1997 GSX 787, RAVE Valves/Connecting a Hose to run off lake??

[Tfast]

I did a post on the RAVE valves a couple of weeks ago. Cleaned them but still don't seem to open readily (they need the throttle released and quickly opened all the way to actuate). I believe there are kits to "rebuild them" (bellows and o-rings I think). That looks pretty simple. Should I go ahead and do that next? Where might I get the kits?

I have also seen that some people have (and suggest) drilling a hole in the RAVE cover so you can see that they indeed do actuate and when. I am thinking I will do that unless there is a reason I should not. Any opinions on that? What size hole (looks like about 5/8" to me). And, with that in mind, how do you connect water to these to run them out of the lake? Our old Yamaha Waverunner has a nice set up to do this but I don't see any place or way to connect water to these (I have 2, new to me, of the above mentioned "97 GSXs).

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Tfast]

I will add that the red adjustment caps on the 2 RAVEs are screwed all the way in. In my reading on this model and yaar the factory (and suggested) setting seems to be the opposite of that - all the way out to flush with the top. As stiff as the spring on the top side of the bellows is and the relatively long travel of that red adjuster I could see how that might make the RAVE not open as readily as it should. Could that be my issue? I believe the RAVEs had been "rebuilt" by a mechanic at the lake and he may have adjusted them all the way in like, I gather, some of the other Rotax PWC engines.

 

[Grim]

Personally, I would rebuild them and hold off on the drilling. I try to keep things as OEM as possible though. It wont hurt for sure because it is a close system, to the cap anyways. A far as to where the red caps need to be. I would start at flush and run it some to see if it transfer nicely. Its trial and error but you can tweak it to your preference, but it will take time to do that. It should kick in around 4000 RPMS, just as a guide.

 

[Tfast]

Thanks for the reply Grim. I do plan to do just that the next time I go to the lake. Do you know if there is a way to connect a hose so I can run them safely at home some?

 

[mikidymac]

Set the RAVE adjusters flush with the housing.

There is no reason to connect these to a hose unless you are flushing salt water out. You don't want to run them on the hose for very long as you can still burn up the driveshaft seal.
The hose connection is at the back of the pump and is threaded for a garden hose.

 

[Tfast]

Thanks mikid. I backed the adjusters out to flush (from all the way in) and ran it briefly. Not in the water and no load so hard to tell but it did seem to run much cleaner on top.

On the water front, I don't want to run them much or for long but a little and would like water running through them when I do. There's what looks like a hose fitting on the back of the pump and also a pipe that comes out with threads inside it that are about the size of a hose. I assume the correct one is the hose type fitting? It's not an open passage or hole - there's a solid black plastic behind it that does not push in. Is there passages around the edge for the water to go by or does something need to be removed for water to get in?

 

[mikidymac]

It should be open at the end with a small hose on the inside.
You are fine to start and run them without the hose for at least 30 seconds, just don't let the engine get too hot to touch.

There is really nothing to gain by running them on the hose, it is just a flush fitting to get salt and debris out of the cooling system, not to run them out of the water.

One word of caution, never have the hose water on with the engine off or you will flood the internal engine components in water.

 

[Tfast]

Understood and thanks very much for the input. My best approach is to get it on the lake an mess with it. I likely won't run them with a hose connected but nice to know I can if I ever need to.

I appreciate the input and will probably be back once I get them on the lake (and inevitably have some sort of an issue).

Thanks!!

 

[Lifebreaks2]

I'm having the same problem with my 97 gsx swap into my HX.
I've done everything on a perfect motor. The solution is kinda bs.
It turns out that the raves on the 97 gsx are faulty along with the rave housing. The fix is to buy new valve sliders with the notches and the updated rave housing. They removed a gas bypass in the housing for more pressure and the notches in the valves so they don't stick as easy. Seadoo made an article about this. Hope this helps!

 

[mikidymac]

I'm having the same problem with my 97 gsx swap into my HX.
I've done everything on a perfect motor. The solution is kinda bs.
It turns out that the raves on the 97 gsx are faulty along with the rave housing. The fix is to buy new valve sliders with the notches and the updated rave housing. They removed a gas bypass in the housing for more pressure and the notches in the valves so they don't stick as easy. Seadoo made an article about this. Hope this helps!

Yes but even that is hit and miss. Some work perfectly fine forever with the non-slotted raves and others will only run correctly with the slotted ones. Another Seadoo mystery.