• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

1996 GTS - Strange Intermittent Engine Issues (I'm going insane.)

Status
Not open for further replies.

mattegan

New Member
Hey guys, sorta new here. I've been browsing without an account for a while now, and I'm finally giving in to asking for some help. Prepare for a short saga.

10 (?) years ago, a relative was purchasing new SeaDoos, and didn't want anything to do with his old 96 GTS. Since he tends to have a lot of disposable income he simply gave it to us, for free. My mom and dad had some issues over it, and my mom ended up rolling it into the backyard under pine trees, where it would sit for the next nine years. Last spring break I got tired of seeing it sit unused, so I decided to make it my project for the week (well, at least that's what I thought it was going to be at the time). It was in horrible exterior condition, and fuel and oil had sat inside for the entire time.





I did some reading, and decided to replace all of the old (tempo) fuel lines, they had a whole bunch of built-up green gunk on the fittings and such. I replaced them with automotive grade tubing, and stainless fittings. I made sure I had the right sizes and such. I took out the whole fuel baffle and replaced every tube coming off of the thing. I cleaned out the gunk from the fuel selector as well.

(This image is corrupted for some reason, oh well. I love how this thing looks like an octopus.)


I took out the oil and gas tanks, cleaned them inside and out with degreaser (and made sure they were rinsed well). I replaced the spark plugs, replaced various bits of tubing (the bilge pump tubings, I forget what else), replaced the battery, and tidied everything else up. Here's what it looked like when I got it out to the lake on the first day.



It ran spectacularly. Absolutely no hiccups. It had some cavitation problems, which I suspected was due to a faulty wear ring, but other than that, it ran extremely well. I'm not exactly sure how many hours I put on it until I started noticing problems. It was really peculiar, at anything above 50% throttle the engine would die out back to idle. If you kept the throttle down, it would either stall, or hesitate for a few moments, and then rev back up. It would occasionally stall if you didn't pull of the throttle. It sounds like the engine is being suffocated for a moment (not in terms of what's actually happening, but as if you held your hand over your mouth and tried to talk).

Without doing any investigating, I figured it was probably about time for a carb rebuild, so I bought a kit, and I rebuilt the carburetor. I didn't see any terrible signs of gunk inside the carb, in fact, it was incredibly clean. There was some of the green gunk that I saw at the fuel line connectors in the fuel intake ports, but not too much. The only oversight I can think of would be not testing the pop-off pressure for the needle valve when re-assembling the carb. I reattached the carb, and I wasn't able to get the carb tuned right before I had to go away for school.

This spring break, I took it to a local Sea-Doo shop. I told them about the tuning problems (and of a leak somewhere in the drive line). They replaced the wear ring, and then told me that repairs would cost me almost a grand, which was outrageous. I asked for the jetski back in whatever condition they had it (which was half disassembled with a bag of nuts and bolts). They said they had tuned the carb for me. I got it back together this first week of summer (two weeks ago).

I actually had (or so I've been told by another shop in the area) an older drive-line system installed, with the grease-filled seal carrier. I was told that the carbon seal type was superior, and what I was actually supposed to have on my ski (which was true, the carbon ring seal was what was shown in my shop manual and all of the blow apart diagrams). Either way, I no longer have to stop on islands and tilt the ski backwards to tip all of the water out (which is fairly nice :P).

I got it out on the lake this summer, and surprisingly, it's ran spectacularly. No more cavitation issues, the thing doesn't hesitate at all, it's actually able to pull a single-person tube, and it's been such a blast exploring the lake. I put about 10 hours on the ski this summer.....

And then we get back to the same old problems. It happened once or twice within those 10 hours, either right when I'm getting going, or after an hour or so of running. It will completely die back to idle, and either stall, or rev back up after a few seconds of hesitation. This past weekend, I had ran it almost at complete full throttle for an entire hour, and it did it once, and then I ran it again for a half hour at full throttle and it happened once more. I let some friends out on it, and it started stalling out on them. I took it out myself, and it ran okay, with a stall or two near the beginning of my run.

Here's what the spark plugs looked like when I took them out to replace them. Again, I believe these plugs hadn't been replaced since sometime last summer.



On a whim, I replaced the spark plugs (made sure to the best of my ability that they were gapped right), topped off the oil tank, and then took it out again. This time, I couldn't get the ski past 25-30% throttle without it wanting to stall. If I idled for a few seconds, I could gun the throttle and it would run at full speed for 4-6 seconds before dying back down to idle and stalling unless I let off the throttle.

