15 GTI SE 130 | Resonator melted

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Dailylimit

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Hey all,

Looking for a bit of advice here. I've been the owner of 2015 GTI SE 130 for about 4 years now. I have about 220 hours on it (trouble free up until now). I mainly use it for fishing. I decided to try a new lake this past weekend. Unfortunately I did not realize how bad the weeds were on this lake. Despite trying my best to avoid them, the ski ingested a rather large amount. I realized this after the alarm went off and a warning flashed on the dash indicating something to the effect of "high exhaust temperature." Opening the front storage compartment I saw exhaust fumes billowing out.

At this point I was out in the middle of nowhere, wind was starting to pick up, and had about 400 ft to get back to the landing. I limped back to the landing with the alarm at full blast just praying It would make it without too much damage. I unlatched the seat and slid it back in order to get the wind to help cool everything in the engine bay while limping back.

About 10 ft from the dock, something began to sound different. I looked down and saw that water began to enter the engine bay from where the "front formed exhaust hose" meets the resonator. I quickly killed the engine, roped it off to the dock and ran and got the truck and got it out of the water. By the time I got it out maybe had a couple of inches of water in the hull which I drained.

From reading forum posts it doesn't appear that I am the first person this has happened to. I like to do a lot of my own car repairs, maint etc so I'd like to try to fix this myself and save some money. My question is (not having a lot of boat repair experience) .. what other areas do I need to inspect on the GTI for any damage?

As of right now the only areas I can find that appear damaged is where this hose connects to the resonator. The plastic melted right off the resonator and fused to the inside of this hose creating a large opening for the water to come in. The engine appears fine and starts right up. I have since removed the intake grate and removed all the weeds that were wrapped around the drive shaft. Looks like there is a little bit wrapped around the prop still when looking at it from the back (with the IBR gate lifted) but 99% of it seems cleared.

Another question ... I was always under the impression this was a "closed loop cooling system" and did not believe any lake water came in to cool the system on the SeaDoos. I know now that this isn't the case ... lake water does come in to cool the exhaust system. So my question is .... (and maybe I'm not searching this correctly) but where does the water enter the system for cooling? Since water was coming in at the resonator I assume this is where?

Is there anywhere else I need to check for any clogged weeds in the system? After replacing these two items I just don't want to go out on the lake and have this happen again because I missed something. Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated!

As a sidenote .. in the future definitely will be bringing a collapsible oar.
 

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Your holes in the header pipe are most likely blocked but first check the water flow from jet pump is clear that’s if you got the overheat alarm
Header pipe Has three holes to cool the exhaust system they block up very easily
Picture below

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In the jet pump at the top left there is a big plastic nut, that is the filter for the water that cools the exhaust system. Remove it clean it and replace the damaged parts, you ran out of water to cool the exhaust. The holes in this filter are small enough you don't have to check any of the hoses for debris.
 
Just curious if someone in the same emergency situation got out of the ski and cleared all the weeds from the intake grate and carried the same bilge pump and hoses he uses to pump antifreeze into the exhaust system could he back flush the exhaust system using the bilge pump if the intake screen was blocked?
 
Thank you all. Will try to tackle this, this weekend. Will post updates / pics of the progress if it will help anyone else out in the future.
 
Just curious if someone in the same emergency situation got out of the ski and cleared all the weeds from the intake grate and carried the same bilge pump and hoses he uses to pump antifreeze into the exhaust system could he back flush the exhaust system using the bilge pump if the intake screen was blocked?
I'm pretty sure you wouldn't be able to make the pressure from a bilge pump to backwash that filter, however you might be on to something and it might be worth a try. I just bought a 2000 liter per hour bilge yesterday to blow sand out from when i am stuck to refloat my boat in the sand and it does make decent pressure, I wonder how many psi the pump runs at on these skis ?
 
Best thing to do is remove filter disconnect lines and flush the in both directions
Pull the exhaust header pipe and make sure the three holes are clear
Brackish water causes these holes to block up I damaged a new resonator in the exact same way as you have now
 
I'm pretty sure you wouldn't be able to make the pressure from a bilge pump to backwash that filter, however you might be on to something and it might be worth a try. I just bought a 2000 liter per hour bilge yesterday to blow sand out from when i am stuck to refloat my boat in the sand and it does make decent pressure, I wonder how many psi the pump runs at on these skis ?

If the inlet screen was plugged there would be no pressure in the hoses coming from the pump but exhaust gas pressure [ ski running] to keep water from the aux bilge pump from entering all the bad places we don't want water. I can't think of anything bad happening to the ski. This would only be practical if you were stuck in the middle of nowhere with a exhaust overheat, but if I fished in weeds a lot might come in handy. The pump at idle pressure on the the screen like you said might prevent the backwash of the screen but if things got dire you could backwash for a few seconds with the motor off.
 
Alright .. so I didn't get as far as I wanted last weekend but was able to pick back up again today.

I have the IBR system removed. Digdog, is this the big plastic nut that you are referring to on the pump? I unfortunately don't have a wrench large enough to fit, so will have to pick one up if this is it.

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I assume here this would be the inlet screen that is mentioned (below picture).

Inlet screen.JPG

This side of the impeller really didn't have any weeds. It was really thick in the front. Do you all still suggest to replace this filter?

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I was able to remove the head pipe assembly from the exhaust system. I found those three holes that were mentioned. I have some small screwdrivers and was able to run them through each hole fine. It didn't feel like any of them were clogged at all. I took the head pipe assembly down to the laundry tub and ran some water through the elbow fitting. Water freely shoots out of each of the holes so I think I'm good here.

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The only part I'm not really sure about would be the temp sensor for the exhaust. I'm thinking this doesn't look normal. Can anyone confirm?

View attachment DSC_0120.JPG
 

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Yes that is the filter, if you take it out there are a bunch of tapered holes in it that can be plugged and not let water into the cooling system , the filter holes are small enough that any orifices down stream will not get plugged. That sensor is toast.
 
Hey all,

I got all the parts replaced and took it out to the lake for a quick test. I just kept it at the dock and removed the seat to keep an eye on things. Ran the motor for about 10 minutes in the lake.

The alarm never went off and no smoking. I take that as a good omen. However I noticed one of the two clear plastic tubes was squirting water out of one of the elbows. (picture below) Is this normal behavior? Or should I be concerned? After seeing this, I decided against taking it out on the lake for a run.

Reading a post, are these siphon tubes for the bilge system? I don't see a bilge pump in there.

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Check this area of the jet pump the two small tubes are part of the bilge water removal system and work on a Venturi effect
Check round the tubes for sand or shell pieces they are preventing the ventury from working as the nozzle pressure is forcing the water up the bilge water removal pipes
 
Don’t those two elbows need to be suspended with zip ties as high up in the bilge as possible? The pin holes are vents. That’s what all the extra hose is for.
 
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