1996 stalls after running like a raped ape

[Retselnos]

Hi all. I've waited to become a member, to research and read all I can before I post my problem. Thank you in advance for your time. Here's my problem. 1996 Bombardier GTS with the 587 engine. Basic lanyard cut off switch. So... Bought this machine about a month ago. It needed a starter, so I replaced it, fired it up on the trailer and sounded like a bad ass 587. Now I take it to my local lake (Puddingstone) where I test all my boats, start it up and it runs like a raped ape for two laps roughly a mile, then stalls, no warning, no sputtering, just stops. No beeping code. So I try to restart it and it fires right back up and its on and cracking for just about 100 yards. Same thing it stalls, no beeps. So I start it again and pretty much just feather the throttle to get to th dock. Open seat doesn't look or smell funny, so I load it up and go home. I read, and read, and read and dont find a definitive diagnosis, but do some things that were suggestions like, change ALL fuel lines with clear see through lines, cleaned fuel selector valve, installed brand new fuel filter, took carb apart and cleaned the tiny filter inside, cleaned out fuel tank and filled with fresh fuel, ven change ALL the oil injector lines with new filters and primed the system. Let me say before I did all this, it fired right up on the trailer and reved up like a big dog. Anyways long story short now, go back to lake and it runs like a raped ape again, but for only a half a lap, and dies again, however... I hear beeping, not a continuous beep like for over heating but a continuous beep...beep...beep...beep. It fires right back and I use low throttle to limp back to the dock. Trailer it and fire it up to empty any water out and it sounds like a big dog once again. Can't fined any interpretation on the beeps ANYWHERE so... where should I go from here. Again thank you for your time and patients. I'm eagerly awaiting your professional inputs.

 

[POPPS]

You cannot rebuild the fuel selector, I don't recall, unless there is a new rebuild kit.
You can go on line to find the "beep codes."
Have you ruled out the battery? and poor connections?
Have you done a compression test?,,,its rare, but possible, that under load you have a parial seizure,,,it gets hot and died
S, it cools,,and restarts..etc..happened to us once racing...
Also, take the seat off, and see if it does it, you could have an exhaust leak that suffocates the motor
Pull the plugs, does the crank rotate feely?
Run the fuel line to the carb directly from the on pickup to bypass the petcock

 

[Retselnos]

Didn't want the initial post to be too long but yes I've done all of that and then some. I didn't say I rebuilt the selector switch I cleaned it. Both cylinders are 150 psi exactly. Checked for exhaust leaks, none. Thanks for your reply. Oh... Can you leave a link on those beep codes? I would love to visit it.

 

[KyleW2]

Clear fuel line? Swap that out to black automotive. The clear stuff likely isn't fuel resistant.

You can't clean the selector switch. There are rubber parts inside that get eaten up (especially if you used any kind of carb cleaner in it). Replace it

 

[Retselnos]

Well I'm not a knuckle head not to sound facetious but the clear FUEL RESISTANT lines are for a reason, I want to see the fuel running in them without air bubbles etc. And no I didn't use carb cleaner on the selector valve, I used compressed air @ about 50 psi as to not blow out the seals. Come on guys, give me something challenging and real. I really do appreciate the input though, really. I'm just frustrated. How many beep codes could possibly come from an analog circuit? There's how many sensors on the 5817? Two? Maybe 3? Oh yeah let me add this to, my bad. The electrical test the factory service manual has you do regarding the over temp sensor when they have you ground out the lead to verify the beeper works properly, i.e. 1 long continues beep? It doesn't beep at all. The sensor isn't defective, but somewhere before that circuit something is going on, right? Like in the electrical box? Sorry I didn't give this info earlier, much love guys help a mutter f**cka out. Lol

 

[KyleW2]

Well I'm not a knuckle head not to sound facetious but the clear FUEL RESISTANT lines are for a reason, I want to see the fuel running in them without air bubbles etc. And no I didn't use carb cleaner on the selector valve, I used compressed air @ about 50 psi as to not blow out the seals. Come on guys, give me something challenging and real. I really do appreciate the input though, really. I'm just frustrated. How many beep codes could possibly come from an analog circuit? There's how many sensors on the 5817? Two? Maybe 3? Oh yeah let me add this to, my bad. The electrical test the factory service manual has you do regarding the over temp sensor when they have you ground out the lead to verify the beeper works properly, i.e. 1 long continues beep? It doesn't beep at all. The sensor isn't defective, but somewhere before that circuit something is going on, right? Like in the electrical box? Sorry I didn't give this info earlier, much love guys help a mutter f**cka out. Lol

Did not mean to come across the wrong way on the fuel lines if I did, you would be surprised how many people buy the cheap clear lines from the store and use them for fuel!

I’ll let someone else chime in on the electrical stuff. If you don’t have the service manual already, it’s free online and probably has some good info on the electrical testing and what the codes mean for your year model.
Edit: Nevermind, I missed your comment about the service manual

 

[etemplet]

You said you installed a new fuel filter? Did you put an aftermarket INLINE fuel filter on the system? If so... throw it away and your ski will be fine. Ask me how I know?? Good Luck !!

My 587 did the exact same thing as yours. Let it sit overnight and it will run for 1/2 hour or more the next day then get worse and worse finally only idle.

 

[Retselnos]

You said you installed a new fuel filter? Did you put an aftermarket INLINE fuel filter on the system? If so... throw it away and your ski will be fine. Ask me how I know?? Good Luck !!

My 587 did the exact same thing as yours. Let it sit overnight and it will run for 1/2 hour or more the next day then get worse and worse finally only idle.

Okay so what are the beeps telling you? That its a fuel condition.

