1995 Speedster driveshaft

[Raleighro]

Hello all,
I'm brand new to this site and first wanted to say hi. I just picked up a 95 Speedster and the port engine has what I assume to be a seized bearing because the whole shaft and coupling spin around when the engine is running. How would I go about getting that thing out of there so I can get it out on the water? Are there any tools or techniques I should know about?
Thanks in advance,
RJ

 

[Waterluvr]

Hello all,
I'm brand new to this site and first wanted to say hi. I just picked up a 95 Speedster and the port engine has what I assume to be a seized bearing because the whole shaft and coupling spin around when the engine is running. How would I go about getting that thing out of there so I can get it out on the water? Are there any tools or techniques I should know about?
Thanks in advance,
RJ

If the bearing won't slide forward and come loose pretty quickly with some penetrating oil and heat I usually pull the pump and cut the shaft off before the bearing and slide it forward and cut it again and pull it out from the engine bay, good used shaft or new aftermarket one is way cheaper than the labor to pull the motor and pump to slide it forward in the engine bay to get it out without cutting it.

You don't want to reuse a shaft that's had the bearing welded to it anyways, they are never right again.

They weld themselves to the shaft so bad most of the time you won't get it apart without damaging the shaft anyway.

 

[Raleighro]

Thanks for jumping on this so quickly. What do you have to do at the PTO end to release the shaft so it comes out with the pump? I'm thinking I'm going to go with a used shaft because it seems like a lot less labor that way.

 

[Waterluvr]

Thanks for jumping on this so quickly. What do you have to do at the PTO end to release the shaft so it comes out with the pump? I'm thinking I'm going to go with a used shaft because it seems like a lot less labor that way.

Hey RJ, normally it just slides right out the back of the pump housing through the bearing which is why getting your's out may be an issue and the reason I don't fool with it to long before cutting it loose if the bearing and shaft have married themselves for all time.

All you can do is try, if it doesn't want to budge just cut it loose and move on with a new one.

 

[Raleighro]

Hey Waterluvr, I got the starboard side jet pump out, and the shaft slid right out with it, so I'm stumped. Why would the whole assembly(coupling sleeve, rubber boots) be spinning with the engine of the bearing wasn't seized to the shaft? Also, I added a pic of the pump housing, the wear ring has a deep gouge in it and the impeller is dinged up on the fins. I'm guessing this means new wear ring and rebuild but do you think the impeller can be salvaged?
Thanks again,
RJ

 

[Waterluvr]

Normally it would be seized, but in your case I'm gonna say the through hull fitting came loose (that's the fitting inside the hull where the carrier bearing and protection hose mount). Those are tension fit and epoxied in place I can't see the pics you posted very well right now from the tiny phone screen but stay tooned when I get back in the shop I'll have a look on the PC.

Not a big deal either way that's usually an easier / lower cost fix but normally caused by a seized bearing.

 

[Raleighro]

I thought I would add a little more info. I reached up in the hole where the jet pump mounts and I can easily move that metal sleeve forward with my finger. Also, it appears the zerk is missing on that coupler as well. On the port side where the whole thing doesn't spin with the motor there appears to be a bunch of epoxy where the shaft goes through the hull, the port side doesn't have any of that visible.

 

[Waterluvr]

Ok, good pics RJ that pretty much tells the story of where you're at with it.

The way that system works is pretty simple, the aluminum through hull fitting is made to be stationary as it's epoxied in place and watertight while the protection hose and carrier bearing mount to it and seal the shaft as it leaves the boat. If those through hull's have spun enough to the point they are really loose in the hole you will need new ones as they are knurled on the portion that slips into the fiberglass hole and they may be worn smooth from spinning.

New carrier bearings will be needed to, if those are original they are long past their intended service life and might as well replace the hoses to you don't want any leaks from such a low cost part after doing all that work.

Check your shafts and make sure they are straight before putting it all back together and now's a good time to replace damaged wear rings as well.

