So I have been working on this ski for over 6 months now and it still doesn't run and I really need y'alls help. I have rebuilt the carbs with genuine mikuni parts. I think that the problem now is that there is way to much gas in the cylinders. I have tried getting that gas out my running the starter with spark plugs out, but after trying it again with gas turned on, the sparks are soaked in fuel. I have checked my pop off pressure, and it pops right about at 40 psi. I think that I have good compression, after testing it with my harbor freight tester, which I know isn't very accurate but I did some research, and it seems that the numbers I was getting for that tester was good. I am super exited to get this ski working, and I feel like I have done everything on this ski, but it still dosnt work. Any help appreciated. Thanks!
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1996 GTI getting to much gas
- Thread starter nbaddorf
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If it is flooded with gas you are going to have to get that out so stop turning the fuel back to ON.
With the gas OFF crank it over with the throttle wide open. Remove the plugs and with the plug wires grounded put your thumb over the hole and crank it and see if it is still blowing fuel out. Once you think the fuel is out put the spark plugs back in and crank it then remove them and make sure they aren't fuel soaked.
1. Make sure you are getting spark.
2. You need to check the carbs for leak down not just popoff.
3. You need to check compression with an accurate gauge and verify it is over 120 psi, not guessing at a Harbor Freight gauge.
With the gas OFF crank it over with the throttle wide open. Remove the plugs and with the plug wires grounded put your thumb over the hole and crank it and see if it is still blowing fuel out. Once you think the fuel is out put the spark plugs back in and crank it then remove them and make sure they aren't fuel soaked.
1. Make sure you are getting spark.
2. You need to check the carbs for leak down not just popoff.
3. You need to check compression with an accurate gauge and verify it is over 120 psi, not guessing at a Harbor Freight gauge.
Ok, so here is what I have found out so far. I tried turning off the gas and holding the throttle to pump out gas. The rear carb emptied fairly quickly. I have been pumping it for a little while with brakes so as to not ware out the starter motor, and I still have fuel coming into the front carb. when I tried screwing in the spark plugs again, they get soaked in the front carb and the rear carb is clean. And all this is with the fuel switch turned to off.
I am not sure what you mean by setting the needles to factory spec. I did not use the springs that came with the rebuild kit. I did end up purchasing a set of 80 gram black springs because I wasn't sure if the springs that were in my ski were original.
I haven't done the 10psi test because the air compressor that I am borrowing leaks and I don't know how to make it only output 10 psi.
P.S. A previous owner did rebuild this carb with non mikuni parts so I don't know if every thing he did was stock. I have since then rebuilt with genuine mikuni.
I haven't done the 10psi test because the air compressor that I am borrowing leaks and I don't know how to make it only output 10 psi.
P.S. A previous owner did rebuild this carb with non mikuni parts so I don't know if every thing he did was stock. I have since then rebuilt with genuine mikuni.
I am referring to the Low and High speed jet needles that adjust how much gas is coming into the carb (on the outside of the carb). If these were not set to factory setting you could just be pumping far too much gas on one.
This is a super important thing to double-check on because if they are not set correctly in either direction you will experience trouble. Set them too rich and you could flood the motor. set them too lean and you're going to blow it.
You can find this information on this page for future reference
But for your carbs, it's listed as 1 full turn out on the low speed and 0 turns out on the high speed.
This means turn the needles in (clockwise) until you feel a little resistance then stop. From there you will back them (counterclockwise) out based on those numbers above.
Ok, when I get a chance, I will double check the needles, but from my notes, the ski was previously at: hight speed all the way in, low speed 1.25 turns out. I will try setting the low speed to 1 turn.
When I was trying to get all gas out of the cylinders the rear carb emptied quickly but the front carb still has something in there. I was thinking that maybe I have oil flooding the front carb, not gas. If so, does this mean that my oil injector is bad because the rear carb isn't getting any oil as far as I can see?
Also I really appreciate y'all helping me, thanks!