 

[Retselnos]

Did not mean to come across the wrong way on the fuel lines if I did, you would be surprised how many people buy the cheap clear lines from the store and use them for fuel!

I’ll let someone else chime in on the electrical stuff. If you don’t have the service manual already, it’s free online and probably has some good info on the electrical testing and what the codes mean for your year model.
Edit: Nevermind, I missed your comment about the service manual

Hey brother you didn't do a thing wrong, I've just been frustrated. I really appreciate your reading.

 

[artr]

The 96 shop manual describes beep codes under the DESS section of electrical. Your ski is not DESS but 8 short beeps indicate a problem with MPEM memory and to replace the MPEM. I don't recall seeing a place that describes beep codes for non DESS skis. Based on that you may want to look at all the connections to the MPEM and make sure they are clean, tight and dry.
The problem with testing the overheat beeper function may be because you need to have the ski running when you ground the lead from the sensor. The beeper has 2 wires going to it, 12V from the MPEM and the wire attached to the sensor (which also runs into the MPEM. You can test those signals at a 2 pin connector that is probably under the cowl in the front that has purple-tan stripe and a tan-black stripe wires on it.

 

[Retselnos]

The 96 shop manual describes beep codes under the DESS section of electrical. Your ski is not DESS but 8 short beeps indicate a problem with MPEM memory and to replace the MPEM. I don't recall seeing a place that describes beep codes for non DESS skis. Based on that you may want to look at all the connections to the MPEM and make sure they are clean, tight and dry.
The problem with testing the overheat beeper function may be because you need to have the ski running when you ground the lead from the sensor. The beeper has 2 wires going to it, 12V from the MPEM and the wire attached to the sensor (which also runs into the MPEM. You can test those signals at a 2 pin connector that is probably under the cowl in the front that has purple-tan stripe and a tan-black stripe wires on it.

Thank you, I have read the MPEM section and I agree it must be the MPEM I will dig into it this afternoon. Might just replace it without doing too much other work. I will let you know if it works or not. Thanks again.

 

[mikidymac]

Without DESS, I don't think you have any beep codes.

Don't just start randomly changing parts and a lot of people have not had much luck with aftermarket MPEM's, so just a heads up.

 

[Ckrawiec]

Okay so what are the beeps telling you? That its a fuel condition.

Assuming you have the DESS system...the beeps have nothing to do with the fuel systems.....see page 08-06-2 of the 1996 Service manual for the DESS beep descriptions.

Another thing to check, just for fun.....if the ski runs then stops after a while......try cracking the gas cap.....strange things happen if the fuel system is sucking a vacuum....the check valve(s) could be plugged.

Do a quick test on the charging system.....with ski running and at idle....the battery should be at 14.1 VDC thereabouts.....if the voltage is bouncing around the rectifier is probably fubar....the ski is sucking juice out of the battery and the rectifier (and/or magneto) is not replacing the juice so the battery will eventually poop out.

 

[mikidymac]

Assuming you have the DESS system...the beeps have nothing to do with the fuel systems.....see page 08-06-2 of the 1996 Service manual for the DESS beep descriptions.

Another thing to check, just for fun.....if the ski runs then stops after a while......try cracking the gas cap.....strange things happen if the fuel system is sucking a vacuum....the check valve(s) could be plugged.

Do a quick test on the charging system.....with ski running and at idle....the battery should be at 14.1 VDC thereabouts.....if the voltage is bouncing around the rectifier is probably fubar....the ski is sucking juice out of the battery and the rectifier (and/or magneto) is not replacing the juice so the battery will eventually poop out.

His doesn't have DESS.

The gas cap check is a good idea.

At idle you will not have 14V as the charging system will not be able to provide that voltage at idle. The max voltage of 13.5-14V has to be checked at around 4,500 rpm.

 

[Ckrawiec]

His doesn't have DESS.

The gas cap check is a good idea.

At idle you will not have 14V as the charging system will not be able to provide that voltage at idle. The max voltage of 13.5-14V has to be checked at around 4,500 rpm.

My '96 GTX at idle (3200 rpm on the trailer on the hose) sits at a steady 14.1 VDC (with a newly installed rectifier). Just checked and verified that, this past weekend. I was surprised myself to tell the truth, but happy to see a steady voltage as opposed to the bouncing voltage.

 

[mikidymac]

My '96 GTX at idle (3200 rpm on the trailer on the hose) sits at a steady 14.1 VDC (with a newly installed rectifier). Just checked and verified that, this past weekend. I was surprised myself to tell the truth, but happy to see a steady voltage as opposed to the bouncing voltage.

Sounds like you got a good rectifier there.

Typical set idle speed is 3,000 out of the water 1,500 in, not 3200 but that is splitting hairs and it is personal preference also.

The ones I have tested are at about 12.5V at idle and don't start to charge until around 3,500-4,500 rpm. That is OEM and aftermarket but I haven't tired the "upgrade" 4-tec ones.

 

[Ckrawiec]

Sounds like you got a good rectifier there.

Typical set idle speed is 3,000 out of the water 1,500 in, not 3200 but that is splitting hairs and it is personal preference also.

The ones I have tested are at about 12.5V at idle and don't start to charge until around 3,500-4,500 rpm. That is OEM and aftermarket but I haven't tired the "upgrade" 4-tec ones.

I'm ballparking the 3200 rpms, I wasn't actually looking at the digital readout, just the tach meter...so 3K-3.2K....at least I'm in the right neighborhood out of the water (AND it's running - praise Jesus).

This is the 3rd rectifier I've tried and this one actually works.....fingers crossed it stays that way for at least this season!