1995 XP Throttle Issue

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Shaynedwyer

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Hello All,

I'm brand new to the forum and brand new to pwc's so please bear with me.

I purchased a 95 XP last month from a woman who said everything was good with it. I bought it after testing it in the driveway of her house off a winterization. Always freshwater at a local lake near me. She had drained the fuel from it. Charged up the battery, gave it some gas, and it started right up. I had a buddy along with me who is a car and small engine guy who said it sounded good. We gave it some throttle and everything looked good. I used it two times about a week later and everything with it was absolutely great. Ran mid-grade gas through it no problems at all. On the second time taking it out, I had a buddy on it while taking it off the trailer and I pulled away. He started it up and by the time I got back down to the dock, he said it was dead. It was because the fuel selector switch had not been switched from off to gas so it starved and shut down. Don't think this plays an issue in this, but want to include all facts. Once we switched it back to gas, everything worked great.

It then sat for two weeks before I could get it out again. Midway through the ride, when I was out in the main channel, deep water, at full throttle, the engine studdered and lost power from 7000 rpm down to about 4000 rpm. Then, when holding throttle wide open, the RPMs were bouncing off of 7000 back down to 5000, then back up to 7000 and back down to 5000 almost like it is rev limited. At the same time of my initial power loss, I believe I saw something out of my peripheral vision shoot out to the back right of me, but I don't really know for sure. It could've just been my mind playing tricks on me. I thought I ran over something, but I did not see anything that I could've run over, again I was in deep water in the main channel, there isn't a whole lot just floating out there in that area.

I took the ski in and let it sit. Did a visual inspection on the prop and jet area and didn't see anything out of ordinary. Sat another week on trailer. Friend who originally helped me recommended mechanic in a bottle - I couldn't find it on the shelves so picked up some sea foam instead. Only used a small amount of sea foam, 2 oz, for the one gallon of gas and mixed that up before dumping it in to a tank that probably had about a quarter tank left. I took it out again with the most recent seafoam mixed gas I was probably at about under a quarter of tank by the time I was done so I don't even know if the seafoam made it into the system or is still in the tank. For about the first 30 mins it ran great, held full open throttle everything was good. Then it started acting up, and now at this point it is this. When I hold full throttle it bogs down pretty badly and there is a smell of fuel, it gets up to about 4000 rpm to 5000 rpm. When I hold half throttle I can get up to about 4000 RPM with no bogging, but no further. When I go wide open from there it goes up and then loses power and drops back down to 4000. I tried running on reserve switch and that made no difference.

It idles on the trailer at about 3500 RPM, in water at 1500 RPM. I've read that trailer idle is high, in water idle is good. I have read up on the fuel problem thread that's stickied and the ski does have the grey fuel lines. At this point I'm leaning toward some sort of fuel issue - I know I need to replace all the grey lines in there, and the carb probably needs to be cleaned out and re-built. Does that sound like I'm on the right track?
 
First off, never use seafoam or "mechanic in a bottle". It is bad for two strokes and will not fix anything. You were running lean from a dirty fuel system and or carbs and since you kept running it you might have damaged the engine.

First STOP riding it! Second check the compression before you do anything else.
 
Compression is 140 on both front and rear cylinders. Brand new gauge from advance Auto. Both plugs out while testing and both tested twice with same result.

My plugs are very dark. See the pictures. Front plug is darker than the rear plug. I did notice my front plug was a little loose, I don't think my buddy tightened it down all the way when we originally looked at it while buying.

Also, my trailer idle started at about 4000 rpm and then settled back down to between 3 and 3500 after about 20 seconds.

Imgur link
 
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I just buy genuine Mikuni kits from Amazon and ebay, part number MK-BN38/44-SPR . Make sure you get new needle and seats too.
 
Is this the right kit and is this a good price?https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTWV84/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1TFBK3C7LO58P&psc=1


Also, does the above kit include a needle and seats too? If not, can you please point me in the direction of what I need. I'm new to this and don't know what those specific parts are. Thank you so much for your help.

There's also this one. It looks like it has a few more gaskets?

https://www.amazon.com/Mikuni-Rebuild-Kit-BN38-40i/dp/B007RY2KBY

Edit, it looks like the OSD kit is the best kit for the price and includes the needle and seats too. It's on backorder, may just have to wait.
 
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Osd back ordered stuff usually comes in pretty quick from my experience with them. just ordered 4 base gaskets for my carbs just the other day and they showed as backordered the next day I got an email they were shipping. Contact them and ask what the wait time is might be worth the wait.
 
THe OSD kit is genuine and both Amazon ones posted appear to be too. THe first one is even sold by Mikuni. The amazon ones do not come with needle and seats.
 
Thank you all for your great feedback.

I am going to order the OSD kit as it appears to be everything I need at the best price. They have them in stock, just wasn't updated on the website.

