-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
1997 GSX won't kick. Possible water.
- Thread starter Dale
- Start date
- Status
skirtchaser
New Member
You should be able to pull the plugs and crank the engine to get rid of any water.As far as the rough running issue....It might be carb rebuild time?
seadoolover
New Member
Water in engine.
YES.... the water was filling your exhaust system and introduced itself into your engine that way.. always flush with engine runing BEFORE hooking up water and remember to turn off tap THEN shut engine down. When the engine is running it is pumping the water out through the exhaust system to cool it down. It's an easy mistake to make... but unfortunatly can have a detrimental effect on your engine. As for water getting into the fuel system... possibly into the carby yes but not back into the tank itself. Usually it takes a good 10 /15 minutes of running the engine before it eliminates what water there still is inside after you've done your best to drain it out. If it doesn't right itself after that i'd definately be cleaning the carby's or getting them cleaned... premium membership allows you access to the manuals for this process if you'd like to try and tackle it yourself and save yourself heaps of $$$$..
YES.... the water was filling your exhaust system and introduced itself into your engine that way.. always flush with engine runing BEFORE hooking up water and remember to turn off tap THEN shut engine down. When the engine is running it is pumping the water out through the exhaust system to cool it down. It's an easy mistake to make... but unfortunatly can have a detrimental effect on your engine. As for water getting into the fuel system... possibly into the carby yes but not back into the tank itself. Usually it takes a good 10 /15 minutes of running the engine before it eliminates what water there still is inside after you've done your best to drain it out. If it doesn't right itself after that i'd definately be cleaning the carby's or getting them cleaned... premium membership allows you access to the manuals for this process if you'd like to try and tackle it yourself and save yourself heaps of $$$$..
Thanks
I guess that answers that. I figure it was like my boat and I always turned flush water on before cranking the engine. Everytime it kicks a little some water comes out the exhaust and then nothing. I pull the plugs and 9 times out of 10 there is a water/fuel mix connecting the gap. Can't get any fire like that. If I keep doing this do you think it will ever run? I have a shop manual on the way to help me locate the carbs for cleaning.
I guess that answers that. I figure it was like my boat and I always turned flush water on before cranking the engine. Everytime it kicks a little some water comes out the exhaust and then nothing. I pull the plugs and 9 times out of 10 there is a water/fuel mix connecting the gap. Can't get any fire like that. If I keep doing this do you think it will ever run? I have a shop manual on the way to help me locate the carbs for cleaning.
YES, you can hook up the hose to the seadoo and have them run for up to 5 minutes. Connect the hose and start the seadoo. Turn on the water after it is started. Turn off the water, than shut down the seadoo. This way it won't allow water to back flow into the engine through the exhaust due to no back pressure from the engine not running. The bearings and seals on the impeller jet pump are cooled from being in the water. When it is on the trailer it doesn't have that cooling effect so they will get hot after about 5 minutes.I pre start my seadoo's too, dry before I leave for the launch too. Just for a second or 2 to be sure it will start at launch. Peace of mind is worth lot.
You could try to tip the doo up to get the water to the exhaust away from the engine. If you want you could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too.
Karl
You could try to tip the doo up to get the water to the exhaust away from the engine. If you want you could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too.
Karl
I'm getting there!
Thanks Karl.
Each day I think I am a little closer. After a night of cylinder drying and plug drying I sprayed a little starter fluid in each cylinder and reinserted the plugs. It started and ran for like 5 seconds. After that nothing. I pulled the plugs and sure enough one plug gap was clogged with a brownish liquid which I assume is a mix of fuel and water. I put the plugs and cylinders back into drying mode na d wait another day. I am hoping one day it will keep running. My shop manual should be here any day.
Dale.
Thanks Karl.
Each day I think I am a little closer. After a night of cylinder drying and plug drying I sprayed a little starter fluid in each cylinder and reinserted the plugs. It started and ran for like 5 seconds. After that nothing. I pulled the plugs and sure enough one plug gap was clogged with a brownish liquid which I assume is a mix of fuel and water. I put the plugs and cylinders back into drying mode na d wait another day. I am hoping one day it will keep running. My shop manual should be here any day.
Dale.
seadoolover
New Member
Water in the engine
Keep going Dale, it will eventually run... and keep running... it takes awhile and a LOT of patience. Remember 10/15 minutes of running to clear all the water. It's not long after you get it up and riding that you'll know whether the engine is going to hold together or not.
Keep going Dale, it will eventually run... and keep running... it takes awhile and a LOT of patience. Remember 10/15 minutes of running to clear all the water. It's not long after you get it up and riding that you'll know whether the engine is going to hold together or not.
