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1995 Speedster Port Side Motor stalls

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WillRyan

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I took my boat out today and it fired right up, no problems at all! Went riding around the lake, taking photos for photography. Then all of a sudden at 3/4 throttle the port side motor stalled. I shut down and checked a few things and tried to start back up. My Starboard motor started up no problem. The port side would turn over but didn't fire. I tried to idle back with the starboard motor and a loud buzzer would sound! If I tried to start the Portside motor first it would start the buzzer.

In the end I only had one motor(starboard) working so I decided to float in the lake and call a friend. After the boat cooled off I figured I would try and start everything back up and get closer to my friends dock clear across the lake.

It was a miracle, both engines fired up, port side had a little trouble but finally kept idle. I took off slowly and then once I was about to plane out I went about 3/4 throttle(maybe full) and the port side motor gave out again and I was back to floating in the lake until help arrived.

Anyone know what could be wrong? its a 1995 Seadoo Speedster with twin 85hp motors
 
Checking the compression is always a good start. What kind of maintenance have you done to the engines?
 
I've only had it for 2-3 months now so only making sure it always has oil in the reservoir and keeping it clean! This my first boat or any type of water craft.
 
You said it fired up after it cooled off. Maybe a cooling problem. You might start it and pop off the hose that goes from your head to the exhaust manifold and see if water is coming out.
 
Pull the sparkplugs and post a picture. It sounds to me like a carb problem. When the engine dies, does it just stop dead, or sputter and then die? It could be overheating, but it usually causes lack of power, not stalling. +1 on compression test (done in WOT)
 
I went out today after work to look through the engine compartment. I found a wire that was not connected together! Fixed that. I started the boat up dry for 2 seconds to see if they would start and they did! I pulled all the plugs an they seem burnt I've never really felt with bad plugs on anything though I'll post pics in a second. And from what I have read the continuous alarm means over heating. I will try to flush out the engines tomorrow or Friday!

Bare with me, I'm in the process of drying out the boat manual. It is soaking wet from sitting in the storage compartment with the gauges!
 
We still need a compression check. In the PWC/boat world... that's the equivalent of a Dr looking for a pulse in the emergency room.

It's good you found a problem with the wires, and the potential over heating... but if the engine is dead... it's a moot point.
 
Okay just did a compression test on the both motors with a Autozone tester if that matters. Port side (0 psi...110psi)
Starboard (120 psi...120 psi).

I know the average good reading is 145-150. what do I need to do? I would also like to try a different compressor test or have someone do it because even though the starboard motor reads low it still performs fine.
 
And to add. I took the boat out to see if it would run just for laughs. (this is before compression test)

Idled fine went past the no wake zone and went about half throttle plained out and took it easy. Made 2 wide turns and the port side started to loose rpms and drop to 3,000 and then it would rev back up to normal and then it finallly died and I slowly went back to the dock with the starboard motor with the buzzer going off again.
 
Did you do the comp test right after it stalled before it cooled off ? Did you try popping off the hose that runs from the head to the exhaust manifold ?
 
If the numbers you posted are correct, both engines are toast and I am surprised the port engine even started. A compression of 0 psi and 110 psi is very bad. Compression of 120/120 is not good either.

You need to do a compression test on a cold engine with throttles wide open, plugs removed and no oil in the cylinders. Re-do the test and let us know what your real compression is.
 
New readings with cold engine, throttle wide open, and plugs removed.
Port Side (2 psi.....135 psi)
Starboard (130 psi....130 psi)
 
Sounds like the compression is good enough to run Ok. Maybe start checking the cooling system.

This guy really knows what hes talking about! Start checking your cooling system because 2 psi is not a problem :lol:


On a more serious note, Your port side motor is shot. I would do a full rebuild on it. Your starboard motor still has some life left in it but I would fully rebuild it also at the end of the season.
 
Normal compression is 150 both cylinders within a few psi. A compression of 2 psi is very bad and says that cylinder is toasted. 130 psi is not that great, but it will run with limited power. Overall, it looks like you are looking at rebuilding the port engine and the starboard is on it's way out as well.

Until your engines are giving good compression, everything else is mute. I would however try to find out why you lost the port engine. It may be the carbs are running to lean, or the oil isn't getting into the engine, or who knows.
 
Didn't see the 2... . What exactly is 2... 130. If you have 130 then it's 130. Is it actually dipping down to 2 then back to 130. ? If that motor is at 2 it wouldn't even run as long as it does. It wouldn't even start. Mr. D
 
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This guy really knows what hes talking about! Start checking your cooling system because 2 psi is not a problem :lol:



On a more serious note, Your port side motor is shot. I would do a full rebuild on it. Your starboard motor still has some life left in it but I would fully rebuild it also at the end of the season.

Have another drink whiskey D
 
Have you even read prior posts Mr D. Look back and he says it fires right up. Runs for a while then nothing. 2 psi isn't going to get an engine running. And he motors in on the starboard motor with it buzzing. Which could be the port motor over heating.
 
I believe the op is stating that he is getting 2 psi on one cylinder of the port engine and 130 psi on the other cylinder of the port engine. With this type of compression, the one cylinder is toasted. The engine may start, but it will be firing on only one cylinder and will have no power. That is why when he tries to accelerate it bogs and stalls.

The starboard engine is getting 130 on one cylinder and 130 on the other. This will run, but is a sign that the engine is breaking down will require a rebuild soon.
 
Have you even read prior posts Mr D. Look back and he says it fires right up. Runs for a while then nothing. 2 psi isn't going to get an engine running. And he motors in on the starboard motor with it buzzing. Which could be the port motor over heating.

Please stop giving advice if you dont know what you are talking about. If you havent realized 2 stroke Rotax's are twin cylinder engines. Hence the 2 & 130psi stated. The reason the motor will start and run at an idle speed is because one cylinder still has compression. I've had a couple motors drop a cylinder and still start right up and idle rough.
 
Hey yall! I pulled apart the port side motor and OH MY! haha the c-clip that holds the piston to the rod was welded to the bearing. I already have a whole new cylinder exchange coming in from SBT and will have the seadoo running as soon as the parts get here!

I called the seadoo dealership that I bought it from(used) and talked to the mechanic that went on the test drive with us earlier this year. First thing he said was I probably lost oil to the engine and recommended I go to a pre-mix set up from now on. Not sure if he is correct but I will for sure figure out what caused the problem before I start up the new rebuilt version!
 
Very smart to find out the root of the problem. I would suggest keeping with the injection system since they are proven reliable with normal maintenance and will save you tons of money in oil. Let us know what you find as you look for the root.
 
Very smart to find out the root of the problem. I would suggest keeping with the injection system since they are proven reliable with normal maintenance and will save you tons of money in oil. Let us know what you find as you look for the root.

I agree, the oil injection system works very well if taken care of. It has many benefits over pre-mix. It meters the oil based on RPM and reduces oil usage, smoke, and fouled plugs. Just make sure the oil lines are not clogged, you are using the correct oil, and that the injection pump is working. Also check that the cable from the throttle to the pump is adjusted correctly. With a little care, it will save you big bucks in the end.
 
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