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1996 GTI bogges down then surges

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Got a 96 GTI that started bogging down when you hit 30 MPH, then surges forward, then boggs down again. It will new go over 30 MPH. Its not missing at all, it seems like it is starving for fuel.

I know if I take it to my local jetski ,mechanic, the first thing he;s going to say is that my carbs need rebuilding and my gray fuel hoses need to be replaced. This seems like his standard response to runabilbity probelms.

Does my problem seem like a clogged carb internal filters? Are the gray fuel lines as problematic a REQUIRE replacements as i've seen on other post?

Also, is the carb rebuilt process fairly straight forward for mechanically inclined folks or should I shell out the $400 i know the mechanic will want.

Appreciate any help here from the forum!
 
hi. the ethanol in gasoline is dissolving the silicon lining in the grey fuel lines. then deposits the gunk in the carbs. replace them. then clean out the carb filters. this engine is simple. no rave valves. no water injection in the exhaust. no superfluous bullasheeta. gas-spark-compression-rotary valve in time. and it has NO CHOICE but to run. check the little hose that gives a pressure pulse from crankcase to carbs also. that is your fuel pump drive.
 
Thanks for advice.

Do you know what version mikuni dual carbs are on this 1996 GTI?? Where do you reccomend purchasing carb rebuilt basic kits? Thanks so much for your advice!!
 
Carbs....

You probably don't need a rebuild kit, you only need to get rid of those grey lines. Members who have come in with this problem have found new life in their skis by dumping the lines.

Cut a piece of your line and go to your local auto parts store and tell them you need fuel line, the size of the line you have. It's metric, but they can give you the closest match in the imperial size. I think it's about 1/4" size hose. Make sure you get plenty of new clamps.

Replace all the fuel line. There have been members say the vent line was to hard to get to, could then leave it. Well, no fuel is actually circulated through that line, so, they've found it wasn't necessary.

Your carbs. If the strainer basket did it's job, then all the trash is going to be right there. Just pull the pump assembly off (4 screws) where your pulse line is connected. Gently break the seal and you won't damage the gaskets. Then, after your housing is off, pop off the next plate, again, gently. Look at the small clear plastic, round rings. Those are your check valves. Make sure they are clean. Then, your strainer basket is right there too. It's a small, round filter, about the size of a pencil and about 1/2" long. It will probably have a gunk in it. Clean it out. Clean the parts back up and put them together. When you first put your fuel line on to the fuel cut-off valve, blow through the reserve and on side to make sure it's clean.

You should be ready to go. Pull the choke and turn the engine over. Be patient, it'll pump up. Then, you should be ready to ride!.....oh, if you want to throw away $400 bucks for a carb rebuild, I live in south Alabama, come on down, I'll do if for half that!..........:rofl:
:cheers:
 
HELP!! Bogging issue has me Crazy...1994 GTX

I am having the same problem. I replaced the fuel lines, cleaned my gas tank, installed new baffle, rebuild one carb and bought brand new one with the fuel pump on it. It will take off like a bat out of hell then after 2 -5 secounds boggs down then after a few seconds will take off again over and over. Runs good to 1/2 throttle. The compression on cylinders is excellent. I am at wits end. What else could I check or do? SOMEONE PLEASE HELP...
 
hey...check your carbs setting.......1994 GTX 657 270500205 270500206 BN-38 (SB) MAIN-125 PILOT-60 2.0n/s 22 - 29psi LOW- 1-1/4 HIGH- 3/8
 
how to you check the psi's on the carbs.....same problem here. just got done replaces all the fuel lines, cleaned out the gas tank, replaced the fuel filter. I am in the same boat...lol with you'll. Please Help
 
you can use bicycle pump...with gauge rigged on be better, the inlet gas spigot is where to hook pump valve up, then cover/block the other spigots, then proceed to pump, if your pump holds pressure, then you can keep pump'n til you hear it "POP", or depend'n on pump, keep push'n gradually, while watch'n scree/dial, til it pops, you see needle fall. Due 3 times to get approx read'n.
 
high and low is the needle adjustment....low speed adjustment screw, and high speed adjustment screw. The pop-off psi=broad window for which it needs to fall in...
 
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