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1993 xp 657 engine removal question

Is there any way to just remove the engine without removing the pump and driveshaft? I need to rebuild my carbs and because these are impossible to pull out with a wrench OR pulling all 4 bolts off the rotary cover, i wanted to just lift it slightly so that i could get that last rotary cover bolt that is next level nuts to get at and pull it apart. How anyone does this without the engine out is beyond me as it's so tight and everything if felt by hand (if you can even get that hand in there under the oil pump level arm.

thx
 
I have had luck removing the carbs, if I take the muffler off first. Mine is two piece but I take it out as one unit.
 
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Is there any way to just remove the engine without removing the pump and driveshaft? I need to rebuild my carbs and because these are impossible to pull out with a wrench OR pulling all 4 bolts off the rotary cover, i wanted to just lift it slightly so that i could get that last rotary cover bolt that is next level nuts to get at and pull it apart. How anyone does this without the engine out is beyond me as it's so tight and everything if felt by hand (if you can even get that hand in there under the oil pump level arm.

thx
I’ve taken multiple engines out without removing the pump, I kept track of the shims and put it back the way it was? No issue’s. Many will say that you need to align with the alignment tool after this, I don’t disagree, I just didn’t.
 
Is there any way to just remove the engine without removing the pump and driveshaft? I need to rebuild my carbs and because these are impossible to pull out with a wrench OR pulling all 4 bolts off the rotary cover, i wanted to just lift it slightly so that i could get that last rotary cover bolt that is next level nuts to get at and pull it apart. How anyone does this without the engine out is beyond me as it's so tight and everything if felt by hand (if you can even get that hand in there under the oil pump level arm.

thx
I recently spent a lot of time struggling with the nuts that hold the carbs onto the rotary cover. Although I spent a lot of time trying to avoid it I ended up just unbolting the engine and laying it on its side inside the hull so I could actually see what I was doing. I’m sure with the proper tools it can be done without doing this, but without them it’s not easy.

Once the exhaust is out of the way all u have to do is unbolt the 4 motor mounts and the driveshaft simply slides right out when you pull the engine forward. When you’re done you just slide it back on and bolt the motor back down.
 
I recently spent a lot of time struggling with the nuts that hold the carbs onto the rotary cover. Although I spent a lot of time trying to avoid it I ended up just unbolting the engine and laying it on its side inside the hull so I could actually see what I was doing. I’m sure with the proper tools it can be done without doing this, but without them it’s not easy.

Once the exhaust is out of the way all u have to do is unbolt the 4 motor mounts and the driveshaft simply slides right out when you pull the engine forward. When you’re done you just slide it back on and bolt the motor back down.
Not sure if that’s a statement or a question but yes I have unbolted a couple of engines slide them ahead, undid my oil lines, throttle cable etc. and pulled the engine out, I just kept very good track of how many shims went where, bagged them and tagged them, don’t neglect this, label the the bags well, port rear, port front, starboard rear and starboard front, all seperate bags. Also make sure the driveshaft bumper is on when you slide it back into position. Again, many will say you need to align the engine with the alignment tool and they may be right so do so at your own risk, lol. But it worked for me a couple of times. Now if the machine was having any issues that could be cause from a mis aligned engine then I would definitely be aligning it but if not it worked in my cases.
 
For all the readers, before I pull a seadoo motor, I clean each motor mount area and bolt.
Then I take scribe, and carefully scribe around the bolt as close to the bolt as possible, and as far “around” the bolt as possible.
I then take pictures of the bolts and mounts.
I do not normally touch the 2 13mm bolts holding the mount to the hull, they can be very difficult to losses.
So far 25 years later,, no issues.
 
I haven't worked on skis older than 1995 so never had a problem getting the carbs off. This was interesting reading.
 
I haven't worked on skis older than 1995 so never had a problem getting the carbs off. This was interesting reading.
you have no idea what a PITA it is. What were they thinking? Newer models have the hex bolts holding them on like they do on my Tigershark 770. Easy peasy. this is a nightmare. spent hours trying to get one last bolt out and only way is to tilt the engine up. Some say they can do it, but they must have midget hands
 
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