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1997 Challenger, sitting 2 years

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vilord

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I'm in the process of buying a '97 challenger with the single rotax 787/800. The boat has been sitting in the sun for the past 2-3 years, and needs lots of interior work, the battery is pulled and the air cleaner cover is laying next to the engine. The cover of the power distro panel is also removed, hopefully the previous owner didn't mess about in there too much.
I'm told it was in the water running great before being stored, I'm hoping the engine isn't seized/blown.
It has a hole in the instrument panel below the red start? button. Is that where the ignition cutoff switch would go?
The price is right so its worth it despite the issues. 500 bucks! :D

Before I fire up the engine what should I do first? Drain fuel tank refill w/new fuel, new battery, check/replace plugs... What else is suggested? I don't think anything was drained before it was "stored", but no freezing temps so lack of winterization shouldn't be an issue unless fuel lines/fittings disintegrated.

Any ideas/help would be great. Thank you!

Lastly, what 2-cycle oil is correct (mineral or synth), and what should it look/feel like?
 
that hole may be for choke, or landyard post...?Sit'n for 2 yrs, seals may be dried out?, or pistons now siezed/rusted to sleeve walls? Oil wise, run the synthetic...
 
I'll try turning the motor by hand if i can find a way to... what does the proper synthetic look like so i can tell if thats what was in there (color etc)?
 
You can try and turn the motot by...

First locate the GREY, plastic PTO/Flywheel cover that goes over the "drive shaft"

Loosen the 2 (one on each side) wing nuts. (just loosen,NO need to remove)

Remove both spark plugs.

Then you should be able to turn the PTO/Flywheel by hand.

Good Luck, and let us know how it works out for ya, also great boat at an even better price, and you should be able to find ALOT of stuff for your boat on e-bay....
 
Okay, boat is in my garage :D And its only an 18 foot deep garage! This boat is awesome!

Tried pulling the gray cover, had to remove the wing nuts *all the way* otherwise they'd keep the cover on, the cover has no slots, just holes for the studs.

Pulled the spark plugs (they were only spun in, not even finger tight), grabbed the drive shaft, and tried to turn it. No go. Ugh... Well maybe I didn't have enough leverage... grabbed the white thing attached to the drive shaft (flywheel?? harmonic balancer?) and voila, engine turns with very little effort, no strange noises.

But there are leaves jammed in around the white thing. Is this normal? I'm going to clean them all out during the week or next weekend, but I'm just a bit confused now.

Stuff it looks like I need now:
-small cover that goes in the middle of the engine cover's cover (about 2 feet around)
-re-upholstered seats all around
-new bow seat bottom
-new suicide seat bottom
-replacement hinges on the forward bulkhead cover (plasticrap)
-new oh-shit lanyard and a plastic nut to hold the base in place (thats what that hole was in the dash)
-flush fuel tank
-repair minor wiring issues in engine bay
-replace blower motor (bearing shot)
-clean and test bilge pump
-new battery
-fiberglass and gelcoat repair on bow underside at the front of the V (what is this called?
-exhaust exit gasket
-cover on aft starboard underside (what is this port for? Is this the bilge pump exit? If so i'll leave it open :D )

If anyone has ideas of where I can get these things, I'd be appreciative! Dealers are always pricey!

Also, who can tell me a good way to flush the fuel tank? Previous owner suggested pulling the tank, but I think the exhaust and/or engine are in the way...
 
rite on, dude...my boat sat for few yrs, I syphoned what i can ,then topped it off, replace the fuuuel lines, get rebuild kit for carbs, the leafs, gardners' can was full...But, dont worry about the seats..etc, anything that will make it run. Get it runn'n, and run'n good, then get that other crap....:cheers:
 
Thanks for that. Exactly what I needed :D

Revised list to get it on the water before the summer ends:
-new lanyard and a plastic nut to hold the base in place
-flush fuel tank
-repair minor wiring issues in engine bay
-clean and test bilge pump
-new battery
-repair trailer (6 stripped lugs, no winch, no spare, axle barely attached to frame on right side)

I'm so glad the wheel didn't fall off driving it home, had no idea the lugs were this bad!
 
boat

i also just bought a 1996 sportster and it has been sitting for about one year wondering if i should watse time trying to get started or just have it replaced and one have any input
 
read back in this thread, check if the motor turns by hand with the spark plugs pulled... if it turns, good bet it will be fixable. Carbs may need rebuilt, but replacing the engine might not give you new carbs anyways, and no reason to drop 700-1000 on a new engine when the one you've got is fine. Good luck, let us know what you find!
 
I charged the battery that came with the boat from 04 removed the plugs and the motor turns over very easyly I put the plugs back in and motor turned over couple times while holding ignition down but then stops after a couple rotations and beeps 4 times what should I try and do next also the head of the wire where it goes on the spark plug pulled off do I need to order new wires or can if just be pushed on also what r sites to order cheap parts thanks so much for everyones help can't wait to get on the water
 
Tazwayne, you might be better off with a new thread, I'm not sure what the problem might be. If you go premium (I'm sure somebody will eventually suggest it) you can look up the 4-beep code in your respective shop manual... it might be some sort of timing or crank sensor issue, but I really have no idea myself...
 
thanks for your help i have the shop manuel and i will look up the beeping as for good websites for cheap parts any help there buddy
 
Hmm... I'm not sure yet, i found one site, seadoosource.com i think, but the selection of parts was limited. I need a few things too, for example the rope compartment bulkhead is missing, and the dealer wants about 200 bucks for it... Or how about 50 bucks for the latch on the front compartment! No thanks, not for a piece of plastic.
Let me know if you find any good deals!
 
I just found that 4-beep code. If the shifter is not in neutral, or if the neutral safety switch is not functioning, it will not start. This is in the electrical -> MPEM section of the shop manual.

Additionally, if you get that 4-beep code, move around the shift lever and listen for beeps. If you hear a single beep, you've got the lever in a position where it'll crank.
 
Yay! Fired up the engine sounded... well... loud, uneven. Is this normal?
Also, tried to rev up and it would bog down and sound like it was skipping... I'll change out the plugs and check the fuel filter... I'm still hoping that I don't have to rebuild the carbs yet :)
 
good job, man...replace the fuel lines, cut the plug wires back 1/4in from boots, then pop boots back on, finally, REBUILD them(carbs), worth the 50buks..
 
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