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1995 seadoo GTX

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what are the factory settings on carbs as far as fuel air mixture. My carbs were rebuilt but I think one side is leaned out too much cause it burned a whole threw my back piston can any one help I just installed new sbt premium engine and need carbs chech a.s.a.p. shop said 6 weeks
 
Welcome to the seadoo forum David. The High Speed screw adjustment is "0". It should have a plastic cap on it and a slot in it for a screw driver. Check the adjustment and put the cap back on it. The cap will only let it turn 1/4 turn either direction. The Low Speed screw has a pin through it to allow you to use your fingers to turn it. The starting adjustment is 1 1/2 turns. The idle speed is NOT adjusted with the low speed screw. You need to adjust the carburetor idle so the speed adjust touches the adjustment plate. Turn the screw 2 more turns. after it is running adjust it to a proper idle speed if needed. On the water it should idle at 1500 RPM's. On the trailer is should idle at about 2500 RPM's. I hope this helps you out.

Karl
 
uh... yes it is David. Those adjustments are for the low, high and idle speed adjustments.

Karl
 
carb adjustments

did not see plastic cap but found screw with letter H with slot for screw driver would this be high speed adjustment there in the same place on each carb
 
Mirror....

You'll need a mirror to do this. With the boat in gear, push the throttle all the way forward. You won't be able to see them if you don't. Then, with a mirror, look under the bottom of the carbs, where the cam rollers are for the butterflies. There, you will see a thrub screw for each carb. This is your low speed screw. It must be set in accordance to KustomKarls procedures. There is one for each carb.

The high speed screw is on the top side of the carbs. You shoudn't need to adjust this.

The most important part of this set up is to ensure that your carbs are syncronized with each other. If you have one opening before the other, that's going to have one running the engine leaner, since it will be trying to catch up with the other one...........The procedure to syncro is fairly simple, but to ardrous to type out into the forum.

These procedures are in the library shop manuals..........Good luck:cheers:
 
This is the best way...

Welcome to the seadoo forum David. The High Speed screw adjustment is "0". It should have a plastic cap on it and a slot in it for a screw driver. Check the adjustment and put the cap back on it. The cap will only let it turn 1/4 turn either direction. The Low Speed screw has a pin through it to allow you to use your fingers to turn it. The starting adjustment is 1 1/2 turns. The idle speed is NOT adjusted with the low speed screw. You need to adjust the carburetor idle so the speed adjust touches the adjustment plate. Turn the screw 2 more turns. after it is running adjust it to a proper idle speed if needed. On the water it should idle at 1500 RPM's. On the trailer is should idle at about 2500 RPM's. I hope this helps you out.

Karl

David, if you need better directions than this I have an idea for you.
If you want you could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too.

Karl
 
thanks for your help the carbs are off and sitting in my lap. the lower screws are set at a half turn out the upper screws are set at one and a half turns out here is the deal this guy no names works at seadoo shop in houston rebuilds my carbs on the side seadoo runs good for about 3 tanks of gas and oil give or take alittle and suddenly bike runs good out of water but only starts and barely revs in water until it dies out. Lasy week it pops and wont turn over I get it home and piston has hole first thing my guy says is carbs are to lean here is my number call if you can walk me though the steps 713 824 8087 Thanks for your time I almost have every thing on new engine and ready to install
 
Manuals....

Now, as a premium member, you'll be able to understand what we are talking about when we say, syncronize. You cannot do this with them on your lap. You'll have to install them to the engine.

First, your carbs....the BN-38, have a low speed screw on the bottom, with a thumb twist. This must be turned in till resistance is felt. Then, open one full turn, to 1 and 1/2 turns. What concerns me, is that it sounds like the black plastic caps on your high speed screw have been removed. If so, then this is probably the reason you burned a hole in your piston. The high speed screws are set from the factory and not to be adjusted. They do put a plastic cap on them that will allow you to turn them about 1/4 turn either way. If they were removed, then whoever removed them is probably the one that leaned out that carb and burned the hole in it.

Being a premium member, I need you to go to the Manuals section and open the manual for the 1995-1996 jet boat, listed for the Explorer. This manual has the same 657cc engine that you have. So use this book for engine procedures.

Go to page 6-03-02 and read the chapter on syncronizing the carbs and adjusting them. Also, read up on all the cautions in adjusting the "high speed" screws.........I think this is the heart of your problem. If those caps are off, there isn't much I or anyone else can do. These are considered set at "0" with a 1/4 turn either way with the plastic cap on. It doesn't mean the needle valve is at "0", it means zero by the factory stand point.:cheers:
 
is there some one I can send them to and get checked out I think Its miner problem with the settings the guy who rebuilt them is a certified mach. he is in school in st louis or he would be fixing the problem. all the shops around here say 6 weeks I wont be able to buy gas for it in 6 weeks .the bike ran great had good throttle response, fast ,lots of power and top speed about 45-50 mph the idle the idle was a little low and he had me adjust the screw with a t- bar threw it until idle went up
 
Manuals....

David, did you read the procedure in the manual? If so, and your still having a problem understanding, let us know.

Print those pages in the manual before sitting down in the forum so we can help you better..........
 
i found the screws that should have plastic covers over them they are both half turn out the other screws with the t-bar are one and a half turn out
 
High speed screws....

And I'll assume the plastic caps are off of them..........so, because you had a hold burn through a piston, I'd open the carbs high speed, on the side the bad piston was on, an 1/8 to a 1/4 turn more. Then, put the carbs on the motor with the sync bar disconnected from the PTO carb or both.

You'll have to sync them. When you put the carbs on, the carb on the magneto side (mag) will need to have the idle stop screw (which is a small screw and spring on the side to stop the throttle plate from closing all the way) turned out till it's just barely not touching. Then, after you do this, both carbs should be at zero on the motor. Look into the throats, make sure the throttle plates are laying flat.

Then, take your sync bar and set it up to the pivot balls. If it's perfectly aligned, then you can just snap it back on. Check the position of the throttle plates again. If they are still closed, then go on to read the manual about syncing your oil injection pump.........
 
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