OSD Sea Doo Complete Dual Carb Rebuild Package #2 [OSD1222] - $89.99

Two questions on the OSD kit

1) Do I need to add-on the needle arm pin set? I haven't even gotten the carb apart yet so I don't know the condition its in.

2) Should I upgrade from the aftermarket needle valve assemblies for the Mikuni one (says alcohol resistant, $15, I don't know if hat's for one or for two)

3) Is there anything else I need to buy?

For fuel line, I know I need to buy about 25'. I need the 1/4" line for the 95 XP, correct? Also, is it cheaper to find it online like Amazon or at a place like Advance or Pepboys? Is this a suitable one. Seems to be best price on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Inside-Diameter-Length-SAE30R6/dp/B00UVNYUUC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1529372516&sr=8-6&keywords=fuel+hose+1/4&dpID=4123tdSHaWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

And are these good for hose clamps?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Q7QVN...=1/4+fuel+line+clamps&hsa_cr_id=1669578280301

Also, my fuel gauge always shows redlight empty so I assume my float/magnet is no good. I haven't pulled the baffle yet because I wanted to do it all at the same time. Figure might as well replace the float. Is this a good float from OSD? I see I can also get the fuel filter add on for $6.75 when I buy the float so think I'll get that too.

OSD Sea Doo FUEL FLOAT - Improved Design fits Most 2 Stroke PWC & Boats [OSD1001] - $14.99

Hoping to order today after I get y'alls feedback. Thanks so much!
 
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Spent 8 hours Sunday working on it with a buddy of mine. Things went well.

Fuel meter is fixed, the old one was missing the magnets and the foam was brittle as all get out. New float from OSD worked like a charm.

The spring and arm were in good shape so I was good with that. I did upgrade to the mikuni needle and valves. The carbs were not too bad on the inside, but the filters were nasty. Straight black. See the pictures in the Imgur link. My buddy set the hi speed and lo speed to factory spec.

Replaced all the fuel lines and cleaned out the selector.

I replaced the fuel filter in the screw on cup underneath the steering. The o-ring was re-usable, but a little chewed up. The new one I ordered from OSD did not include one. Should I replace the o-ring? If so, where can I get the right one?

Gave it a good bath Monday and then took it out Tuesday morning. It was a little slow to start as my battery was low (didn't realize how much it drained while it sat for a few weeks), but ran well. Trailer idle was right at 3000, in water idle hover just below 1500. Warmed it up for a little and then worked my way up to wide open. Ran well and held just below 7000 RPM. I remembered it feeling like I went a little faster pre-rebuild, but it was close. What RPM should I be hitting with new lines and freshly rebuilt carb, a 200 lb rider, and smooth lake conditions? And if I'm under performing, what tune up can I do to get in the right spot?

Also, is there anything else I should work on? The VTS needs to be tinkered with, but I'm not too worried about that. I've been reading about replacing the oil lines, is that something I need to do? I don't think previous owners did much of any work on it, considering it still had the grey fuel lines.

IMGUR LINK

Also, as you can see in the pictures there are a few chips in the outer coating. What is the best way to go about repairing those? And there are some pretty bad brown stains, I assume sand stains, what's the best way to get those out? Pictures are in the link. I tried scrubbing with simple green, car soap, mildew remover. Nothing worked. My seat has some mildew as well, I srubbed the hell out of it with a brush and mildew spray, as well as simple green. Got some of it out, but it's still there.

Finally, I plan to update the gripping in the foot wells as the ones on there now are buckling and incredibly rough, especially on my knees when I'm climbing up on it in the water. Looks like Hydro Turf with adhesive is the way to go?
 
Do not reuse the fuel strainer o-ring and "chewed up" means it is sucking air and a good way to seize an engine. Also don't clean the selector as they too will suck air. The o-ring is a special square one and only available through Seadoo and OSD. Also get a new selector and not a cheap chinese one.
 
I just replace the entire strainer 275500088 $19.95. Selector 275500098 $24.75.

Prices are from Pro Caliber out of Washington, free shipping over $99. Their seadoo XPS oil is only $36 also.
Carb cleaner will destroy the rubber internal parts and leak air.
 
I had taken the ski out on Tuesday and ran it for about 20 minutes to test and things worked well. Took it out Saturday and when I hit full throttle, the thing just cut out completely. Like you pulled the kill switch on it. It runs fine at 4000 rpm, so I'm assuming I have a leak in the fuel lines. I'm ordering a new selector and a new strainer assembly, hopefully that will fix my problem.
 
Well in the time between that test above, replacing filter and selector, and then doing a new test Sunday, my oil lines broke and I unknowlingly ran on no oil and screwed up the engine. It was 15 mins maximum before it died but clearly did enough damage. Back compression is only 90 and front is 130ish. Should've just replaced those lines earlier. Incredibly stupid of me not to do so.IMG_20180710_111328.jpgIMG_20180710_111350.jpg
 
You also don't have anything holding your pulse line on. It looks crooked enough to be sucking air at the carb fitting.
 
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