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150 Speedster trim adjustment
- Thread starter Premix
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xintersecty
New Member
Trim bow up and run it for a while to see if you like it. The difficulty is skiping and bouncing.
pete63
Active Member
xintersecty
New Member
From the picture, that is underside of the pump. I did a bunch net searching, i have not seen that version of the pump before.
Premix
Active Member
That's an elongated hole. There's a little insert that can be turned around so the steering pivot bolt can be in offset in one of two positions. Take the bolt out, turn the insert around, put the bolt back in, and now your steering nozzle has a new trim angle. Easier done than said.
What you're saying is interesting since the service manual shows this adjustment on the top side, but clearly mine's on the underside. Regardless, I'm just glad mine came in the 0-degree position with the option of a bow-up position.
xintersecty
New Member
I wonder if this will take care of your bow swamping issue. Tonight when I get home, I am going to take a look at my pump too.
incognito2428
Active Member
Iv'e never seen this. Is this custom made?
ID62
Member
Hi fellows, which position gives you the best top speed and which is for the best performance. Any expert around here in the forum? Good feedback is really much appreciated.
Btwy, I have since this year a Utopia 205 (year 2006). The nozzles are open on the inner side. Anybody here in the forum who tried normal nozzles on the Utopia 205 (as it is at the Speedster 200)? I'm wondering if it has influence to the top speed. Currently it runs real 80 Km/h (measured with GPS).
Btwy, I have since this year a Utopia 205 (year 2006). The nozzles are open on the inner side. Anybody here in the forum who tried normal nozzles on the Utopia 205 (as it is at the Speedster 200)? I'm wondering if it has influence to the top speed. Currently it runs real 80 Km/h (measured with GPS).
Ok,,, Here is the deal with TRIM. Keep in mind that the picture above is a MECHANICAL trim and does not move once set.
As a general rule, you have it set to BOW DOWN when at very low speeds and just taking off. This gives the most thrust as the water escaping the tunnel presses against water, not shooting out the back and up in the air. Thus,,, thrust. If you are playing at some what slower speeds and doing turns and what not, all the way down to a little bit up is where you want trim.
The fast the boat/ski gets going the higher you want the trim. This causes the bow to raise above the water level. So, less boat is in the water. Sine there is less boat in the water, you will gain speed.
Slow = Down
Fast = Up
As a general rule, you have it set to BOW DOWN when at very low speeds and just taking off. This gives the most thrust as the water escaping the tunnel presses against water, not shooting out the back and up in the air. Thus,,, thrust. If you are playing at some what slower speeds and doing turns and what not, all the way down to a little bit up is where you want trim.
The fast the boat/ski gets going the higher you want the trim. This causes the bow to raise above the water level. So, less boat is in the water. Sine there is less boat in the water, you will gain speed.
Slow = Down
Fast = Up
xintersecty
New Member
I finally got a picture of my pump. It has the same two position trim adjustment. I have a 2006 challenger
Premix
Active Member
Ok, I used it in the bow-up position for the first time and I liked the first impression. The water was unusually smooth and I was by myself (I'm used to carrying at least one passenger). It seemed to get on plane quicker and it didn't porpoise. Maybe with some chop there might be more porpoising? I might fabricate another insert that gives a more modest bow-up position to compare.
xintersecty
New Member
I would love to put a trim adjustment for my boat. I sometimes look at rings on EBAY and think about what it would take to mod the trim into the nozzle.
Premix
Active Member
I'm right with you. I've often thought the cable operated trim from a 94XP might be a good concept for the Speedster.
xintersecty
New Member
Post 61 showing the trim ring on the challenger: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?43101-Porpoising-C180-Trim-tabs-or-pump-wedge/page3&highlight=trim+ring
ID62
Member
I’ve checked the shop manual for the 150 Sportster and for the 205 Utopia 310hp. The Sportster has the adjustment nozzle down and the Utopia the nozzle up. Is there any reasonable reason for this? Is it due to the longer hull that the Utopia can manage the nozzle up position much better? Actually on my Utopia the nozzle is in the down position. Same as it was on my former 150 Sportster. Can somebody with a 205 Utopia check the nozzle position at his boat? When I bought the boat, lots of settings and adjustment where wrong and it was impossible to stop the boat or backing into the dock. Now it works fine since I’m adjusted all misaligned settings. Just curious if there will be some changes in the different nozzle setting. Perhaps the last boat mechanic did the wrong adjustment. Current top-speed is 49 – 50 mph.
Thanks and greetings form Southwest Germany.
Ingo
Thanks and greetings form Southwest Germany.
Ingo
Eclipse1701d
New Member
Ingo. I will check for you this weekend... However, I do not know if mine is correct or not. I purchased the boat in May. What I do know is that at idle, my boat goes 2-3MPH and trying to reverse into a dock is such a nightmare that we pull in forward and then manually turn the boat around...
xintersecty
New Member
What happens to the boat when in reverse? Maybe we can help. I know when you steer left (port) the boat will turn left. Maybe your reverse bucket is at the wrong angle. What does it do in neutral?
xintersecty
New Member
I would get that fixed. Reverse on these boats is very precise and works well for docking. It has always done me well.
pete63
Active Member
sounds like too much free play with the cable, you can adjust or trim the bucket up or down to a correct position.
saying all that a 150 seadoo is very tricky to reverse, slight movement of the helm and a 180 is completed!!
ID62
Member
Hello, I might be able to help those who have difficulties with backing the boat. I figured out the same during the first ride with my Utopia 205 (310hp) and I checked the revers bucket immediately after this happening. Somebody has tighten the 4 screws at the revers bucket such strong that they never went into the full down position. More or less 1/3 to ¼ of the nozzle was still not covered and the water beam went straight backwards. At the same time also the throttle shifter was very stiff and a friend of mine was even worry to operate the throttle. Fact is, the revers bucket should be in the full down position with slightly some play to the upper position. You can check this when you lift up the buckets by hand and let them go. They should go into the full open positon by their own weight. Once I fixed this, it is a total different boat. Very agile and precise to steer.
I found also that the throttle position sensor (TPS) wasn’t opening the full way. I tried to adjust it at the cables, but the idle rpm’s went also up. Then I check if I can do adjustments and the throttle shifter but there is nothing. Only one steel plate is a stop. And there you can use a file to give the TPS more way to open without increasing the idle rpm’s. I got some extra rpm’s at WOT.
I found also that the throttle position sensor (TPS) wasn’t opening the full way. I tried to adjust it at the cables, but the idle rpm’s went also up. Then I check if I can do adjustments and the throttle shifter but there is nothing. Only one steel plate is a stop. And there you can use a file to give the TPS more way to open without increasing the idle rpm’s. I got some extra rpm’s at WOT.
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