1995 SeaDoo problem

[f2shooter]

Evening all,

I have just had a 1995 SeaDoo delivered to my front yard. I've known it for maybe 10 years and know some of it's earlier background. My youngest brother had access to it from his in-laws and later bought it from them. We would run it on Lay Lake near Birmingham quite a bit and it always performed well. It seems to run as high as about 50mph, fast enough for me anyway. It went next to my nephew who used it for two years and then to his brother in law who had it last year with no time on the water as far as I know. Life came along and my nephew wanted to sell it so now it's in my front yard. The problem? It won't run.

It is 2 cylinder Rotax powered. The carb was rebuilt 2 years ago and the job was done right. Fuel filter is changed regularly. I had to charge the battery and then realized there was no fuel in it. Five gallons of ethanol free fuel was added and I put in a new fuel filter. I first tried to start in my front yard using starting fluid and it fired right off but fuel isn't getting past the carb. Plugs are good and a thorough inspection showed no obvious problems. There is fresh fuel getting at least as far as the filter and seems to be making it to the carb. The fuel selector is set to Reserve for the time being. If I can get it running for more than 15 seconds there is a water hose already in place and ready to turn on. At least since the carb rebuild it has been on ethanol free gas and it has fairly new fuel lines.

So finally here is my question. Could this be something as simple as a stuck float? Is there a common problem among this era of Sea Doo? I have no manual for this craft and while I know it is a 95 I don't know what model it is or exactly what Rotax engine it has. It is low time especially for its age and everything seems to be well maintained. When I first started I got the standard double beep but now it isn't beeping at all though it will still start and run through the starter fluid. It has oil and there are no lights blinking on the panel. I'd like to take to Lake Martin for the 4th but would prefer it be in running condition. Any insights would be appreciated. Thanks.

Rick H.

 

[f2shooter]

OK I just realized I put this in the wrong place, should be in the PWC forum. Moderator could it be moved? Sorry for the mistake.

Rick H.

 

[eah600]

Evening all,

I have just had a 1995 SeaDoo delivered to my front yard. I've known it for maybe 10 years and know some of it's earlier background. My youngest brother had access to it from his in-laws and later bought it from them. We would run it on Lay Lake near Birmingham quite a bit and it always performed well. It seems to run as high as about 50mph, fast enough for me anyway. It went next to my nephew who used it for two years and then to his brother in law who had it last year with no time on the water as far as I know. Life came along and my nephew wanted to sell it so now it's in my front yard. The problem? It won't run.

It is 2 cylinder Rotax powered. The carb was rebuilt 2 years ago and the job was done right. Fuel filter is changed regularly. I had to charge the battery and then realized there was no fuel in it. Five gallons of ethanol free fuel was added and I put in a new fuel filter. I first tried to start in my front yard using starting fluid and it fired right off but fuel isn't getting past the carb. Plugs are good and a thorough inspection showed no obvious problems. There is fresh fuel getting at least as far as the filter and seems to be making it to the carb. The fuel selector is set to Reserve for the time being. If I can get it running for more than 15 seconds there is a water hose already in place and ready to turn on. At least since the carb rebuild it has been on ethanol free gas and it has fairly new fuel lines.

So finally here is my question. Could this be something as simple as a stuck float? Is there a common problem among this era of Sea Doo? I have no manual for this craft and while I know it is a 95 I don't know what model it is or exactly what Rotax engine it has. It is low time especially for its age and everything seems to be well maintained. When I first started I got the standard double beep but now it isn't beeping at all though it will still start and run through the starter fluid. It has oil and there are no lights blinking on the panel. I'd like to take to Lake Martin for the 4th but would prefer it be in running condition. Any insights would be appreciated. Thanks.

Rick H.

Sounds like carburetor. Did it sit awhile? Could be stuck float or plugged jet.

 

[f2shooter]

Yes it sat through last year and wasn't used at all. I'm thinking a float problem or a jet also. It ought not be a difficult problem as it isn't all that complex a system.

Rick H.

