1996 GTI small amount of oil in cylinder

[nbaddorf]

Hi this is a follow up thread to an older thread of mine. https://www.seadooforum.com/threads/1996-gti-getting-to-much-gas.114783/#post-686314
So far, I have diagnosed that the problem is not gas related (I can turn off the fuel valve and the engine still gets too much oil in it). I can get the ski to run for around 10 seconds then it dies. I have done lots of research and I don't think that the problem is crank seals leaking into the bottom end of the engine. Everyone in those forums seems to say that the engine is visible filled with oil. They also often have problems with hydro locking due to that oil. I have no issues with hydro locking, and the engine spins quickly when starting. I have tried pulling the spark plugs, and have herd that a geyser of oil should come out. I do not have that. When I say small amount of oil in the cylinder, that is only after I run the ski for 10 seconds before it dies. By small I mean just a thin layer of oil covering the cylinder making it look smooth. Thanks for your help!

 

[mikidymac]

It is a 2-stroke so there will always be oil in the cylinders.

Is your oil pump adjusted correctly?

 

[nbaddorf]

The oil pump is adjusted correctly as far as I know. When no throttle is given, the lines mach up on the oil pump.

 

[etemplet]

If you replace the spark plugs will the engine restart and run?? Get a spark testor from auto zone and see if you are maintaining spark. That will determine what is causing the engine to stall.

Starting and running for a bit then stalling leads me to think "fuel." I think I've had stranger fuel issues than many and I've made videos of me pulling fuel though the system using a pump and a clear fuel line and watching the air bubbles in the line. LOL

 

[Ckrawiec]

If you replace the spark plugs will the engine restart and run?? Get a spark testor from auto zone and see if you are maintaining spark. That will determine what is causing the engine to stall.

Starting and running for a bit then stalling leads me to think "fuel." I think I've had stranger fuel issues than many and I've made videos of me pulling fuel though the system using a pump and a clear fuel line and watching the air bubbles in the line. LOL

As Gene states......starting and running for 10 seconds points to a fuel delivery (and a maintained fuel delivery) issue.

NOW, you should be looking into the carb(s) as the issue......if the engine is running it should be "pulling" fuel into itself through the carb(s) - engine creates vacuum, vacuums suck stuff into them. A running engine is basically a vacuum pump - sucks fuel into it, the fuel blows up in the combustion chamber, pushing the pistons, expelling the exhaust, REPEAT (really fast).

 

[nbaddorf]

I understand about the vacuum idea and originally I thought that it was a carb problem (I have rebuilt with genuine parts). In the previous thread, I was asked to turn off the fuel valve to get all gas out of the fuel lines incase this was a flooding problem. I removed the spark plugs and ran the starter, but after a while, I was still getting the liquid in the cylinders. That led me to think this was oil.

 

[mikidymac]

Until you actually get it running and can rev it up and burn that oil and gas out of the crankcase it will continue to bring up oil and gas for a very, very long time.

 

[nbaddorf]

Ok, so since my last message, I have gotten the ski to run for around 30 seconds on hose, although I think it is running rough. I also converted the ski to premix. I hope that someday after fixing the ski, I can convert it back to oil injection.

So premix did not solve my issue with oil just like y'all said it wouldn't. Like I said in my first post in this thread, I have never had hydro locking or large amounts of oil coming out of the spark plug holes.

Due to this information, would it make sense that I might have a very small leak in the bottom end causing just a small amount of oil to leak over winter, but not enough oil to lock up the engine?

Also what type of oil should I be using? I am currently using LUCAS Semi-synthetic oil tc-w3 which I had gotten from previous owner.

 

[etemplet]

You can put a valve on the line going to the rotary valve gear. As for getting the oil out. After the engine starts it will just smoke a lot. My wife's ski will lock up with so much oil. I just put in a valve. Smokes on start up after it has been sitting but other than that great.

You have an interesting problem with the engine. check your fuel tank vent or remove the fuel cap and see what happens. run a direct line from the baffle to the carb or use an auxillary fuel set up to see what changes. I have put a clear hose into a fuel tank and another line into the fuel pump which I put in my mouth and did my impression of the pistons. Suck and blow. LOL The fuel should be drawn up the line pretty quickly.

Did you replace the fuel lines? I've had that issue as well. Good Luck. In the end... you'll win!

 

[mikidymac]

TCW-3 is wrong and in a few rare instances has caused seals to leak and switching to the correct oil has fixed it.

Lucas does make an API-TC oil.

 

[nbaddorf]

To etemplet's response:

• I ordered 12mm valves to add to the rotary valve line, but they still haven't come yet. Would I need to add a valve to the crankshaft oil line to?
• When running the ski, it does smoke allot but it don't seem to be running the best. My theory was that oil was bridging the spark plug gap, causing it to not spark. Would that make sense? Do you have that problem or is that being caused my something else?
• With the gas pressure, I will try running the ski with the gas cap off. If pressure was the issue, wouldn't I hear the pressure escaping when I open the gas cap?
• As for fuel lines, one of the previous owners (I know there were at least 2) did replace all fuel lines and rebuilt the carb with non-genuine mikuni parts. (I have since them rebuilt them with genuine parts)

To mikidymac:

• Would the oil that I am currently using cause problems for the ski like hurting pistons or something similar? I believe that this is what the previous owner had used. I am just worried that it might have created some problem that I don't know about.
• Thats interesting what you said about the TCW-3 oil causing leaking. I hope that is the problem!
• What type of oil would you recommend? Is there any inexpensive oils?

Thanks for both of your help! I really appreciate having knowledgeable people helping me fix this thing! Thank y'all so much!

 

[mikidymac]

If it’s still smoking a lot either your crank seals are really leaking or your oil pump isn’t adjusted correctly.

For oil the cheapest is probably the Lucas but make sure it says API-TC rated on it because they make some that aren’t approved.

 

[nbaddorf]

Its not smoking like crazy but there is some smoke. I converted the ski to premix so it cant be the oil pump.

for the oil, does it have to be fully synthetic? Also I have been looking around, but I cant find any oil on amazon except the Seadoo BRP XPS oil. Where do you get your oil?

 

[mikidymac]

It will smoke more with premix and you will use way more oil which is why we don't recommend it here.

You also have to keep oil in the oil tank for the rotary gear on yours.

You don't have to use synthetic at all on your ski as it is a 720.

Seadoo XPS Mineral on amazon $35.

Lucas on Amazon.....

Lucas Oil 10115 Semi-Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil - 1 Gallon Jug​

$30.99

---

List Price:	$35.95 Details
Price:	$30.99 & FREE Returns

 

[nbaddorf]

Thanks so much! I thought it had to be fully synthetic. So would you recommend me flushing the old oil out of the oil tank and engine, and replacing it with this new oil?

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, you can't mix different brands of oil. And be sure to replace the white inline oil filter.