hi everyone....i have a 1995 seadoo gtx, i just got. the battery i replaced, but the engine just cranks. i used a spark tester, and see no spark....i think maybe the mpem fuse may be blown? where do i go from here..is the mpem the next step? how do i access the mpem, it's mounted along the sidewall, do i have to remove the fuel tank to get access....please help
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1995 seadoo gtx
- Thread starter shynherbk
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Welcome to the seadoo forum shynherbk. That year didn't have a mpem, it has a module. I would make sure the lanyard key is working and has a good connection. The Lanyard swithch is normally open. When you connect the switch it connects to ground. Inside the Electronic module is a 5 amp fuse. You could check that and see if it is blown. I hope this helps. Keep us posted on your progress.
Karl
Karl
There are 3 wires in the coil area in the electrical box. 2 for the ignition coils and 1 for a ground...is it grounded. Follow it out of the electrical box to its grounding source.
Karl
Karl
now what do you think...
the ground stud in the electronics box was loose, i tightened it and put it back, i got a spark. the engine cranks....i tried spraying engine starter into the carbs and into the sparkplug ports no help....will not run.....i got a buddy coming over later to take a look...could i have a weak spark? i used an inline tester, the bulb lights up....the spark plugs are new and gapped correctly to .050 mm......please any advice is greatly appreciated
the ground stud in the electronics box was loose, i tightened it and put it back, i got a spark. the engine cranks....i tried spraying engine starter into the carbs and into the sparkplug ports no help....will not run.....i got a buddy coming over later to take a look...could i have a weak spark? i used an inline tester, the bulb lights up....the spark plugs are new and gapped correctly to .050 mm......please any advice is greatly appreciated
If you had spark and primed the engine with starter fluid, it would a least fire several times. I would say you have no spark now. It could be bad plugs, but it would be rare to have both fail unless they were fouled when the machine was last winterized. It is wise to keep spare plugs on hand, so if you don't have any you might want to get some and try that first. If you had spark before and it is gone now it is likely a bad connection in the ground lead (Smaller wire) on the battery negative terminal. That battery terminal should have two wires on it. A large "starter" cable and a smaller "electronics ground" wire. The wire at the terminal sometimes breaks because it is flexing a lot at that point. If that wire is not making good contact the machine will crank but not fire.
Let us know,
Don
Let us know,
Don
First don't shoot starter fluid in the cylinders it will cause a seizure. Starting Fluid has no lubrication value in it and is mostly alcohol. Use a little fuel and oil to premix and dump a little in the cylinders down the spark plug holes. Don't bother squirting in the carburetors. Be sure you have spark. The correct plugs are NGK BR8ES Gaped to .5mm or .020 in. see if it will fire now. Pull the plugs and see if they are real wet. If so Put the plug caps on the grounding post so as not to cause an electrical problem from ignition coils. Turn over the engine to get rid of any excess fuel or starting fluid in the cylinders. Dry the plugs and put them back in the cylinders. Pull the choke and see if it will fire up. It should if it is getting spark and fuel. Keep us posted.
Karl
Karl
okay were making progress
i found the sparkplug boot was bad, when i put gas in the spark plug holes, and put spark plugs back in, with a screwdriver, grounded to the sparkplug tip and boot, it fired. i know i need a carb rebuild...i see fuel seeping from the carb fitting, and the butterflies don't look too good, and it seems to be fuel starved. in addition, my oil bath lines are broken- i think thats what the call the forward and aft thin ziti pasta looking lines toward the bottom of the engine. my buddy told me that i should just deactivate the oil injection, but i got to find details on how to allow the oil bath to remain a closed system, and install a blanking plate by the carb...any thoughts on how to go about this, or where to find details- its a 1995 seadoo gtx....compressions good, about 145 psi....also i found a few small black pieces of plastic, by the exit of the impeller, on the back of the ski, do you know what thats from?....and last but not least, where can i get these parts cheap-
1 throttle cable, 2 carb rebuild kits, 1 air filter, 2 spark plug boots?
thanks again for all the help
i found the sparkplug boot was bad, when i put gas in the spark plug holes, and put spark plugs back in, with a screwdriver, grounded to the sparkplug tip and boot, it fired. i know i need a carb rebuild...i see fuel seeping from the carb fitting, and the butterflies don't look too good, and it seems to be fuel starved. in addition, my oil bath lines are broken- i think thats what the call the forward and aft thin ziti pasta looking lines toward the bottom of the engine. my buddy told me that i should just deactivate the oil injection, but i got to find details on how to allow the oil bath to remain a closed system, and install a blanking plate by the carb...any thoughts on how to go about this, or where to find details- its a 1995 seadoo gtx....compressions good, about 145 psi....also i found a few small black pieces of plastic, by the exit of the impeller, on the back of the ski, do you know what thats from?....and last but not least, where can i get these parts cheap-
1 throttle cable, 2 carb rebuild kits, 1 air filter, 2 spark plug boots?
thanks again for all the help
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