I called up the shop that helped me get the drive line back in order, and one of the techs told me that I should check the compression. I ran the engine for about five minutes this morning before checking the compression, and the compression is at 135psi in both cylinders (literally exactly the same pressure in both cylinders), so I have a hard time believeing that it's my problem. I checked the fuel filter before running it this morning, and saw a good bit of gunk in the filter (it hadn't been cleaned out in a while). I also checked the spark this morning, but on each plug, not with the same plug (the wear on the newer plugs was a tad different), and the spark on one plug seemed just a tad stronger than the other.

Here's what I saw in the fuel filter. The entire little circular cavity at the bottom of this filter body was filed with the gunk.



What was interesting about running it this morning (before doing the compression test) is that the tune of the engine seemed to follow a beat (where one stroke would be louder (or something) at a regular interval). Also, when I would squeeze the throttle a tad, it would be reluctant to come back down to idle. I ended up stopping the engine because it ran away after I gave the throttle a good tug and wouldn't idle back down.

I am honestly at a loss here. My only ideas are the coil packs, or an incorrectly tuned carb (though, I'm really what could cause such intermittent issues, eg. once every hour). Possibly the intermittent issue was the clogged up fuel filter? And perhaps the shop could have tuned the carb with fouled plugs, making the high-speed adjustment over-rich and flooding the engine in the higher throttle ranges? Maybe I need to take the carb off and check the pop-off pressure? Maybe there's a faulty coil pack? Please help me D:

I love this ski so much, and my only desire right now is to have it back out on the lake and humming along. I'm learning so much right now (I'm studying electrical engineering, never been a huge mechanical car/engine dude). The guys at the shop keep telling me to bring it in and just pay then 105 dollars an hour to fix it up, but I really enjoy having this 2-stroke because it means there's a lot more I can do myself.

Thank you guys so much in advance!
 
For starters, clip the spark plug wires back 1/4 inch and re-install the boots. Compression should be checked COLD. So i would re-do the test. I check each cylinder 3 times, and keep the one in the middle.

Take it out for a run and try to get it to replicate that bog. When it does it, immediatly pull the choke and see if it helps it or stalls. If it picks up and runs, Your carb is too lean (turn out L screw 1/8 turn) if it dies, then i would turn it in the tiniest bit. like 1/16. Your plugs look fine. To read the plugs you look at the middle insulator. brown, light brown is acceptable. A little richer is sometimes on the safer side, but you should be okay. Does your beeper work? Does it overheat?
 
did you clean/replace the filter inside the carb when you rebuilt it? that, plus an unknown pop-off setting i would recommend you either re-rebuild the carb or ship it off to Dr. Honda. he did great work on my gtx carbs that were completely plugged up. another possible source could be your fuel selector. if you didn't get it cleaned out or replace it it could be clogged. try running on RES to see if the issue clears up. with the key on the post, pull your temp sensor and touch it to a ground, likely the closest place you can reach will be the bottom of one of the spark plugs. your beeper should go off and the overheat light should come on, if you have one.

hopefully you get it sorted, that ski came out looking really nice, i love the cooler/gas can rack on the back.
 
Thanks for your suggestions guys.

-BiRkSS_: I'll check the compression cold first thing in the morning. I'll also clip back the spark plug wires as well. Should I put new plugs in the ski before taking it out to the lake? Also, could topping off the oil with a slightly different brand oil cause any problems? I was running low one day last week and only put a liter or two of generic PWC two-stroke oil in the tank. This past weekend when the oil light came on, I completely filled the tank with some Pennzoil Marine XLF two-stroke oil.

Strizzo: I believe I installed a new filter actually, it came with the Mikuni rebuild kit. I don't think the engine has been overheating, if anything, it's been running cooler this season (from what I can notice). The engine block doesn't actually become too hot to the touch. When I pulled the ski out of the back yard last year I spent forever on that selector switch, I see what you're saying about trying it in the RES selection though, I've tried that. I suppose pulling it back off and cleaning it up quickly couldn't hurt though. I saw somewhere else somebody suggested spraying carb cleaner into it and then blowing it out with compressed air. -- Thanks for the complements on the ski. I've had some friends talk about some other, newer SeaDoos out at the lake (I'll admit, those new GTRs and RXTs are quite agressive looking, I love the black hulls), but boy do I love this GTS. It has such a groovy 90's color scheme, and I just can't get over it.