When I was trying to get all gas out of the cylinders the rear carb emptied quickly but the front carb still has something in there. I was thinking that maybe I have oil flooding the front carb, not gas. If so, does this mean that my oil injector is bad because the rear carb isn't getting any oil as far as I can see?
Also I really appreciate y'all helping me, thanks!
What do you mean by, "The front carb still has something in there"? Are we talking the actual carb or the cylinder?
The carb can't have oil in it as the fuel and oil systems are separate.
WIth the fuel turned off the carbs will stop supplying fuel fairly quickly and should not continue to flood the engine.
The carb can't have oil in it as the fuel and oil systems are separate.
WIth the fuel turned off the carbs will stop supplying fuel fairly quickly and should not continue to flood the engine.
Sorry, I didn't clarify. By "front carb still has something in there" I was referring to some liquid in the cylinder, not carb. I think that the gas did stop coming into the cylinder quickly but I found that there was an excess of oil in the first cylinder but none that I could see in the rear cylinder.
Basically your crank seals are worn and leaking oil into the crankcase and then cylinders.
I would try to get it running and burn that excess oil out then check it every day for about a week and see how long it takes to start filling back up.
If it is a slow leak then you can put a ball valve on the rotary gear feed line and get by for a few more years.
If it is filling up in a day or two then you will have to pull the engine, take the engine apart and install a new crankshaft.
I would try to get it running and burn that excess oil out then check it every day for about a week and see how long it takes to start filling back up.
If it is a slow leak then you can put a ball valve on the rotary gear feed line and get by for a few more years.
If it is filling up in a day or two then you will have to pull the engine, take the engine apart and install a new crankshaft.
I don't think that the oil is leaking into the cylinder over time, I could be wrong but I think that it is only leaking when I am trying to start the engine. The cylinder never gets very full, just maybe a 1/8 inch of oil.
I still cant actually get the engine to run for more than a second occasionally because I'm guessing due to the oil problem.
Would bypassing the oil injector and simply premixing fix this issue? I am not opposed to that idea at this point due to the fact that it seams like everything is breaking so I want to remove all potential problems.
I still cant actually get the engine to run for more than a second occasionally because I'm guessing due to the oil problem.
Would bypassing the oil injector and simply premixing fix this issue? I am not opposed to that idea at this point due to the fact that it seams like everything is breaking so I want to remove all potential problems.
I have had this ski for over 6 months now and I haven't ever noticed either cylinder filling up with any liquid over this hole time.
I am also a bit confused on how you are saying the cylinders would fill up with oil when the crankcase is below the cylinders. Do you mean that the crankcase fills up with oil, and when I run the starter motor, the cylinders will pick up that oil?
I am also a bit confused on how you are saying the cylinders would fill up with oil when the crankcase is below the cylinders. Do you mean that the crankcase fills up with oil, and when I run the starter motor, the cylinders will pick up that oil?
So are y'all recommending that every day I go and run the starter for a second and then look at how much oil is in the cylinder?
One question, if the crank leaking is the problem, then why isn't both cylinders getting flooded with oil, instead of only the front cylinder getting flooded?
One question, if the crank leaking is the problem, then why isn't both cylinders getting flooded with oil, instead of only the front cylinder getting flooded?
Yes, the crankcase fills with oil and because it is a 2-stroke the crankcase volume comes up through the transfer and boost ports up into the cylinder.
You wouldn't really know until you crank it and it will either hydrolock from not being able to compress the oil or will crank really slow and then blow it out if you remove the plugs.
The only way it would be fuel related is if your shutoff valve doesn't work.
The only way it would be oil pump related is if your oil pump is going bad but that is unheard of.
You wouldn't really know until you crank it and it will either hydrolock from not being able to compress the oil or will crank really slow and then blow it out if you remove the plugs.
The only way it would be fuel related is if your shutoff valve doesn't work.
The only way it would be oil pump related is if your oil pump is going bad but that is unheard of.
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