1994 Sea-Doo XP (hopeful) Resurrection

[DDK]

Hi There!

My name is Dan, and I'm a boataholic, and not always the brightest or least impulsive bulb on the tree. I've always wanted a jetski of some sort, but never got around to buying one. When I had the chance to grab a 1994 Sea-Doo XP with unknown motor woes, I thought "why not". I figure the wheeled trailer thing with bunks for the hull is worth what I paid for the whole package. The seller is from the same town as me and has no reason to lie, he said he thought the mag side bearing was shot. I figure it's a chance to learn and tear the thing down. I have experience with boats, motorcycles, dirt bikes and cars so I expect I'll be able to figure it out. Worst case; looks like a newly rebuilt engine is ~$800, or an engine - bottom end is ~$250 (if my top end proves to be good, although I'd do rings anyway if it's apart).

So... it's been sitting outside but covered for quite a while. She's in rough shape, but looks like she'll clean up good. Previous owner had a couple parts taken off and steering disconnected, but said everything is there. I believe him. First step is to roll it back out of the garage (got it late last night) and to clean her off. I figure some spray and very light pressure washing will clean it up quite a bit.

My gut says the next step is to tear it down and pull the engine. That's probably what I'd do if it were a motorcycle. Does this seem like a sound plan, or are there some things I should do first? I thought about connecting a battery to see if everything lights up. I suppose I could try to turn it over, the previous owner did, so whatever damage that will do is already done.

So, should I get the motor out and bolted to the bench, or are there some things I should do first?

Thanks,

Dan

 

[mikidymac]

First step is clean it.

To get started just soap and water on the outside.
In the engine compartment Castrol SuperClean and water.

I would see if you can turn it over by hand before connecting a battery to it to see if it is locked up.

Never jump start them with a booster or booster pack.

Just 12 volt battery even a car battery as long as the car is not running or you will fry the computer.

Also post pictures, lots of pictures.

 

[DDK]

First step is clean it.

To get started just soap and water on the outside.
In the engine compartment Castrol SuperClean and water.

I would see if you can turn it over by hand before connecting a battery to it to see if it is locked up.

Never jump start them with a booster or booster pack.

Just 12 volt battery even a car battery as long as the car is not running or you will fry the computer.

Also post pictures, lots of pictures.

Thanks!
Flywheel cover is off. It turns over smooth as silk, and the top of the pistons look good through the spark plug holes. I have hope!

I attached pics as I got her. I will take and post more once I have her cleaned up.

 

[DDK]

Also, I get the no jump start. No reason I can't use cables to connect to my (not running) lawn mower batter though, correct? I can't see how that would be any more amps than swapping the battery machine to machine.

 

[mikidymac]

The mower would be fine just make sure you don't accidently cross or short the cables. But your starter is not even attached to the engine.

You need to make sure the starter works and is bolted back on with it's rear support bracket that also looks to be missing.
Then the next step would be testing compression.
1. Plugs out and wires on the provided ground lugs.
2. Fuel off.
3. Throttle wide open.
4. Crank until the compression tester stops climbing.

150 psi is perfect 120 is time for a rebuild. No more than 5 psi difference between cylinders.

 

[AKnarrowback]

Welcome to the group. There are lots of good resources to call on here with an excellent knowledge base to back it up.

You could have a gold mine or a nightmare there depending on how you approach things. Take your time and the chances of having a fun runner will be much higher.

First thing is, yes, clean it up so you can get a good look at what you are dealing with.

DO NOT boost the battery. You will hear this many times. The reason for this is the electronical module gizmo that helps control the function of the machine can be damaged and that will just add to your problems.

There are two main parts that make this thing move, a pump and motor. When doing trouble shooting in certain situations simply remove the pump and drive shaft. Some people fight a rough starting motor, bad engine bearing, etc only to find out they ran the jet pump dry and that is keeping things from spinning.

At the point you are at now a charged battery and a compression tester are a good start. Simply see what the compression looks like on both sides. If the compression looks good then drop a pop bottle lid of gas in each cylinder, put the plugs in, put the tether cap on and give it a quick tap to see if it fires off. If it fires shut it off asap. This gives you an idea if the motor might be useable as is and that your electronics are working. You have not confirmed oil injection yet, this is why we only ran it for a split second.

Pull the cone off the back of the jet pump (it's held on with three 8mm head bolts) and see if any oil comes out. If water comes out that isn't good, but not a disaster, yet. If orange rust dust comes out then it's time for a pump rebuild.

Do these few steps and give us a call back.

I rebuilt an identical XP and it's my daily runner in the summer. It was VERY neglected when I got it and did a full crank, bore, pistons, pump rebuild and some custom handy work to make it go again. It runs perfect now.

Have fun!

 

[AKnarrowback]

Note as well.

There are two types of seadoo 657 motors. A 657 and a 657X. You have the X. It was only used in a couple of models and has some differences from a 657 motor that prevent all parts from the two models to be interchangeable. Pipe, rv plate (if memory is right) cylinders are a hair different, carb setup.

Anyone else chime in with differences.

 

[AKnarrowback]

Ha! Got the pictures to load.

Getting the starter in would be a really good place to start.

Why does the previous owner think the crank bearing is going bad?

Since the front cover is off can you see any rust, dirt, corrosion evidence in the flywheel area?

 

[DDK]

A lot of great info here, thank you all so much! I have my work cut out for me doing what was suggested here after work tomorrow! I'll put the starter in tomorrow. I am not sure why the previous owner thought the bearing was bad, that's just what he told me.

