• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

1992 sea doo gts

Status
Not open for further replies.

443jeffmc3814

New Member
Hi everyone , I just bought a 1992 gts 587. When attempting to start the jet ski it will crank very slowly.and very labored. if i remove the plugs it turns much faster.The battery is brand new fully charged. I also noticed that the protective hose (#20 on the diagram) turns as I attempt to start the engine. Is this supposed to spin ? here is a picture of what is spinning (attachment) . The engine doesn't crank fast enough for me to get a reading on the spark tester. Any suggestions on where to start the process of elimination in order to get the gts started would be appreciated. I have made sure all of the grounds are clean and tight . Do I have to remove the exhaust in order to replace the starter and coil ?

thanks
Jeff
 

Attachments

  • jet ski problem.jpg
    jet ski problem.jpg
    110.8 KB · Views: 79
Last edited by a moderator:
hi. not exactly sure what your problem is but I do know that on my HX, that rubber boot that you are pointing to is not supposed to spin. On the hx the left end of that protective hose is a double lip seal that runs on a raised lip of the drive shaft and keeps the water from coming into the hull from the intake.
again not familiar with your model but usually anything with hose clamps on wont spin because its not balanced.
 
Hey Jeff, welcome tho the forum. The part you are referring to is the protective boot for the drive shaft. That shaft goes right into the flywheel and when you are turning the engine over it should turn, but not the boot.

It could be possible that it is bent at that point and hitting the boot, but most likely it is not tightened down very good or something has gotten it there causing it to spin with the shaft. I would try to slide that boot back to see if it's stuck to the shaft or if anything is in there.

Start with a compression test on the engine, just to rule that out. If all is good there then make sure that the pistons are moving freely when starting and there are not binding up in the cylinders.

If could be that your starter is weak and not letting it turn over as fast when you do have the spark plugs in.
 
Thank you for all of your suggestions. I will start with the compression check as suggested. What would be an acceptable compression reading and for how long? I searched the 1992 manual and couldn't locate what the compression should be in the technical spec section. If the compression is ok, I will then try to slide the protective hose back and inspect. Grease and see if that helps. Finally, I will replace the starter. Should the solenoid switch be replaced while I am at it ? From looking at the shop manual it looks like several specialty tools are required if I have to replace the carrier seals and pump assembly. It looks like it might be more than I am able to do myself. Does anyone have an idea of what it would run to have the carries seals and pump rebuilt at a shop would cost ? Just a ballpark to make sure I am getting a fair deal. I know it depends on the extent of the rebuild. I am also thinking how much should I put into the 1992 gts . I Paid $1,300. for 1 1992 gts , 1 1993 gts and a 2001 sea lion double trailer. The 1993 starts and runs great so far. Just looking for some advice. I have never owned jet ski's before ..... Thanks again everyone
 
Hey Jeff. Generally on a stock engine, perfect would be 150 in each cylinder. If your under 100 or if the two cylinders are not with in 10% of each other than it's time for a top end rebuild.

Might as well replace the solenoid will your in there.

Most dealer charge around $90 an hour for any service they do, if you can trust them, most of them you cant, but that will be your call.

Grease her up and see what happens then go from there. :cheers:
 
1992 sea doo gts spark issues

nswillin .... right on ! you were a big help in suggesting i tighten the clamps on the protective boot. I tightened the clamps and greased it up and replaced the starter and it is turning over strong. Now the problem is no spark. After reading the posts here and looking at the diagrams i cleaned all the grounds and cut back the plug wires a 1/4" installed a fully charged battery . Still no spark. Today i opened the electrical box and checked the 4 fuses all is good. (except i broke one trying to reinstall the darn thing) All connections are good tight and clean. The inside of the box looks like it had never been opened. I jumped the starter solenoid and the engine turned over but with a spark tester attached no spark at the plugs. I bought a digital multimeter and continuity tester from harbor freight and trying to figure out how to use it. Being a newbie I was wondering if you might have another suggestion before i take a week studying how to use the meter to measure ohms and d/c current stuff. The engine is turning over very fast and sounds good. any suggestions would be appreciated ... it gets cold here in the Annapolis Maryland area with the wind blowing off the bay working on my jet ski ..... did i damage anything by jumping the starter solenoid thingy in the electrical box ?
 
Hey man. Glad I could help out. I wouldn't recommend jumping that too often, could wear out the leads and not to mention the dangerous spark with all the gas fumes around. Jumping the solenoid isn't really going to tell you anything about the spark, just if it is getting power to turn the starter.

So you got a meter, cool. There are a few test you can do for ignition system.
Most of the time the rev limiter from mpem goes bad and this will cause no spark. Disconnect the black/red wire and see if it will start, if you got spark then it's the rev limiter.

Also there are two relays in the MPEM one is for charging and the other is for the ignition system.