I'm really hoping it's something simple. I'd rather do an engine rebuild in the winter, and not during these hot, beautiful Georgia lake days ;) Keeping my fingers crossed!
 
stop right there, don't go any further. you cannot run tcw-3 oil in a rotax, you have to run seadoo oil or a suitable other brand oil in it, or you'll burn up the top end. you need to pull the oil tank and clean it out again, get rid of the tcw-3 oil and flush the system and replace it all with seadoo 2-stroke mineral oil or an API-TC rated other brand. that pennzoil will not cut it. what was the brand that you bought at the dock?
 
I just checked the compression on the engine cold. It's actually at 140psi on both cylinders now.

Regarding the oils, I was totally unaware. I honestly have no idea what I picked up at the Marina, it was recommended for SeaDoo rotax engines. At the time I would have rather had oil in the tank than to run out of oil. Okay. I'll pull the tank today and flush all of the lines, and replace the oil filter. Could I have done any significant damage in the 10 minutes or so I ran the Ski with the new oil?

I think I'll also purchase another carb rebuild kit and a pop-off pressure tester while I'm at it.
 
You prob didnt damage anything by running the oil, as long as its NOT tcw-3 oil you will be fine.

the oil he has been running is TCW-3, that is the issue. he's going about it the right way, draining and flushing, this might be a good time to replace the oil injection lines as well while you have the carb off so you can completely flush the injection system with rotax oil.
 
Here was what I read awhile back on TCW3 vs API-TC:

Rotax’s Position on What Oil to use

As we all know, Bombardier requires that an API-TC oil be used in their engines. Most other PWC manufacturers allow the use of TCW3 in their engines. So, what’s the difference? A PWC is a PWC, right? No, it’s not! Rotax marine engines evolved from their very successful snowmobile and motorcycle racing designs. These engines produce more power/cc than any other PWC manufacturer’s engine. Rotax designs these engines to work harder and run hotter than other brands. They simply need more protection than TCW3 oils can give. Those that use TCW3 oils are risking high temp. Seizure if the engine cooling system plugs or and internal fuel filter plugs (lean condition). These things may not happen very often, but when they do, it’s better to have a little extra protection that only a TI-TC oil can give.
 
Hey guys, I just pulled the oil tank today and cleaned it out. There's a dark purple stain that I wasn't able to get out of the oil tank, I assume that the tank is just discolored from 16 years of oil.

I'm going to flush all of the lines and reinstall the tubing, however, the two oil-return lines that come off the bottom of the engine are really difficult to get to. They're at the very bottom of the engine on either side (one is all up in the exhaust system) and I think they'd be pretty impossible to get off without having the engine free of its mounts. Is it okay if I just try to squeeze all of the oil out of these lines as possible (I don't think there's much). I'm just wondering, I've heard it's not good to mix the mineral and synthetic oils.

Thanks for all your help!
 
Hey guys, I just pulled the oil tank today and cleaned it out. There's a dark purple stain that I wasn't able to get out of the oil tank, I assume that the tank is just discolored from 16 years of oil.

I'm going to flush all of the lines and reinstall the tubing, however, the two oil-return lines that come off the bottom of the engine are really difficult to get to. They're at the very bottom of the engine on either side (one is all up in the exhaust system) and I think they'd be pretty impossible to get off without having the engine free of its mounts. Is it okay if I just try to squeeze all of the oil out of these lines as possible (I don't think there's much). I'm just wondering, I've heard it's not good to mix the mineral and synthetic oils.

Thanks for all your help!

One is the supply and the other is a vent, if you can get a container low enough you can drain it out the bottom, and flush some of the good stuff through from the vent side, you'll probably be ok. Just try to get as much of the suspect oil out as you can.
 
Any junk you saw in that strainer since the carb rebuild is also getting into your carb. You don't necessarily have to buy the kit again as all your parts are pretty new but I would pull and reclean thoroughly. Blast the carb cleaner in all the tiny ports in the throat and everywhere else. Do the pop off test to help decide if the needle and seats are good. Put in an inline fuel filter like a Fram G2 as well. Look over the tech section on the main page as there are 2-3 really helpful write ups on bogging and tuning.
 