 

[eah600]

Ensure you clean them good. I would use a good carb cleaner, (Dunk Style) and blowout all the jets with compressed air. If you can get fuel into the carb sometimes the gas will dissolve the varnish and a couple of good high rev choke closes will pull the crab through the jets. One last thing, If you get it to run on a hose, but do not have power under load your main jets are plugged. Enjoy

 

[f2shooter]

I think I've found the problem and will attach a photo, please tell me what you think. First, though the registration says it is a 95 this is a 98 GS. Apparently it was worked on last by someone who probably shouldn't be allowed to drive. I pulled the carb out and discovered it doesn't have a float. Basically it is a big Walbro, not really of course but it isn't all that different. Underneath the choke and throttle brackets which had been left loose is what looks to me like an accelerator pump. It should have some sort of diaphragm it it to operate a spring loaded needle valve, correct? It doesn't. I suspect this is the reason the thing simply won't run. After looking at a photo of a carb kit, everything else is there but a rubber diaphragm shown is nowhere to be found. It didn't fall off, it is not lying on the bottom of the hull, it just isn't there. There is a SeaDoo dealership fairly close by and I think they will be able to get me the part. There is always ebay guess.

Rick H.

 

[eah600]

Yes there should be a diagram in there from what i can see. I would get a rebuild kit and rebuild the whole carb. The little lever thing in the base of the carb is the needle. If that is stuck you will not get any fuel.

 

[f2shooter]

Having finally gotten back to this job I was looking at jetskiparts.com and found what appears to be the right carb kit for this one. What honestly worries me now is the price, only $17 give or take a few quarters. That sounds kind of on the cheap side. I am wondering if this kit is leaving out some fundamental parts or if it is really that inexpensive for parts. The local dealer quoted me $49.95 just for the missing diaphragm so I have to wonder if he is just trying to stick it to me. I'll call JetSki.com tomorrow, I'd like to get it ordered so I can get it in the water before summer is over!

Rick H.

 

[squad1]

As you will hear and see in every carb thread, make sure you get a genuine Minkuni carb kit. I did mine at the beginning of the season, and heeded the advice. It's worth the little extra cost to not have to do it, and all the sync'ing twice...
The kit you are describing sounds aftermarket or not a full kit.

 

[SigEp368]

I have never dealt with jetski.com, but I have had good luck with OSD Marine.

 

[f2shooter]

I was on the phone this morning with jetski.com and he told without question that these are not OEM parts and that's why they are so much cheaper. I called the closest dealership and ordered a complete kit. It will be here Friday and with any luck I'll have it in the water on Sunday.

Rick H.

 

[SigEp368]

Good luck. Remember to find the right phillips head screwdriver, otherwise you will strip the OEM screws (I believe its a special chinese head). Also, if you are doing to keep the ski for a while, you may want to upgrade the OEM slotted screws with hex screws. You can torque hex heads down alot easier, which may help solve a pesky air leak you find during pop off testing.

Also, it probably goes without saying, but remember your threadlocker. I forget threadlocker on the needle valve lever assembly reraining screw, and the while thing came apart on the lake... flooding my engine.

There isnt alot of information in the manual to help with reassembly, so if you get stuck, let me know and I will send you the instructions that came with my carb kit.

 

[SigEp368]

Also you may want to verify if your kit includes the pre-formed o-rings. Done say these don't usually go bad, but mine did. It is definitely worth the $20 to replace them now, otherwise you have to go back in after you find air leaks during pressure testing.

 

[f2shooter]

I got the Mikuni kit in yesterday and put the carb together. Using the diagram that came with the kit it was simple enough and it's pretty obvious where each layer goes. Anyway I got it all together and put it back in the ski this afternoon. It hasn't made much difference though it seems to be pulling some fuel, still runs down the starting fluid prime and dumps smoke all over the place. I did notice today though that the oil light is on now, I thought earlier that it had not been on but it is. Is there a safety device of some kind that keeps it from running when the oil level is low? It would make good sense and of course it should never be run oil free but I wonder if some kind of a safety was built in to keep people from burning up engines when not paying attention to oil levels.
Here is a more obvious question: What is the correct oil to use in this ski? As I've gotten no paperwork with it and it has been a while since I used it I don't recall which oil is correct. I know I found it once at WM and it's a pricey oil but so what. I'll stick to the better or best grade oils and not try save a few dollars, it is a critical component and getting junk can quickly spell the end of a perfectly good engine.

Rick H.