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1996 Speedster New Guy, looking for guidance.

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Y2k14JK

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Hi everyone! I recently picked up a '96 speedster as aforementioned. Overall it's in decent shape, but I knew before I bought it that I would be getting my hands dirty. First time boat owner, so forgive all my newb questions. I've hit that point in my life when I'm ready to leadrn about boats, and I think this will be a fun project. Seats are in pretty good shape except for one little spot, but they will definitely last a season or so. I'm already looking into some hydropturf for the swim deck, and probably the interior itself. For the background, this particular boat had been sitting this year. Owner had changed shifts at work and no longer found time to enjoy it. I picked it up for a good price after some realizing we had met each other previously. Anyway, after charging the battery, I took it out to put it in the water and find out exactly what I will be dealing with. Here are some observations-
1. Post beeped immediately after attaching the lanyard, no pause whatsoever. PO did mention that it would occasionally shut off, so I'm planning on cleaning both the post and lanyard.
2. Engines fired right up after making sure there was gas and oil.
3. Shifted just fine from neutral-forward-reverse.
4. Port engine throttle was completely floppy - more on that later
5. All gauges were haywire except the tachs. Speedo did not work, fuel guage read empty, oil light was on.
6. Boat would accelerate to about 10mph, but rev much farther than that without accelerating anymore. Cavitation if I understand that correctly.
7. It didn't stall on me during the 10 minute test run I used.
8. It has been converted to a full sized battery that looks relatively new.
9. trailer is in good shape.
10. Ready to LEARN, and have already started.

Ok, so now on to the fun part!
Thanks to this great forum, after giving the boat a thorough cleaning except for the engine compartment, I started in with the throttle. Opened it up, found the friction screw, and BAM! First repair is completed.
I also replaced the bulbs on the trailer lights, made sure that the boat lights are working, and familiarized myself with the overall layout. A small added bonus is that the boat did come with the shop manual.

Next thing I did was open up the engine compartment. It's definitely dirty down there, so first question - What do you guys like to use to clean this? Is there a safe spray that can just be rinsed off, or do I need to protect all electrical connections and power wash?

Also noticed that the struts for the cover are shot, so planning on replacing those with the 130lb variety that I came across somewhere here on the forum.

Next thing I did was remove the driveline covers to inspect the carbon seals. It appears as though they are already pushed too far forward, so I want to know exactly what I'm looking at. Does this mean the carbon seals are completely worn out? What do i need to replace?

Next thing I'm going to check is the fuses and then see what I can do about getting the gauges working properly. Any help and guidance is greatly appreciated, and thank you for the forum! Oh, and I'm Adam :)
seadoo port markup.JPGseadoo starboard markup.JPG
 
To clean the bilge... use Super Clean. Spray it in... let it sit for a little while... and hose it out. DO NOT use a pressure washer. It will cause more problems by getting water past seals.

I can see the carbon seal is sitting to one side. It's warn. Push the stainless ring to toward the transom... compressing the boot. You should see a clip... or even what's left of an old O-ring. The original design used an O-ring to hold the stainless ring in place. It was dumb, and would break eventually... releasing the pressure on the seal. The metal clip is the new replacement.

Anyway... some drive shafts have multiple clip spots. Push the stainless ring and if you see a second clip spot... use it. That will solve the cavitation. If not... replace the carbon ring and boot.
 
Alright! After weeks of rain and work, I was finally able to get some things done with my little boat. Super Clean worked great to take off 85% of everything with just spray and rinse. Planning on using a brush to agitate some of the more stubborn spots, but it is definitely looking better. I ordered a couple of heavy duty carbon seal kits from OSD Marine and tore into it on Sunday. Upon closer inspection, the flex boots were actually in great shape, so I'll keep them on hand. Unfortunately, as soon as I pulled the driveshaft in the port engine, the skies grew very dark and I quickly covered all and cleaned up my tools before the rain started. What I found was that the wear ring on this pump has started to disintegrate, and the driveshaft has me a bit concerned. The rear is rusty, which obviously indicates a seal went. Is the hour glass shape normal for the driveshaft ends?

I figure if one side is in this shape, chances are the starboard is the same way. I'm planning on ordering the following, and just want to see if I am missing anything? I noticed OSD has a master jet pump rebuild kit as well. Since I've got it torn down this much and will be replacing wear rings, should I opt for that as well?


Anyway, here's my parts list :
2x 271000516 Impeller Boots
2x 271000290 Wear Rings - OEM seem to be the consensus, rather that delrin, right?
2x 271000517 Impeller Rings
2x 293650021 Oetiker Clamps
2x 272000001 Rubber Boots
4x 272000019 Drive Shaft Plugs
1x 293550010 Synthetic Grease

Am I missing anything?

Thank you Dr. Honda for your information!
 

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Some rust on the pump end of the driveshaft is normal. The reason is... the "Seal" is just a basic boot, and doesn't seal all that well. I would suggest cleaning it with a wire wheel, and use GOOD waterproof grease when it goes back together. I personally like "Green Grease" these days since it's thick, sticky, and waterproof. Oh... and it's doesn't melt like standard grease.

As far as the hourglass shape... that's normal. It allows for some flex in the system. BUT, it's important to have everything aligned, otherwise you will wear the splines. (the hourglass isn't meant to be a U-joint)

As far as the list of parts... it looks ok. But I wouldn't bother with Oketer clamps. If it's for the rubber boot at the PTO... then just use some heavy zip ties. Yes... OEM only for the wear rings. Otherwise... you should be good.
 
With an alignment tool. It's about $150. BUT... it's a necessary tool if you are going to work on seadoos.
 
So, a few weeks gone by, and I was able to get both wear rings swapped out, jet pumps cleaned, fresh oil, and everything reassembled. Hard mounted a battery maintainer, and will hopefully get a chance to give it a spin this week. It's been fun learning so far. If it runs out well, I'll start in on turf for the floors. I want it mechanically sound before I start in on anything cosmetic.
 
With an alignment tool. It's about $150. BUT... it's a necessary tool if you are going to work on seadoos.


Hey Dr Honda! Just wanted to say thank you again. FINALLY got to take the boat out yesterday, and it's running like an absolute champion. Fast and fun! Now that i know it's mechanically solid, I'll start working on the aesthetics of it. Definitely been a fun project and learning experience so far.

Also a shout out to OSD marine. Easy company to deal with and economical as well. Definitely recommend!
 
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