Hello guys, as far as I can tell and have read before, to change the oil on one of these PWC's, the rear assembly needs to be taken apart and the cone taken off. Apparently there is normally a screw in the cone for filling it back up with oil. On my 1997 GTI as far as I can tell by feeling the cone, there is no screw. Is there a seperate fill port for the oil on these models? Thanks
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1997 GTI Gear pump oil change?H
- Thread starter dgm5186
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Welcome to the seadoo forum dgm5186. Here is some info on the jet pump oil changing.
If you look into the nozzle in the rear of the ski you will see a cone with 3 screws and an oil filler allen screw.
To change it,
1) Take off 4 13 MM bolts holding nozzle and 10 MM bolt holding steering.
2) Get something to catch the old oil in, drain pan or margarine cup etc.... (don’t forget the nose plugs, the oil stinks to high heaven)
3) Remove the 3 8 mm bolts holding the cone on.
4) Pull the cone and drain the oil out. Prop the front of the trailer up as high as you can to get most of it out.
5) Inspect the rubber “o” ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.
6) Lower the front of the ski and add oil** to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.
7) Wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. Let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.
**NOTE: Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil
I hope this clearer's this issue up for you.
Karl
If you look into the nozzle in the rear of the ski you will see a cone with 3 screws and an oil filler allen screw.
To change it,
1) Take off 4 13 MM bolts holding nozzle and 10 MM bolt holding steering.
2) Get something to catch the old oil in, drain pan or margarine cup etc.... (don’t forget the nose plugs, the oil stinks to high heaven)
3) Remove the 3 8 mm bolts holding the cone on.
4) Pull the cone and drain the oil out. Prop the front of the trailer up as high as you can to get most of it out.
5) Inspect the rubber “o” ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.
6) Lower the front of the ski and add oil** to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.
7) Wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. Let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.
**NOTE: Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil
I hope this clearer's this issue up for you.
Karl
Cool, we'll be here if you get in a jam.
Karl
Karl
Alrighty! Good news, I got it all apart and now do see the set screw that I couldn't feel with my hands. It all came apart quite easy and looks like the previous owner changed the oil must have been right before we bought it. The O-ring on the cone looks to be in really good shape although the two smaller ones have some chunks out of them. Will any generic o-ring of the same size work or are these special? Anyways thanks again for the step by step process. It helped alot. Now to just get it all back together! 
~Dan:cheers:
~Dan:cheers:
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