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1997 Challenger Fuel Baffle Repair or Replacement

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Ironhorse

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Hello all, I have a 1997 challenger 1800, my issue is, I cant find a replacement fuel baffle anywhere this is my (part number - 204560045) It shows item had been discontinued or obsolete. I have tested the baffle and I know I get proper ohm readings from empty to full correctly when testing, however I also tested fuel gauge and I know it works, something is wrong with the communication between the gauge and baffle. Is there someone I can send my baffle for repairs or is there a place that can get me the hard to find part number I have listed above. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thank you in advanced.
Chris
 
Yes, the baffle was removed then tested. The resistance changed accordingly. Below is the process I had used to check for the gauge and baffle.
( Purple wire) wire from the engine harness is connected to the IGN or I Terminal on the gauge. The negative or ground terminal of the gauge is connected to the boats grounding system. The S or Sender terminal is connected to the Fuel tank sender. The fuel tank must also have a connection to the boats grounding system To troubleshoot your boats fuel gauge and sender, Do the following. After insuring that your wiring between the fuel sender on the tank and the connections on the fuel gauge are correct. Turn the Ign Key to "ON" and Using a jumper wire, ground the center or S terminal on the fuel sender at the tank If your fuel gauge jumps to the FULL reading, the problem is in the fuel tank sender. If your fuel gauge does not move, proceed to the next step. Using a test light, with the key in the on position. Check for power at the I or Ignition terminal on the gauge. If Power is "ON" at gauge terminal, ground "S" terminal and "G" terminal and check gauge reading. If reading moves to full then you have a wiring problem between gauge and sender,otherwise gauge is defective. If the power is "OFF" at the gauge terminal, check for ground by connecting tester to Ignition switch "RED" terminal and to the "G" Terminal on the gauge. If the ground is good, use a jumper to power gauge "I" terminal and retest gauge.
 
If the float is bad it would not change the resistance, so the gauge would not move off of empty, personally I don't bother with resistance checks, pull the baffle, reconnect the sender wire and flip the gauge upside down, the gauge should go to full, if it does the float is bad, if it doesn't the sender or the gauge is bad.
 
Had the same issue with my fuel gauge on my 97 Sportster. Loosen the large clamp on the baffle, pull it out of the tank and follow the advice supplied by WFO Speedracer to test the float. I was able to pull the baffle without disconnecting any of the lines which made the project very simple. If your float is the issue you can buy a replacement on EBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Doo-Fue...GTX-RX-XP-GTI-GTS-SP-SPI-SPX-GS-/121279659119

Once received, I popped the end cap off the bottom of the baffle with a small flat head screwdriver, slid out the old float and inserted the new one. The end cap was snapped back into place and it took literally 10 minutes for the total job because I did not have to disconnect any of the lines from the baffle. It is rare that a fix goes so smoothly so I felt blessed when everything worked out so well.

FYI: One of the magnets on the float had fallen off causing the float to malfunction. As soon as I replaced the bad part with the new one, bingo, I had a working fuel gauge.
 
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I have been working nightshifts and have not tried any of your great suggestions, I will let you know the outcome soon. Thank you again.
 
This message to wfo, in your post, you mentioned to flip the gauge upside down, did you mean, flip the baffle upside down and check fuel guage? Thanks
 
Update, I just pulled out the baffle, removed the hoses but left the wire attached, flipped baffle upside down and fuel gauge went from empty to full., then flipped bag the other way and it went back to empty. So I guess what this is telling me is that my float is bad? Both magnets are still attached to the float. Suggestions? Thanks
 
I tested the float in a glass jar and the float sank, pulled out the float and shook it and it was half full of fuel. Going to pick up new float tomorrow. Thanks guys.
 
So I installed the new float, set it back in the tank, pushed the start button with out key plugged in, which allows power to the fuel gauge fur 30 seconds, and but the gauge with go to 1/4 to1/2 even tho the tank is almost full.
Not sure why it's not reading higher? Any suggestions?
 
My Challenger 1800 is about 1/4 tank off as well. A lot of Sea Doo boat owners have the same problem. I have learned to live with it. When my boat fuel gauge reaches 1/4 full, I know that I still have just under 1/2 tank and when it reaches 1/8 tank I start looking for a marina to fill up. :)
 
I didn't realize other challenger model owners were having the same issue, I suppose if I don't find an answer, I'll be doing the same thing.
 
I don't know what is causing your issue but the sensor has only two wires and read resistance, you could possibly wire up a rheostat inline and find a resistance that makes it read full then record that resistance value and source a resistor with that value to put inline and fool the gauge.
 
So I removed the new float and it appeared to be hanging up inside the baffle, do I sanded down the new float and it moved freely inside the baffle, I then submerged the baffle inside a container and hooked up ohm meter and filled and drained and the ohms changed from 1.5 to 90 ohms, do it looks like it would work correctly, but I put it back into the tank and it now reads 1/2 full instead of full. So it increased more than the last time at 1/4 full. So not sure what's going on now. Any suggestions?
 
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