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1996 Sea-Doo Challenger - Rebuilt Engine - 35mph??? What gives?

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Schooner

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I'm a somewhat new owner of a sea-doo challenger.

Meaning, it has been sitting in my yard for 2 years with a bad engine.

Finally rebuilt the engine.

I took the jetboat out for the third time.

Are these things suppose to go 35 mph?

I just put a newly rebuilt engine using OEM parts. 170lbs of compression in each hole.

Carbs have been rebuilt.

Here are my thoughts.

1. These boats top out at 35 knots and suck getting on plane. ( I actually had to rock it side to side to get it to plane out)

2. My wear ring is bad and water is slipping by the impeller?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

C
 
Just replace the wear ring and if that year has the carbon seal check that for leakage...that some times sucks air through which causing cav....if you know that wear ring is bad just replace it...watch your rpms....don't rev the motor at top rpms for long you'll blow it...take off the housing and put it and new wear ring in freezer for about two hours or more then take out both at same time...then just pull your old ring out with your hand then simple just push the new one right in evenly...you should br hitting around 45 in that boat...
 
So beer in the fridge and wear ring in the freezer. Got it. Thanks.

I love picking up info like this to make things go smoother.

I picked up a wear ring and a Solas impeller, but wanted to use it before I did the swap to compare before and after.

I will hit 7000 rpms while trying to get on plane and between 6-6500 once on plane.

Max speed is 35.

I actually had to walk to the bow while holding the steering wheel to get the thing on plane.
 
Yea man gotta be wear ring if compression is good...no leaks around your carbon seal?....just watch your rpms...that's not good if you plan on keeping that motor...let me know after u swap out stuff how it goes...order a impeller tool...makes removal easy...plus check or change pump oil if going that far..bearings etc...
 
Thanks, I have a new wear ring and a Solas 22pitch impeller. I hope that does the trick. I have the impeller tool already. I am just learning about the carbon seal. Not sure where the best place to get one is. How do I tell if the one on there is bad? There is a little bit of water getting into the bilge, not sure where it's coming from.

I also want to make sure the shaft is lined up properly as I just popped the engine in and hoped for the best.

The boat sounds great once it get's on plane, but at idle speed it sounds not as smooth as I think it should be. Almost like something is rattling around.

This website is great for figuring out these old rattle tubs.

:cool:
 
Well as far as carbon ring just run it when you get the stuff back in...take off the plastic guard next to the pto and you'll see when its in the water if its leaking...sbt sells the kit for the carbon ring under $50....better yet if it runs now, try it now...so when you do wear ring you can do it when its all out...as the rattle order a anti rattle kit for your cone...should help a lot...as far as engine alignment tool...sbt also has them...thats the only way I know how to do it...not sure of any tricks....good luck....
 
Having just done all this... Don't just change the carbon ring (if that year has them), take a look at the stainless steel "pusher" ring too. If it looks crappy then change it too, if it looks fine at least replace the two o-rings inside it. Change the accordion boot too. My carbon rings were leaking air, but not water.

And Palerider is bang on, you have to make sure the engine is aligned. Nothing in the driveline can seal properly if it's out of alignment.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I just started pulling apart the jet pump.

I have a parts boat that the previous owner showed me a bill for $1800 to rebuild the jetpump.

Instead of re-building the one I have, my new plan is to switch everything with the parts boat.

Good idea or bad mistake?

Will I destroy the seals making the switch and have to buy parts anyway?

Is the drive shaft a bitch to get off?

Thanks,
 
Update:

I decided to pull the pump out tonight. Previous threads here really made it an easy job. Easily pushed the bushing forward and there was a C clip so my guess is that it is not original as I read 96 models had the O ring.

Here is what I found:

Impellor did not have any nicks or scratches. Besides some surface rust it looked undamaged.

Wear ring looked fine to. 4 or 5 1/4 inch scratches, but that was it. I did not have a gap gauge to measure it, but it did not looked worn.

Drive shaft had about 1/2 inch of play side to side which concerned me, but maybe that is normal.

The ride plate/shoe seemed sealed tight to the hull? Not sure if you can tell if it needs to be resealed, but it looked fine. Everything was really clean, probably since the boat was fresh water it's whole life.

So I started to clean up around in the bildge and I noticed oil leaking out of the rear Rave Valve.

I took it apart and the black plastic piece that holds the bottom of the spring was broken all around it's circumference and oil was spewing out all over.

I'm going to get a spare I have at the shop, but here is my new question:


1. Could the 35mph I was getting with a newly rebuilt engine, (170lbs compression), and trouble getting on plane be on account of
the bad rave valve top?

I would really love your opinion before I rip out the pump plate and reseal it.

Another question:

2. Do I need any new gaskets to put this thing back together?

All the boots and parts looked as if they were new.

Thanks,

C

I was confused as to
 
7000 rpms and only 35 top speed with close to forever time to get on plane. MHO it is cavitation or stripped driveshaft.

Wear ring - good
Impeller - good
Drive shaft with 1/2 inch play - bad. Need to disassemble and check for alignment and stripped splines or possibly a loose PTO.
While apart, get carbon seal kit from WCSS and replace all parts.
Get a new neoprene seal, even if it is not required on parts list and carefully install during reassembly.

RAVE housings get old, warped and cracked...just replace it.

P.S. Download a manual and read. Makes life easier. good luck!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks jhjesse,

The splines on the end of the drive shaft that goes into the engine are fine.

I disconnected everything from the drive shaft first. This way when I pulled the pump out the drive shaft came with it.

The 1/2 inch of play was from the shaft sticking out of the pump. Is that normal?
 
Schooner said:
Thanks jhjesse,

The splines on the end of the drive shaft that goes into the engine are fine.

I disconnected everything from the drive shaft first. This way when I pulled the pump out the drive shaft came with it.

The 1/2 inch of play was from the shaft sticking out of the pump. Is that normal?
Click to expand...

If I'm not mistaken there should be a rubber bumper pushed in each end of the drive shaft. Might check and see if your drive shaft contains them. If not, this could be the reason the shaft has play in it.
 
There is I just rebuilt mine, both sides....I think there like $2 bucks ....$1800 is a lot to rebuild the pumps....if you do it your self check out sbt....I ordered all my parts from them when I did my pumps....except the wear ring....just pick them up at the seafood dealer...maybe just me but most wear rings sucks....
 
Okay another update:

Pulled shaft out of pump. Splines look fine. Both ends of shaft look good.

I have a spare jet pump that came out of a 1996 Sea-doo SPx.

When I compare the two, the SPx pump is tight and the impellor does not wiggle at all.

The one I just pulled from my boat jiggles.

Feels like something internal is not good.

Too save time and $$$, can I just bolt on the SPx pump?

Everything is identical to the one I just pulled off.

Not sure if the Impellors would be the same pitch though?
 
I can't remember if there is supposed to be fore and aft play. If you switch pumps you could just pull your impeller and put it into the replacement pump. That way you'll at least know you have the right pitched impeller in there.
 
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