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1996 Challenger 15ft 110HP

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lovemoreira

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Hi everyone. I am probably as new and ignorant as they come when it comes to any boat. I bought my first boat 2 days ago and not even sure how to use the 3 knobs(one is lights I believe) on the left or the 3 handles on the right. ( one on the left is forward, neutral, and reverse the one in the middle is the gas and the one on the right I am clueless) I may have all this wrong;) When I bought the boat the guy told us (I forgot) it did not come with any manuals and I was unable to find the operators or owners manual here. Also I am having an issue with it. It does not seem to pick up speed. It only goes to 15mph and the the rpm is about 6000. I also noticed what looked like what smoke or steam while in full throttle. It also does not want to idle. if you let go of the gas even in neutral it dies almost immediately most of the time. I hope I am posting this in the right spot. One more question is this a good boat to tow a tube. I did buy a HO Trio for my boys and the boat did not want to go over 10mph. Thanks in advance. Christie
 
Hi Christie,...you'll wanna go thru the carbs, double check the settings/adjustments, as well as rip thru the fuel system. Boat has plenty to pop ur youngsters up, and also, double check the clearance between the wear ring and impellor edge, should be no more than 1mm space. If so, the 6k rpm at 10mph is a good indication...:cheers:
 
To figure out those controls, head over to here for the user manuals :D

Good idea to print that or at least part of it to have with you.
Switches on the left: Top = Nav lights, Bottom Left = Bilge pump manual override, Bottom Right = Blower (Run it a few mins before starting, don't want to blow up your new boat ;) )

Levers on the right, left to right: Reverse/neutral control, throttle control, VTS lever (similar to trim tabs on an inboard, use to change jet angle to get the bow at the right angle)

I just got my '97 Challenger too, maybe I'll get the motor cranking this week, have to wait for paperwork before I can launch it...
 
Thanks!

Hi Thanks for all the help. Sorry I did not reply sooner. I took the boat out again around 9am after writing my first post and it was losing power, water was coming from the top of what I believe to be the cooling system water valve, started smoking and then I turned it off. Tried to start it up 30-45 minutes later after the kids swam for a while. Then it would not start it did nothing. Had to be towed in. Took it to a mechanic today and was told it needs a motor. Anyone know how much that should run?

Thanks,
Christie
 
So sorry to hear that!
There is good news and bad news...

Good first: A rebuilt motor can be had through a number of sources for between 700 and 1200 bucks, and there are people who will rebuild for that amount too (I don't know who though, others will chime in here too).

And the bad: Some dealers and mechanics will charge exhorbitant amounts for replacing or rebuilding a motor. I've seen people on here mention $2500 or more.

I hope your mechanic is a bit better... the install of that motor should not take more than about 5 hours for a good mechanic, maybe less as there just aren't that many parts to it. Figure 100/hr for labor, some other misc parts, and 900 for the motor, I'm getting $1500...

If you get quoted twice that, it may be worth it to ask a couple other mechanics in the area, or take a look at the estimate, because if they're charging you 500 for labor and 2000 for a motor, you can get the motor yourself and have them put it in.

Sorry I went on a bit there, I'm hoping others on here will fill in or correct my mistakes...

Good luck! I know once that engine's working you will love your boat!
 
hey guy sorry for the trouble look up sbtontheweb.com for a 787 engine i think they are about $850 and $500-$700 dollars labor max if the carbs dont need anything then maybe a little more i wouldnt pay more than that. if you cant get a cheaper price fly me to vegas and i will do the labor for FREE!!! I am a graduate from mmi in orlando.
 
Good to hear that 1500 should be all that's needed... Too bad the boat's in Texas, flying you to Vegas wouldn't help ;)
 
Another question

Thanks everyone you guys are awesome. I have one more question. Once I replace the motor wouldn't there be other things that would have caused it to go out. The problem with the motor is this... They took the spark plugs out one was not any good one was ok I believe. THey pushed on one of the pistons or something and one piston would not push down not with any type of force. The other one would. Anyone know what could have caused this? I do know that the carbs need to be cleaned, need new spark plugs, fix water valve or rave not sure what it is exactly but do know it needs to be taken care of.
Thanks in advance,
Christie
 
As for pushing on the pistons I'm a bit confused... because of the engine design, both pistons are tied to each other by the crankshaft, so if one moves, the other should move the other way. For them to move independently, something would have to be severely broken in the motor (crankshaft, connecting rod, etc).
The normal way to check the piston movement is to turn the crank by hand, easiest way is to grab the PTO flywheel, the round white thing that the driveshaft comes out from, and just try to turn it. You should be able to turn it without trying too hard as long as the spark plugs are removed, and both pistons should move (opposite directions) as it is turned.

From what you described happening, it sounds like the bad water valve caused too much cooling system pressure to build in the engine, causing water to push through the seals. So replacing that water valve would allow the water to escape and the engine failure wouldn't happen again.

But I'm not a marine engine mechanic, so I could be wrong...
 
Yes something a very wrong. One piston should move up and the other should go down. One does not budge. I was told it was a big deal and I need a motor. I am wondering what could have caused this.
 
If water got into one of the pistons when the engine was running flat out, 5000rpm or more, it could have hydrolocked the piston (water doesn't compress). The force the engine has already from spinning that fast and suddently not being able to move the piston probably caused the connecting rod that goes from the crankshaft to that piston to break in half.