I don't see anything too scary in the flywheel area. Picture attached.

Again, thanks a ton for the guidance! I will follow through with all the advice in this thread after work tomorrow.

 

[mikidymac]

The oil in the bottom of the magneto housing makes me think if nothing else you have a bad crank seal.

The good news is that the previous owner was using the good seadoo oil so that is a win.

 

[DDK]

Bummer on having a bad crank seal! How much of a nightmare is that to do?

On the bright side, she cleaned up pretty good! Still have some water lines that need to go, but I'm not going to worry too much about pure esthetics like that until I have a runner. She's clean enough to lean on and work on for sure. Pics attached.

In the meantime, I have other issues. There is an aftermarket starter attached. I am assuming the one that was loose in the engine compartment is an old one, or the intended replacement for the one in place. I figured best way to find out was to connect power and try to turn her over.

Drove tractor up to SeaDoo. Hooked cables from tractor to Doo. Nothing. Put the kill switch key type thing (what's that called?) on, nothing. Fuel gauge stays pegged empty, etc. Push the starter button, nothing. It's as though I didn't connect power at all. I opened up the gray electrical box and checked both fuses, the 5A and the 15A. Both are fine.

What's the next step? I anticipated a bunch of issues, but this wasn't one of them.

Thanks,

Dan

 

[mikidymac]

Most if not all the aftermarket starters are junk.

You can confirm the engine cranks by connecting the cables correctly then jumping the starter solenoid posts with a screwdriver or pliers. It is the metal piece that the two heavy battery cables are connected to inside the electrical box. It will send battery voltage directly to the starter.

 

[DDK]

Most if not all the aftermarket starters are junk.

You can confirm the engine cranks by connecting the cables correctly then jumping the starter solenoid posts with a screwdriver or pliers. It is the metal piece that the two heavy battery cables are connected to inside the electrical box. It will send battery voltage directly to the starter.

Thanks. Turns out something was up with my cables, gave it another go before physically moving the battery and it turned over for half a second. I let go of the button immediately since the ignition housing cover is still off, and I didn't want to risk anything.

Looking at my pile and bag of parts, it appears I do not have the o-ring for the ignition housing cover. I'm guessing that stops me dead in my tracks until I can get one, correct? Would it be a bad idea to turn it over more to get a compression test with the cover removed, or (more likely since it'd keep things from being sucked in) attached without the oring? If this will cause additional damage I'll just order the oring and wait, but I hate the thought of stopping now while I have some momentum.

Thanks again!

Dan

<EDIT: I found the missing oring. Will put said cover back on and see about compression. Then to remove cone from rear of jet pump and see what comes out there. Feeling hesitantly optimistic now that she's now turning over off of the button!>

 

[mikidymac]

You don't need that cover to check compression.

 

[AKnarrowback]

The cover is just to keep things (water, battery, lost tools, dead squirrels) out of the motor when it's getting thrown around on the lake. Sitting in one spot on a stand is not going to hurt anything running without the cover, just be careful once it is going.

The white starter not attached to the motor is an original seadoo starter, hang on to it, even used it is still worth more than a brand new aftermarket starter. It's worth putting a rebuild into and using.

The machine cleaned up nice. Now I'm getting amped to get my XP in the water but work has me tied up for a couple of weeks.

 

[DDK]

Tried to turn her over today off the tractor. Turned way too slow to fire, I think the battery from the tractor is too small. Will try again with cables to the truck battery tomorrow.

 

[DDK]

The cover is just to keep things (water, battery, lost tools, dead squirrels) out of the motor when it's getting thrown around on the lake. Sitting in one spot on a stand is not going to hurt anything running without the cover, just be careful once it is going.

The white starter not attached to the motor is an original seadoo starter, hang on to it, even used it is still worth more than a brand new aftermarket starter. It's worth putting a rebuild into and using.

The machine cleaned up nice. Now I'm getting amped to get my XP in the water but work has me tied up for a couple of weeks.

All good info, thanks! Post some pics of your XP when you clean her up and get her ready for (or better yet in) the water! Any chance the aftermarket starter is the reason she's turning over so slowly, not the battery? I plan to connect her to the truck battery today, so I guess I'll know more then.

 

[jts32]

I would just invest the $50 and get yourself a new battery for the ski, your eventually going to need it anyways. Too much hassle messing with jumper cables, and trying to get good connections. Could possibly be the starter. I would definitely replace it with an OEM. The aftermarket junk will leave you stranded.

 

[AKnarrowback]

Most of the aftermarket starters that have failed on me started with them not cranking fast. It could be a sign of a bad starter.

What color is the starter on the machine right now?

Take the white starter and give it some voltage, see how it spins. Take the negative cable and attach it to the case of the starter, tap the positive cable to the small post sticking out if the side of the starter. Make sure you have the starter pinned down because it is going to give a good torque roll if it is operating properly. Also be sure to have a nut on the threads of the positive post, when you tap it there will be some arcing that could damage the threads.

Trouble shooting is only going to work well if the voltage source is working right. Make sure the battery you are using is charged up and in good working condition.

 

[AKnarrowback]

Last ride at the end of last season. The last owner gave me the machine. It needed a full top and bottom rebuild as well as a pump rebuild and a lot of patience to get it dialed in. Cosmetics aren't top notch but it runs perfect. I have more into it than I could sell it for, but I never plan on selling it.