphragms you won't need to buy a rebuild kit. Pay attention to the internal filters too. I have seen carbs need cleaning every year.

Here is some info on compression test.
You'll need a compression tester. Go to Auto Zone. I think they sell for like $25.00. The compression gage, will screw in the cylinder head in place of the spark plugs. To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression gauge, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot and there is a problem. I hope this helps you.




Karl
 
Thank you guys! I will be doing a compression test tomorrow and I will post the results. Hopefully my issue will be fuel related.

Are there any common fuel issues with the 787's?
How hard is it to remove the carbs?
 
It isn't a big deal to remove the carbs. You will need some metric allen wrenches and some metric wrenches. Do you have a seadoo shop manual? If not here’s an idea for you. You could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and private use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too. Premium members get priority when it comes to getting quick detailed answers.
I hope this helps...it will save you a lot of service money.

Karl
 
Well here is the verdict.... Compression in cyl #1 was about 145'ish. Cyl #2 30psi :(

I found my problem. Where can I find a new motor to put in?
 
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