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1995 XP fuel sending issues

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shattered00

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Here is the quick background. A month ago this ski was running almost perfect. I drove it for around 10-15 hours during a weekend. The fuel selector valve allowed me to turn past the points of reserve or fuel options with slight force but didn't seem to affect the ski getting fuel. Afterwards, I noticed a broken 4-pin Deutsch plug wire and replaced it few weeks ago and haven't run it on the water since. The jet ski cranked right up out of the water after the new connector was installed. It had slight issues with no throttle response maybe 5 times out of the whole weekend (i.e. I would press the throttle and get no response but when I let off completely and pressed it again the ski would respond with no issues). A specific example was when I was trying to dock on an EZ Port dock and the ski was tilted slightly up on the entry portion of the dock, I gave it throttle and it had no response (no RPM increase etc.). Also, it began to have issues staying cranked during idle where I would have to give slight throttle to keep it from dying and I thought the idle screw just needed to be adjusted. I didn't think much of it at the time, but now I wonder if it is related to the "new" problem?

Yesterday, I went to the lake and launched the ski but it would not turn over. The starter was trying just fine, and the battery was fully charged. Near the beginning of trying to crank it, the ski started once for a second at most and then immediately died. I got the ski out of the water, conducted a spark plug test which showed it was getting spark just fine. There was no fuel where the spark plugs were and the fuel filter assembly housing had very little fuel in it.

Obviously, the carburetors are not getting fuel. I have read on other posts here to check the fuel lines by detaching them and sucking fuel from the carbs manually to see, checking the pulse line, and a few other things like replacing the fuel baffle. I am hoping to narrow down what the problem can be without throwing unnecessary money at the ski. Any suggestions on what is the most likely problem before I jump into this things?

1) Carburetors rebuilt with Mikuni kit
2) Fuel lines all switched away from TEMPO
3) Newly rebuilt engine with about 15 hours on it
4) New aftermarket fuel selector
5) All of the stainless steel clamps on the fuel sender and the corresponding carb attachment points are tight
6) The aftermarket fuel filter (the inside mesh piece) that was new has already cracked in the plastic which appears to have been eaten away by the fuel
7) The component that the fuel filter sits in (housing) screws tight but had to work at it, so maybe it is not sealing properly - o ring appears to be in good condition and was new when I bought it during rebuild

TLDR:
Freshly rebuilt ski is not receiving fuel after it had been running mostly fine for several hours minus slight no throttle response last time it was on water occurring only few times during entire weekend. Is it likely that the problem could be the fuel filter housing that is not sealing which is allowing air in or is that probably too good to be true since that would be an easy fix?

Thank you for any direction on where to start.
 
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The aftermarket fuel selector and filter are known to be bad out of the box. Some things need to be oem.
 
There are two different fuel filters I am showing that are OEM and compatible with the 95 and 96 XPs. I have the aftermarket style pictured below in the 1st attachment titled "untitled2" , but the 2nd picture looks like it might be more robust version and according to the seller, it is compatible with my year models even though it has a different part number. What do you think?

Thanks!
 

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The first picture is the fuel strainer/filter. I buy the entire housing and everything for $25.
The second picture is the in carb filter and comes with the genuine Mikuni kits.
 
The fuel separator/filter and the fuel selector came in. Unfortunately it appears that I was duped as the items don't appear to be OEM. The seller had sold hundreds of these and had very high rating. The manufacturer of the items was even listed as "Seadoo." The cap on the separator says "Sunworld" and both items are made in Taiwan. The fuel selector does feel much lighter than the aftermarket one I had on so maybe that is a good thing?

I installed them both tonight and will try and fire up the ski tomorrow. The fuel switch is not as easy to move which is probably a good thing. Before, it took almost no force at all to switch from fuel to reserve etc. and also spun past its limitations with slight force and this one does not appear to do that. During the removal of the aftermarket fuel selector, the reserve nozzle broke off in the fuel line. Hopefully these parts from Taiwan are better.
 

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I replaced the fuel selector and fuel separator/filter and tried to crank the ski today, however, the fuel is still not pumping to the carbs. The fuel separator did not have any fuel in it nor did either of the fuel lines that I removed from the fuel separator. I tried both the main fuel setting and the reserve setting. Are there any tests that I can do to see if the fuel sender is bad? It is the OEM sender and the ski was working about a month ago albeit with some intermittent throttle issues which I now attribute to fuel having a problem making it to the carbs at that time. Thanks for any help.
 
I found this link for anyone that comes across this post and might have fuel sending problems. I will test it tomorrow.
"
  1. First, you’ll want to locate the fuel sending unit and sending wires. Potted into the side of the fuel sending unit, the wires are pink and pink/black. Follow these wires until you come to the inline 2-wire connector and then disconnect the connector.
  2. With the connector disconnected, you’re ready to perform a resistance test on the fuel sending unit. This is accomplished by connecting the Ohmmeter to the pink and pink/black wire terminals running to the fuel sending unit.
  3. With the Ohmmeter connected, you’ll want to record the resistance and approximate level of the fuel in the tank.
  4. Next, compare your readings with the following that are typical on a good sending unit:

  • 0-5 Ohms (Full Tank)
  • 45+/- Ohms (Half Full Tank)
  • 85-95 Ohms (Empty Tank)

If your Ohmmeter shows an open circuit or infinite resistance, the internal fuse is blown and the sending unit will need to be replaced."

Credit to jetskiplus.com which is where I found it.
 
If you don’t get any readings you can just jump the F1 fuse with solder and fix it, no need to replace it.
 
My 1995 SPX,has no fuel gauge in working order here,ski runs fine,I bye passed the fuel selector,set the pop off to 14psi from 25psi...she runs real good,,,,just have to fuel up everytime after a hot lap around the Lake
 
My fuel gauge works. Am I understanding the fuel sender/baffle wrong in that it really has nothing to do with sucking up fuel and getting it to the carbs ultimately and just is related to the fuel gauge readout? If that is the case, then I do not need to change mine (they have the new magnet floats in them FYI).

Just trying to understand why the ski ran good for a day or so, then had slight fuel delivery issues but still ran WOT no problem once it was going for minutes at a time and now no fuel is getting to the carbs which were rebuilt just a few months ago with the Mikuni kits. The fuel line going from the MAG carb to the fuel tank has been blown out and has no obstructions also FYI. Crazyness.
 
Yes, the baffle just has plastic tubes except for the old ones that have rubber that rots off.
 
Today I was running my regular hot lap at the lake,running fine until I made a sweeping righ hand turn,and bam,she died on me.I waited for 15 minutes to see if the motor was hot.Motor started up and Ran towards home on a low throttle,than died again...I made it back to the trailer....I think I will pull the pick up tube out of the gas tank and make sure the screen filter at the base is clear?
 
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