1992 587 sp not starting

[faasnu]

I recently got a 1992 bombardier 587 sp. It has the 580 white motor. When I try to start it, the engine just cranks and will not fire. I took off the spark plugs and the engine cranks great. Compression test reads 140 and 138 psi.

After cranking the engine a few times, I take out the plugs and they have this brown/black oil on the end of the plug. I cleaned the oil off the plug and put them back in. When I do this I can get the engine to start sometimes for half a second and then is just turns off. I take out the plugs again and they have the brown/black oil on them again.

When I got the jet ski, I noticed it had 2 grey tempo lines. I replaced them with black fuel lines.

I then took out the carburetor and looked at the little fuel filter and it is clean. I also noticed the surfaces between the carb and intake pipe was uneven causing the gasket not to seal properly and could have been leaking fuel/air. I evened out the surfaces so the gasket sealed. Reassembled carb and engine still does not start.

Using a spark plug tester I can see there is spark(however I am not sure if it could be weak spark or not?).

I disconnected the inlet fuel line and put a funnel with gas in it and cranked the engine. Fuel was being sucked in so I assume the fuel pump is working.

The jet ski is converted to premix(oil injection system bypassed).

I have compression, fuel, and spark, why won't this jet ski start?

 

[Dr Honda]

Well... You have kind of checked the basics... but there are some others on these engines.

1) Clearance in the rotary valve. If is't badly warn... it won't run.

2) Timing on the rotary valve, and is it spinning? (If a tooth is missing on the drive gear... it will hop)

3) Timing on the ignition.

4) OK on the carb filter... but did you check the rest of the carbs? (Verify everything)


Also... you found a problem.

1) The gray stuff on the spark plugs is a problem. If it's wet... it's putting out the spark. (doesn't take much) On these engines... you could have a leaky RV, or crank center seal... and that will put a lot of extra oil in the engine... and it needs purged out before you have any chance of it starting.

 

[RodInEscondido]

The 580 engine (yellow one for sure and probably the white one also) has crankcase drain plugs at the bottom of the engine under the carb/rv cover, one for each cylinder. Remove these to check for and drain stuff out of the bottom of the crankcase.
Rod

 

[faasnu]

The 580 engine (yellow one for sure and probably the white one also) has crankcase drain plugs at the bottom of the engine under the carb/rv cover, one for each cylinder. Remove these to check for and drain stuff out of the bottom of the crankcase.
Rod

I just removed the drain plugs and bunch of black oil came out. With the spark plugs out as well, I cranked the engine until no more smoke came out.

I connected the drain plugs and spark plugs back on. Engine still does not start. However I still get the gray oil stuff on the spark plugs. I still get a good spark even with that stuff on it.

1) Clearance in the rotary valve. If is't badly warn... it won't run.

2) Timing on the rotary valve, and is it spinning? (If a tooth is missing on the drive gear... it will hop)

3) Timing on the ignition.

4) OK on the carb filter... but did you check the rest of the carbs? (Verify everything)


Also... you found a problem.

1) The gray stuff on the spark plugs is a problem. If it's wet... it's putting out the spark. (doesn't take much) On these engines... you could have a leaky RV, or crank center seal... and that will put a lot of extra oil in the engine... and it needs purged out before you have any chance of it starting.

1) I assume I can check clearance by following the manual?

2) How would I check if the rotary valve spins? Do I need to remove the carb and rv cover and crank the engine?

3) According to my timing light, the light shines when it hits the 1 mark on the PTO flywheel.

4) I checked the side with that contained the needle valve as well, but I did not take off the needle valve, I just pressed on it a few times and it seemed to move ok. Check valve seems okay. I didn't see any green stuff in the carb.


For some reason the previous owner deleted(its not there) the fuel filter/water separator? Right now the fuel system is just a fuel line straight from the gas tank to carb inlet and another line from carb outlet to gas tank. I don't think that would prevent the engine from starting though?

Another fuel line goes to a black box in the very front of the jet ski and tee's off on another clear line up into the steering system somewhere.

Also the 2 rotary valve lines(1 on each side of engine) are capped off. Well one of them is capped off with a cap, the other doesn't even have a cap on it, its just open . Since the jet ski is converted to premix, is this set up correctly or is there supposed to be some kind of lines connected there?


I tried putting some premix directly into both spark plug holes to bypass the carb. Still does not start or fire. I even tried spraying starter fluid in the spark plug holes and the engine just wont start.

 

[faasnu]

I connected the rotary valves oil lines on and filled the oil tank with oil. I can now get the jet ski to fire more frequently and can get it to run for about 2-3 seconds now. Is the rotary valve toast since these lines were not supposed to be closed off from oil?

What should I do next?

 

[Jacks3am]

Pump some of the old gas out and put some fresh gas in. My sp did the exact same thing, and new gas did the trick!

 

[faasnu]

I already added new gas mixed with API-TC 2 stroke oil at a 40:1 ratio into the gas tank.

Still can't get this jet ski to run any longer than a few seconds.

 

[faasnu]

2) Timing on the rotary valve, and is it spinning? (If a tooth is missing on the drive gear... it will hop)

Took off the rotary valve cover and the rotary valve shaft does not spin at all when cranking the engine.