They are the same, just different functions. try switching these and see if you have spark, if you do the ignition relay is bad, it is the one near the module center.
 
older mepm wiring / new superseded has more wires

thanks again for the info... i removed the red/black and no spark... switched the relays around and no spark ......double checked all the connections and no spark...replaced the fuses just for the hell of it and tested and no spark..... any other simple tests before i replace the mpem.....

thanks
jeff

if i do end up replacing the mepm i have read that the new replacements have more wires ..... mepm old model / rev limiter/ wiring
rev limiter / mepm old model
after reading the posts and doing some testing it looks like I need to replace my Mepm on my 92 gts white rotax .... the part number is 278000200 i read it has been superseded by part # 278000070 ... from the posts i have read in this form the wire count is different and wire connections are different .. can anyone help me with which wires to combine .... I have not removed the old unit yet but the wires are as follows ....... 2 red ....1 red/white....1 purple .... 1 yellow/red ... 1 black/yellow .... 1 black/white .....1 black ....1 black/red .9 total .... any help would be greatly appreciated .
 
Remove the spark plug boots and check the windings to see if they've been burnt down. That may be your only issue.
 
Unplug the black/red wire between the mpem and coil and see if it starts. If it does, you have an issue with a switch or the rev limiter in the mpem. If it doesn't, the stator or coil are the places to look. Also, if it does start with that unplugged, be prepared to kill with the choke since the stop and lanyard buttons are bypassed.:cheers:
 
boy now what have i gotten myself into 92 rev limiter bad

Thank you for all the suggestions.. i disconnected the black / red as a few of you suggested and got spark...i bought a mpem or rev limiter / relay / whatever it was called back in 1992 ... the original part number for the module was superseded by 278-000-070 .. now here is my question and situation... any any help would be greatly appreciated ! here is what i am looking at :

I have a 92 gts 580 white engine. I wasn't getting any spark and after tightening and cleaning all connections i started testing the rev limiter . After removing the red/black wire I started getting spark. From what I have been reading here that was an indication of a bad mpem (in 92 it was really a mpem from what I am told.) So i found the original part number and found out it had been superseded by 278-000-070 . I bought a new 070 mpem and noticed the wire count and colors are different. Can anyone help me with how to reconnect this module ? The old style had :

2 red fuse wires
1 red/white
1 purple
1 yellow / red
1 black / yellow
1 black /white
1 black
1 black / red

the new 070 part number has :

1 red with female connector
1 red with a ring connector
1 red / purple female connector that has a purple lead coming off of it with a female connector
1 red / yellow with a male ring connector
1 black and yellow lead with a female connector with a black / white lead coming off it
1 black /white lead with a ring connector
1 black connector with a ring connector with a black another black ring connector coming off it
1 black connector with a male connector

wow ! now that i have typed all that can any one tell me which one connects to what ?

* I'm thinking the black with the double ring connectors goes to the ground and the coil ground. the red with the larger ring connector goes to the solenoid ...1 red goes to the rectifier ... after that I not sure .... any one experienced this difference in wiring and can assist a newbie ? thank you .. do i have to cut off the ring connectors and change the size of the ring connector if for example the yellow / red lead goes to the rectifier .. and where the heck does the black with the male connector go ? Oh and the yellow / red goes to the clip on the solenoid and the new one has a ring connector and no clip . do i have to change the connectors ?
 
Meter (-) Lead Meter (+) Lead Value Wires Connected To
Black Black/Red or White 300 k ohm MPEM/Engine Rev Limiter
Black/Red or White Black 150 k ohm MPEM/Engine Rev Limiter
Black Black/White (ring terminal) 500 k ohm Solenoid
Black/White (ring terminal) Black 1 M ohm Solenoid
Black Black/Yellow 30 k ohm Stop / Tether Switch
Black/Yellow Black 34 k ohm Stop / Tether Switch
Black Yellow/Red 100 k ohm Solenoid
Yellow/Red Black 1 M ohm Solenoid
Black Red/Purple 1 M ohm Buzzer
Red/Purple Black 100 k ohm Buzzer
Black Red (ring terminal) 1 M ohm Battery (+)
Red (ring terminal) Black 1 M ohm Battery (+)
Black Red (female terminal) 1 M ohm Rectifier
Red (female terminal) Black 1 M ohm Rectifier
Red/Purple Black/Red or White 600 k ohm CDI Module
Black/Red or White Red/Purple 1 M ohm CDI Module
 
thank you to everyone who give me some input on the mpem wiring and stuff. I appreciate it . as it turns out the only thing i had to do was cut off the ring connectors that were on the new mpem red/yellow and black/white and install a female connector and male connector respectively . after doing so i rechecked all my connections and grounds and it turned over with strong spark. Since they;'ve been sitting for 2 years the next step is to change the oil and gas along with new filters and see if they fire up . at least i have good spark now. so thanks again everyone

Jeff

any tips for trying to start a ski that has been sitting for a long period of time ? I have sprayed some lube into the spark plug opening to lube the the pistons ... anything other tips would be of help thanks
 
Bout it....

No, just what you did should do it. Putting a dab of lubrication on all the moving parts, internal and external will be good service. Make sure all your cables and pump parts are free to move/spin as they are suppose to.

I just read this thread and it looked like a lot of info. A lot of the times, we over look the simple things. With skis that age, the 12 volt direct current system takes a toll on connectors. I would also recommend that when given the chance, un-snap all your connectors, one at a time and apply a small bit of die electric grease to help slow the corrosion and therefore, keeping components from losing power or grounding out.:cheers:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top