1996 XP - help removing engine/driveshaft

[shattered00]

Today I tried to remove one of my 787 engines so I could get to a stuck starter screw and to prep the engine for a rebuild. I had removed the 95 xp without any major issues and figured this would be similar since it was a related engine. I now feel that I have bitten off more than I can chew and screwed up a bunch today.

I got the engine unmounted and loosened all of the clamps on the driveshaft boots. I screwed up and removed something at the front of the engine towards the mag side and oil poured out everywhere (pic 1). I removed the jet pump and then tried to remove the impeller housing but it would not budge. I also pulled the cone off of the impeller housing thinking that I had to remove it and oil poured out of that onto the ride plate, me, and the garage floor before I could get it back on.

I then found out that there are two homemade tools used to remove the impeller housing that are referenced in the Clymer shop manual. I found one of them online for $140 on ebay in Canada, but that seems pretty steep. I then searched and found either the "tree" method or the "2X4" method.

Question 1) Are the OEM clamps that I removed from the driveshaft boots replaceable with the screw on type that are so much easier to deal with or do I need to use the OEM clamps when I replace them?

Question 2) Would y'all recommend buying this impeller house removal tool since I will have one more ski to use it on assuming it gives me as much problems or should I use the 2X4 method?

Question 3) If I use the 2X4 method, do I cut it to where it just touches the beginning of the black exhaust port on the hull (from side to side) and use smaller cut 2X4 pieces as spacers since I don't want to go through removing the cone again? Also, is it okay to have only 2 holes in the 2X4 or do I need two 2X4s so that I can reach all four holes where the jet pump would normal screw in (for equal pressure)?

Question 4) Pic 2 is of something I found in the bottom of the hull before the oil spill. It broke off from something from a prior owner. Any ideas as to what it is?

Question 5) Pic 4. Did I remove everything I need to in order to pull it out once I get the impeller housing free? I have not yet removed the three hoses behind the VTS per the manual, but I will.

Question 6) Pic 6 and 7. This plug fell holes first into the oil. Oil is now blocking a few of the holes. Is this plug ruined or do you think I could clean it out?

Thank you for any help. I do apologize for the excess questions. I feel absolutely overwhelmed, but I really want to get these skis up and running before summer with at least some semblance of cleanliness internally. Maybe I am aiming too high and should just focus on getting them running first. I did take pics of everything before disassembling but there are so many more parts I am not sure that I will take it down to the bare hull even though I know I need to because of the oil.

 

[Ankeneyou]

In the first pic, you removed the oil feed line from the tank to the oil pump. You need to use hose pinchers or drain the oil tank forst. If you don't known what kind of oil is in the tank I'd recommend draining and cleaning the tank while u are in there as well as replacing the oil lines and filter.

There will be 2 more oil lines going from the tank to each side of the RV cavity on the engine which will leak oil as well.

 

[Ankeneyou]

Q1: Yes you can replace with regular worm gear clamps but they must be 100% stainless.

Q2: I wouldn't. You need to figure out if the last guy used silicone around the entire pump or just at the top where the cooling hoses go through. Hopefully you only see silicone at the top and it should be pretty easy to remove the pump. I leave the pump together with nozzle and all and use a big spud/breaker bar to pry between the trim ring and back rub rail of the ski. If it's not fully sealed with silicone it should pop right off.

If you see silicone all the way around the pump you are in for a challenge. You may need to make a puller or use the tree trick.

 

[racerxxx]

That looks like an aluminum pump, I'm willing to bet they loaded the front with silicone.

 

[wfo speedracer]

You can make a tool with some long bolts and a 2x4 or a piece of angle with holes drilled into it, you screw the bolts into the exit nozzle holes and the pump will break free. You can also try to get behind the pump ears with a wonderbar to break the pump free, just don't get carried away and slowly work each corner loose.

 

[Ankeneyou]

Q3: I've never had to do any more than a pry bar.

Q4: possibly part of an old battery post?

Q5: need to make sure both RV oil lines are removed, then remove the positive cable from the starter and negative from the block.

Q6: it will be fine. Clean it out then use dielectric grease when you put everything back together.

 

[shattered00]

I finally got one of the engines out along with the starter screw that was stuck. I want to thank you all for helping me.

 

[mikidymac]

Nice work!

I wouldn't worry too much about that starter. It looks like a typical aftermarket POS. Spend the money on an OEM one even if you have to rebuild it. The brushes are typically what go bad and can be replaced for under $20.