Here is what I would do. Take the tips of those lines where they connect to the oil tank, and blow though one end and try and get as much oil as you can out. The one under the carbs is really easy to get to if you remove the carbs either that way or you can connect a fluid transfer pump to one line and try and pump that oil out
 
Are there two vent lines? I need to look at my manual. Only one line has a filter.

There are two lines coming from the bottom of your oil tank, the one with the filter goes to the oil pump, the other to the bottom fitting on the crankcase, then there is one more fitting higher up on the case that goes to the upper part of the oil tank. This is the vent line, it equalizes the air displaces by the oil going into the rotary valve cavity. If you can get the lower hose low enough, you can drain the rotary valve cavity. Then you can flush whatever is left out via the vent hose.
 
Here is what I would do. Take the tips of those lines where they connect to the oil tank, and blow though one end and try and get as much oil as you can out. The one under the carbs is really easy to get to if you remove the carbs either that way or you can connect a fluid transfer pump to one line and try and pump that oil out

Great idea on the fluid pump! Probably easiest way to drain the rv cavity
 
The little filter did come with the carb kit, but like bell99man said, it can clog up again.... I had the same problem on another project, cleaned it, ran good for awhile clogged again..... then fuel starved. Exact symptoms as you have....
GREAT JOB on the project!
 
Hold on here guys, we are running an engine that sat for an incredible amount of time then fired back up. The running away issue seems like an air leak to me...... But the way it is coming about doesn't seem to be consistent.

All I'm saying is keep a bad/temperamental crank seal in the back of your mind. I have seen it all the time with chain saws... Drain the fuel and sit it on the shelf for a few years, then fire it back up and it's running away and inconsistently idling. Classic case of an air leak IMO. Only easy way to confirm is to spray the PTO seal, cylinder base gasket, carb base gasket, and rotary valve cover joint with some carb clean while its running. Even then you haven't tested the mag seal. If it changes the way it runs at all, it's got an air leak. Air leaks=lean running which means a future meltdown so keep that in mind too.
 
It has a completely consistent idle, and it has ran fine for 10 hours this season. When I rebuilt the carbs I cleaned it completely. I hit everything with parts cleaner, I submersed it in carb cleaner for hours (however long the can said I could leave it in, don't worry). I polished up a few surfaces with a soft brass Dremel brush at a low rpm. I stripped the cracking paint from the outside with hours of work with paint stripper, and repainted it with a marine-safe high-temp paint.

I managed to get most (at least, I think) of the oil out of the engine by blowing on the upper-engine tube and collecting the expelled oil from the bottom tube. I also removed the carb to inspect. I'm seriously not able to get to the hose clamps that are attached to the lower and upper parts of the engine (the upper oil tube especially, it's all up in the exhaust system and near the side of the engine compartment.

You guys must be psychic though, because the carb was loose from it's mount (I suppose the Loctite blue I put on there when reassembling didn't hold, or I completely forgot). Without the intake manifold (flame arrestor/air filter holder) securing the top of the carb to the head of the engine, it was movable.


(excuse my friend's drumming, I told him he has to provide company while working on the jetski in exchange for the time I'm giving/given to him on it!)
[video=youtube;hIoTIMRm4UA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIoTIMRm4UA&hd=1[/video]

What's really weird though is I just can't find a problem that would explain running like a beauty for 10 hours with just five or six occurrences of this strange dying out thing. What would cause it to be working acceptably (stalling occasionally) to not being able to run at all after installing new plugs? I'm at such a loss.

edit : ah, yes, the inconsistent idle when running it in my driveway after getting it off the lake, yeah, the air leak at the carb might explain that, also, it might explain the slight rattling noise that I thought was just how it sounded (I couldn't remember exactly what it sounded like from last summer). Hopefully I can get the carb cleaned out (or at least examined) and back on the thing by tomorrow or Wednesday. Thanks for all your help guys, you're awesome!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Okay, just because I was really curious and couldn't go to bed without checking, I popped the fuel pump side of the carb open to inspect the filter in the carb, other than a little dot of fuzz, it appears to be completely clean.
 
If you are confident with your work, put it all back together and test it again in the lake. In the driveway without a load on the prop will not really give a clear picture of how it is going to run. If you have read those links I put above then you know where to set the carb and how to check adjustments.

Electrical problems should be all you have left to check. A ski that age that sat unused for so long might have some hidden corrosion at connections anywhere in the system. Pull on all of them looking for weakness and unplug any plug and look at the prongs and sockets for corrosion. The lanyard post might be going bad.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top