Dale don't let it set with water in it for long...it WILL rust and seize up solid. I would add a little oil and gas mix into the cylinders to get it fired up...keep at it till it fires up! if you give it a couple days it will be too late. Crank it with the plugs out and the spark plugs on the grounding studs, to keep from electrical problems. Than add the gas and oil mix ( couple oz to each cylinder). Install the plugs and try till it fires up. Run it on the hose for couple minutes to heat it up.
Karl
Karl
More success!!
Thanks guys. I poured a little oil in each cylinder when it first happened and have been working with it everyday. A little while ago was the best yet. I started with dry plugs and dry cylinders. I sprayed a touch of starter fluid in each cylinder and put the plugs in and connected up. It cranked right up and idled fine for 5 to 6 seconds until I hit the throttle and it died. I had another set of dry plugs so I tried it again with the same success. The last time it backfired so loud it almost deafened me. One thing that worries me is there is no crankcase oil. The guy I bought them from removed the oil pumps (Sea Doo recommendation) and now I just mix it. The old oil tank is still there and full. Is this the crankcase oil as well? Do I need to keep it topped off even though it no longer uses the oil to inject into the fuel system? These engines are very different than what I am use to.
Dale.
Thanks guys. I poured a little oil in each cylinder when it first happened and have been working with it everyday. A little while ago was the best yet. I started with dry plugs and dry cylinders. I sprayed a touch of starter fluid in each cylinder and put the plugs in and connected up. It cranked right up and idled fine for 5 to 6 seconds until I hit the throttle and it died. I had another set of dry plugs so I tried it again with the same success. The last time it backfired so loud it almost deafened me. One thing that worries me is there is no crankcase oil. The guy I bought them from removed the oil pumps (Sea Doo recommendation) and now I just mix it. The old oil tank is still there and full. Is this the crankcase oil as well? Do I need to keep it topped off even though it no longer uses the oil to inject into the fuel system? These engines are very different than what I am use to.
Dale.
Almost there!
I tried again for the third time tonight. I honestly believe if I had not tried to give it gas it would have continued idling. The plugs were again damp. I am really afraid of putting water to it at this point. How long can it safely idle with no cooling water?
Dale.
I tried again for the third time tonight. I honestly believe if I had not tried to give it gas it would have continued idling. The plugs were again damp. I am really afraid of putting water to it at this point. How long can it safely idle with no cooling water?
Dale.
seadoolover
New Member
crankcase oil
A lot of people disconnect the oil injection system due to a problem costing big $$ to fix and just premix. As long as you premix you should be fine...
You shouldn't really let it run for more than a minute without the water.. this is done to drain your wet exhaust after riding the ski. Don't leave the ski idling then walk away with the hose connected. If the ski stops for some reason the water will continue to fill your exhaust and your engine as you know already.
A lot of people disconnect the oil injection system due to a problem costing big $$ to fix and just premix. As long as you premix you should be fine...
You shouldn't really let it run for more than a minute without the water.. this is done to drain your wet exhaust after riding the ski. Don't leave the ski idling then walk away with the hose connected. If the ski stops for some reason the water will continue to fill your exhaust and your engine as you know already.
If you leave the oil injector disconnected it will be ok as long as you have the oil feed line still connected to the Rotary Valve Gear Shaft still in tact. I forget what model you have and if it has a rotary valve in it or not...If you do not have the line attached it will self destruct the engine.
Karl
Karl
Same Problem
I am having the same problem. I turned it over on Monday and didn't know I had to turn it over a certain way ( I dont know if it was turned over right) and had to have it towed in (under 15mph) because it was about to sink and it still will not start. I have changed plugs and tipped it... a little water comes out each time but still no start. The plugs are dry and I am getting a spark. I have only owned for about a week and don't know what else I can do. I can not afford to send it to the shop. Any suggestions would be quite helpful!
I am having the same problem. I turned it over on Monday and didn't know I had to turn it over a certain way ( I dont know if it was turned over right) and had to have it towed in (under 15mph) because it was about to sink and it still will not start. I have changed plugs and tipped it... a little water comes out each time but still no start. The plugs are dry and I am getting a spark. I have only owned for about a week and don't know what else I can do. I can not afford to send it to the shop. Any suggestions would be quite helpful!
Juliann, I would spray some wd-40 in the cylinders to displace the water. Make sure the spark plug caps are on the grounding post to prevent any electrical problems. Keep turning it over to get the water out of the engine. You could use a little gas and some 2 stroke oil and pour like 2 oz in each cylinder to try to get it to fire up. Make sure the fuel tank and oil injector tank aren't contaminated with water or it will have to be drained. Time is of the essence. Get it started. Keep us posted.
Karl
Karl
are you guys cranking the engine with the plugs out? this is the most effective way to blow out water. make sure you put plug wires on the grounding lugs. spray WD-crank for about 15 seconds. spray-crank. this isn't very hard on the starter because it spinning with no load. hold throttle open while cranking. it helps suck water out of crank case.
- Status
