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1993 seadoo GTS won’t rev

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cfirenze315

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Have a 1993 GTS with the white 587 engine, I cannot get it to rev out properly, in or out of the water. It starts and idles fine, no odd sounds or shakes. But when you try to rev it up at all, it sounds like it’s hitting a rev limiter and bogs/skips.

The top end has been replaced and compression verified. Fuel lines are new. Has new BR8ES plugs that are properly gapped. The rotary valve is set properly at 115 degrees with mag side at TDC. I’ve tried pulling the fuse for the rectifier and nothing changed.

After running it at idle and attempting to rev it up, the plugs were wet/black, so I rebuilt the the carb and noticed the jets in it were 142.5 main / 65 pilot. I replaced them with what it calls for stock, which is 125 main / 67.5 pilot. The pop-off pressure is also set properly. Low speed fuel screw is set 1-1 1/4 turns out, high speed fuel screw is at 0. Put new plugs in it, and still has the exact same symptoms.

I even have an additional MPEM that I tried to swap in it, and have the exact same symptoms with both. I also trimmed the plug wires to rule that out as well.

Truly at a loss at this point. It’s getting gas (apparently too much gas), it has good spark, and have ruled out the obvious electronic things. Again, starts and idles without issue, just cannot rev it up past a quarter throttle without it sounding like it’s hitting the rev limiter and bogging down. The symptoms are identical in and out of the water as well.

Seeing mixed reviews on rev limiters on them, is that even a thing? Any other suggestions?
 
The rev limiter is controlled by the MPEM & it's possible to bypass the module for testing. If you do this it will also delete the kill switch function, you'll need to choke the engine to shut it off. I believe there's a black/red wire to be disconnected from the MPEM that bypasses it - this wire still needs to be hooked to the ignition coil to run btw.
 
Have now tried BR7ES plugs since that’s what the manual calls for (had BR8ES in it), and a new rectifier.

There has been zero change in symptoms after attempting the following: new top end, new plugs (colder and hotter), rotary valve at 115 degrees and 130 degrees (115 is what the manual calls for), new rectifier, new MPEM, adjusting fuel screws, trimming spark plug boots back.

Feel like all that’s left is stator, stator timing / ignition timing or pick up coil. Again, primary symptoms are hitting the rev limiter at about 1/4-1/2 throttle. But starts perfect every time and idles perfect.
 
The ignition coil is combined with the CDI on this system - I'm referring to the part that the plug wires are attached to.
 
Thanks for clarifying. I don't believe that has been replaced. I did confirm it does have spark though, but maybe it is weak spark. It starts up without an issue every time, and idles perfectly fine. But, I could see where a bad coil causing weak spark condition would result in issues as you try to increase RPM's.

I also have read the stator can cause issues at times too, specifically either the timing of the stator if it wasn't aligned properly when replaced (this was done before I had the ski), or if the pick up coil for the stator has an issue. Was kind of saving this for last due to the hassle of getting the fly wheel off to get to the stator (and previous owner stating it was already replaced).
 
It's unlikely that the engine would start & idle normally if the timing was off by much. If the problem is electrical, the coil (stator or ignition) could be breaking down as the load increases. It could be a poor connection, check those wires carefully! Replacing the external coil would be where I'd start before pulling the magneto stuff apart. Good luck, sounds like you'll need it.
 
If you buy new electrical parts, try to go OEM. Aftermarket parts don't seem to stack up well...most of the time
 
Ignition coil did the trick. Had spark before so I didn't think twice about it, but apparently weak spark.

New issue now that I've been able to get it on the water is it keeps snapping the exhaust pipe bolts. I think I had everything tightened way over torque spec. So I loosened the engine mount bolts, manifold, and exhaust pipe all to hand tight, then torqued to spec.

Hoping for better luck next attempt.
 
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