Another possibility is that the cylinder was not getting properly cooled *or lubricated*, eventually causing the piston to seize in the cylinder. Again, since the engine suddenly couldn't move the piston, the connecting rod snapped.

With the replacement engine, if the water cooling system is verified to be properly working including the water valves, and also the oil injection system is verified to be properly lubricating the engine, you should not have this problem again.
 
wow...I feel for yah, Christie. Check out "PARTS" tab on this page/site, or sbtontheweb, for a motor, dont throw in da towel, just yet....no offense, but this is classic example, why, when people on here,are in the hunt for ski/boat, why the responses are, to have the seller take itt to lake with purchaser,...all skis/boats sound great out of water...
 
wow...I feel for yah, Christie. Check out "PARTS" tab on this page/site, or sbtontheweb, for a motor, dont throw in da towel, just yet....no offense, but this is classic example, why, when people on here,are in the hunt for ski/boat, why the responses are, to have the seller take itt to lake with purchaser,...all skis/boats sound great out of water...

When we test drove the boat it was loosing power the seller opened the "hood" unscrewed a "cup" filled with gas and has a filter in it and said when it looses power clean out the black specks. When he did this it help. I did not think it could be a bigger deal then it was. I will pay the extra money and fix the boat. My mechanic (husbands former roommate)said he would put it in for a $200-250. I found a rebuilt with a 1 year no-fault warranty for $800. The next time I buy a boat I will take someone with me who knows about them.
 
That is a great price! Wish I could find a compentant mechanic around here who wouldn't charge up the a** for everything. Good luck, and let us know how it works out!
 
It sounds like your on the right track now Christie. Let us know if we can help out anymore, and keep us posted on you progress.

Karl
 
Another Question

I do not get this....

I found a place where I can buy a 787 engine for $800. However they said I need to send in my core first and after I send that to them they will send me the engine. If I would like they will send it back (my old core) when they ship the new engine. They also said they would do the fly wheel and timing for free. What is the core? Is that my no good engine? Why would/do they need that?

Thanks,
Christie
 
That sounds kinda strange. What company are you dealer with? I know SBT does it this way;
Order your new motor from SBT, then, when it gets there, you have 10 days to remove everything from your motor and put it on the new one, then put it back in the crate and mail it back to them. It's really a great way to re-do your motor.
You'll need a gear puller to remove the PTO magneto etc...a gasket set for the carbs, exhaust etc...
You can look at the SBT website and on the page for your motor, they show you a list of other things you'll need.
Just remember, when you put your rotary valve back on, use a degree wheel with the MAG piston at TDC...........

I hope this info helps you decide on where to get your engine. The web site to them is " www.sbtontheweb.com " Check them out before you do anything.

Karl
 
That sounds kinda strange. What company are you dealer with? I know SBT does it this way;
Order your new motor from SBT, then, when it gets there, you have 10 days to remove everything from your motor and put it on the new one, then put it back in the crate and mail it back to them. It's really a great way to re-do your motor.
You'll need a gear puller to remove the PTO magneto etc...a gasket set for the carbs, exhaust etc...
You can look at the SBT website and on the page for your motor, they show you a list of other things you'll need.
Just remember, when you put your rotary valve back on, use a degree wheel with the MAG piston at TDC...........

I hope this info helps you decide on where to get your engine. The web site to them is " www.sbtontheweb.com " Check them out before you do anything.

Karl

Thanks will do.

I saw it on ebay. I will give you the link to look. I also wanted to correct myself it is just a 1 year warranty, not no fault like most places you see.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ame=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=&item=130244322207


Let me know what you guys/girls think!!
 
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Here is the deal breaker..."Joe" closes his doors in 2 weeks after you get your engine where do you go to get warranty work done? Real companies like SBT are huge and will be around for a long time to come. I don't like small, no name companies that offer an "almost too good a deal".

Just my opinion.

Karl
 
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:agree: I'd go with SBT or a similar large company. Go here for the engine itself, $845. You'll need to add a gasket kit and your mechanic will need to do the timing and pull the PTO for you, but he should have the tools needed to do that.

Spend a bit more with them on a "premium" engine and you get the gasket kit and 2 years instead of one year of fault-free warranty
 
Mrs

Here is the deal breaker..."Joe" closes his doors in 2 weeks after you get your engine where do you go to get warranty work done? Real companies like SBT are huge and will be around for a long time to come. I don't like small, no name companies that offer an "almost too good a deal".

Just my opinion.

Karl

Thanks for your honest opinion. I did not think of it that way. Makes perfect sense. I will pass your thoughts to my husband and let him make the smart decision. I believe for a little more it is worth it.
 
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Core

The reason they want your core is, they will rebuild it and sell it to the next customer. if the core is seriously damaged, they may charge you extra.

Avoid the eBay rebuilders, they use Chinese parts. an eBay account can be closed and reopened with another name in 10 minutes, so warranties are useless.
 
SBT is your best bet. I lost my engine on my new "used" boat after just a couple hours of riding. I bought one of their engines and carb rebuild kit. You remove your engine and stick it back in the box your new one came in. It's not a difficult task. My new engine blew ten minutes through break in. I called SBT, sent it back and they had me another one within 2 weeks. The customer service is great and the techs are too. I've spoken to them enough over the past month to confidently say that.
 
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