 

[Raleighro]

Thanks again for all the info, it's made this much easier. I pulled out the carrier, as you said, it looks pretty "spun". Where is a good place to get the replacement parts, and what is a good epoxy to use? Do I just put the epoxy all over the knurled part and slide it in? also, my driveshaft is holding on to the impeller, is there something holding it on, or do I just have to pull hard?

 

[Waterluvr]

I use these to replace them: http://www.shopsbt.com/sea-1995-dsp/sea-doo-thru-hull-fitting-gt-sp-gtx-gts-292000075.html they have everything else you'll need to just enter your boat information into the drop down menu and select all types for parts and you'll see everything available.

If the new thru hulls are loose in the hole, I build the glass back up first with kitty hair and wrap the old thru hull in saran wrap and put it back in till the glass and resin dries then I use the original JB weld formula and coat the new fitting and tap it in the hole. The faster cure epoxies aren't as strong as the old school JB formulation at nearly 4000 psi bond strength.

 

[pwgsx]

Hold the drive shaft in your hand and gently tap the pump all around with a rubber hammer. It will pop off and is just stuck with corrosion. Sometimes a squirt of wd40 helps.

 

[Waterluvr]

Hold the drive shaft in your hand and gently tap the pump all around with a rubber hammer. It will pop off and is just stuck with corrosion. Sometimes a squirt of wd40 helps.

If that doesn't work just grab an impact socket large enough to slide down the shaft and hold the pump a few inches off the bench and use it like a slide hammer, it can take quite a bit of force to free the splines when they are corroded together.

 

[Raleighro]

ok, Thanks to both for the tips, I'll be back at it tomorrow and then I'm waiting for parts to show up.

 

[Waterluvr]

ok, Thanks to both for the tips, I'll be back at it tomorrow and then I'm waiting for parts to show up.

If you find any damage to those shafts send me a PM, I have barrels full of old shafts that were checked for being true and having good splines still and there may be a set left for a '95 I'll have to dig through them and see what's left.

I'm getting rid of all the 2 stroke parts for anything pre ~96 as we don't work on them anymore and you can have them if needed.

 

[hotrodssnova]

I use these to replace them: http://www.shopsbt.com/sea-1995-dsp/sea-doo-thru-hull-fitting-gt-sp-gtx-gts-292000075.html they have everything else you'll need to just enter your boat information into the drop down menu and select all types for parts and you'll see everything available.

If the new thru hulls are loose in the hole, I build the glass back up first with kitty hair and wrap the old thru hull in saran wrap and put it back in till the glass and resin dries then I use the original JB weld formula and coat the new fitting and tap it in the hole. The faster cure epoxies aren't as strong as the old school JB formulation at nearly 4000 psi bond strength.

I couldn't find that fitting for my 94 speedster. Are they the same?

 

[Raleighro]

I'm assuming they are the same. Like Wayerluvr said, you can always build up the hole with some fiberglass resin. These aren't factory replacements, you are just trying to make it watertight however you need to achieve it.

 

[Waterluvr]

I couldn't find that fitting for my 94 speedster. Are they the same?

Yep, I believe that will work just fine for you. How's that running for you? I recall that great how to thread you did on the MPEM conversion last year. :thumbsup:

 

[hotrodssnova]

Ok. Cool. It was running great till that bearing that slides into the rubber hose let loose. I have to pull it all apart and replace it. Seems that the clamp come loose and allowed that bearing to spin in the hose. Upon further inspection, the rear hose clamp has the rubber tube deformed where that thru hull sleeve should be. Starboard side is perfect and I can feel the sleeve when I push on the rubber. I was just about to go pull it apart tonight and see what I need to order.

Thanks for the kudos on that post. As far as the electronics go, they are performing flawlessly.

 

[hotrodssnova]

I have an updatate, as this pertains to the thread. I pulled the pump and driveshaft, the bearing was destroyed. It appears the bearing just fell apart. the shaft pulled right out and no damage was done.

The thru hull component is firmly attached to the hull, and the hose is firmly attached to it. the only way i will get the hose off is to cut it off. it is in really good shape, but i will decide when i get the parts. It's stupid hot here, and I only have time for a hour at a time.