1996 SeaDoo XP problem...any ideas?

[babyjoker494]

I just bought my first two PWCs last week and took them up to the lake this weekend. I have a 1996 XP and a 96 SPX. We dropped them both in the water and rode them around for about an hour with no problems at all, then the XP started to slow. It would only go about 10 mph and wouldnt go any higher. Then after awhile, it just completely stalled. The engine would not turn over. Occasionally it would start up and stall out after about 30 seconds. We charged the battery and waited overnight and then in the morning it started to run just fine again for about an hour. It then stalled out and had the same problem, except it wouldnt turn over at all. I charged the battery again and replaced the spark Plugs. one spark plug looked like it had some black sledge on it and we noticed the plug cover was loose so we tightened that. We replaced the plugs and put the new battery in and used a jump kit and started it up and rode for about 30 mins and it completely stalled again and i had to be towed in. I noticed before it stalled the XP started to slow and sputter a bit, so iknew the stall was coming. Anyone have any idea what could be wrong? Does the black sedge mean anything? Im so concerned because this is my first experiance with these things, so if anyone can help I would really appreciate it, thanks a lot.

 

[chilling]

im new also just got a xp and as i was ridin today my ski did the same thing it would only go about 10 mph and i got seaweed in the inpeller u might want to just check that theres nothing in there,it seams if u suck up anything in pump it doesnt want to move and stall

 

[babyjoker494]

ya I checked that, and everything looks clean. I really hope its nothing to serious :-/

 

[robin savell lloyd]

Make 100 percent sure that you have a good battery and test it for voltage with the engine not runing. Then start the engine and and test the battery voltage again and report back with your readings. Good luck Robin :cheers:

 

[babyjoker494]

Also, it didnt look like it was gettig a spark at times, and other times it was

 

[babyjoker494]

well i took the battery to the shop and they tested it out ok...so its not that...hum

 

[nswillin]

Start w/ compression test on engine just to be sure, and go from there.

 

[kustomkarl]

I would check the ground cable going to the engine by the starter. Be sure it has a good connection. secondly, it sounds like you need to remove the carburetors and clean them. If you're careful and don't tear or damage the diaphragms you won't need to buy a rebuild kit. Pay attention to the internal filters too. If you have gray fuel lines you need to replace them with black fuel lines available from auto parts stores like Auto Zone. Measure the length you need and bring a sample with you so you get the correct size. Replace one at a time so you don’t get them mixed up. If you need clamps replace them too. Use small stainless steel clamps also from the auto parts store.

I hope this helps.

Karl

 

[babyjoker494]

Thanks...Im gonna try that this weekend...im gonna have to call for some help though..Im not very mechanical lol. Some other people were saying its possibly the rectifier or the stator...is this possible?

 

[kustomkarl]

The only function of the Battery is to start the engine. After it starts it doesn't draw from the battery. The charging coil recharges the battery from the magneto. If the seadoo started and eventually killed the battery it might be a charging problem.
Here is how to check the charging system;
When the engine is running, set your voltmeter for 20 VDC and put the leads on the correct terminal posts. With the engine running, you should be reading anywhere from 14.5 to 14.8 VDC. (typically this test is done at 5,000 rpms) This tells you your charging circuit is good. If the voltage is higher, the regulator is bad. If you’re not showing a charge and you've replaced the rectifier, you may want to do a test on the Magneto/stator/charging coil. If you’re not a premium member and you don't have access to a manual, this test will be hard to do without it. The magneto and stator create un-regulated AC current. The "rectifier" converts that AC to DC current and the regulator maintains the current between 14 to 14.5 volts DC for the engines operation and charging circuit.

I hope this helps.

Karl