12V Low Message and Blinking Maint. Light

[TSmith]

Well guys, I seem to be the problem child around here these days. Just got my new to us 2000 GTX RFI in the water for the first time today. Started right up, but after 30 seconds or so of riding, the dreaded 12V Low message starts blinking in the info center and the maint. light starts flashing. Otherwise seems to run fine. Could this be just a bad battery or is it likely the rectifier has gone bad?

I bought this ski from a marina/dealer who had taken it in on trade. I test drove it on the lake there for a good 30 minutes and had no issues at all other than the speedo not working. It has been sitting in my driveway ever since I purchased it about a week and a half ago, and I did not disconnect the battery. Started it up a few times during that period, but never for long, and never saw any messages. Could they have charged the battery before I tested and that's why I didn't have the problem then.

Very frustrated, please help.

 

[Mekanix]

Possibly, Your going to have to put a multimeter on the battery and see what its getting while running.
That comes one once you go below a certain voltage. Running the machine without charging the battery might get you 10 minutes before the voltage goes too far down. But if its partially charging you might have been able to get 30 minutes out of a good 13V charged battery. But one that was run down to 12.5 and then lower while riding would seem like its not getting a charge at all.

Could be a bad battery that is getting too hard to charge and the ski can't keep up with the demand.

Could be the regulator is shot and not putting out enough voltage

Could be the stator is shorted or open and not able to deliver to the regulator.

Could just be dirty wiring and connections.

 

[TSmith]

Now when I put the lanyard on the post I get no beeps. The ski starts right up and runs fine for a minute or so, then the light starts blinking and the 12v low message appears. No audible warning though. Could the low voltage be the cause of the beeper not working? Other than that it runs great. WOT Rpms up around 6900.

Please help guys, I'm about at my wits end.

 

[Mekanix]

Sounds like your beeper just died. They do that randomly.

 

[TSmith]

I'm about ready to sink this thing and write off my losses!!!!! I assume beepers easy to replace. Just one more thing I guess. Recon' I know now why the PO traded it in.

 

[Mekanix]

Its not that bad. The beepers do just die. You can get a replacement one from radio shack for like 7 $.

Besides that it seems like you need a regulator which is hardly worth abandoning hope.
At least your not replacing an engine!

 

[TSmith]

At least your not replacing an engine!

Not yet at least. There is still the issue of the oil leak that I can't seem to track down, and of course the dead speedo that no one seems to think is worth fixing. I search a long time for the right deal. Seems like I should have kept looking.

 

[Mekanix]

This is typical of a first time. We have all been through it .

Oil is likely the oil tank fitting or the lines going to the rotary valve cavity.

 

[TSmith]

Well, I bought a new battery this morning ( just hoping). Put it in and the ski seemed fine. No more light, no more 12v low message. Ran around all afternoon. Put about 3 hours on it. Ran strong. No sign of any issues. Thought I was out of the woods........

.....Then just as I was coming back to the dock on the last run of the day, light started blinking and 12v low displayed again!

Guess it's off to buy a rectifier. With that I have 2 questions:

1). Should I spend the $ on OEM rectifier, which looks like $180 plus shipping, or are any of the aftermarket rectifiers any good? I see them anywhere from 40 bucks up to 100. I don't want to buy something cheap that doesn't work any better, but I'm tired of bleeding money into this thing too.

2). Is the brand new battery I just bought now toast, or will it still be ok if the reciter is replaced? Should I charge the battery before putting the new rectifier in?

Thanks guys. I new to this and not all that mechanically inclined, but can hadle simple things and hate to spend money at the shop unless I have to.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Your new battery will be fine. Do not buy a cheap rectifier, they just don't hold up. OEM is probably the best but not required. Many have bought a heavy duty version and have been happy with it. I strongly recommend you run a spare ground wire to the mounting bolt as the ground is crucial in this case.

 

[Mekanix]

Charge the battery. Get a good regulator. There are good after market ones but not sure which ones.
So what was the voltage while you had it running ?
You should have tested that before buying a battery.
You need to test before throwing more parts and money at it !

After checking the voltage while running, you need to check the resistance between the 3 yellow wires comming out of the stator housing. Should be 0.3-0.7 ohms between any of them in any combination. And none of them should have continuity to ground.

 

[TSmith]

Thanks, really appreciate the advice. Should the new ground wire run to the negative terminal of the battery or to the block? Please pardon my ignorance. Electricity is not my thing.

 

[Mekanix]

Between block and bat negative yes.

Do you have a multimeter?
The test's are really easy and once you've done that, its going to apply to anything else you ever need to do with electricity.

 

[TSmith]

Thanks alot guys. Really appreciate the advice. Ordered a used OEM regulator today off e-bay. Will see if that fixes it. Just didn't want to spend the $$ on new OEM until I know if that will fix it. Spoke with the seller and he said this one tested fine, but could return if didn't work. I'll pick up a multimeter and a good battery charger to take to the lake with me next weekend. Hopefully that will do it.

Thanks again for all the help.
Tony

 

[1983]

A digital multimeter is one of the most useful tools when working on anything electrical from your home to car to boat to ski. They are FREE at harbor freight, yes I said free. Use the internet to your advantage. Harbor Freight offers free 25% coupons on nearly anything in the store, and a free multimeter coupon that can be used when you buy something else in store. Even comes with batteries. I have about 10 of em here at the house. Plus my high end meter from my former job.

Rob.

PS I keep a meter in my tow vehicle.

 

[1983]

Here you go, took me 1 min.:seeya:

http://www.dealsoff.com/images/function-digital-0822.jpg

Print that and take in store. You don't even have to buy anything else with that coupon.



Here, have more fun! :coolgleam: http://www.dealsoff.com/harbor-freight-coupons/

Rob.

 

[TSmith]

Awesome, thanks. I guess I can trust the HF Multimeter for what little I have to do? I buy a lot of things from them, just not usually sensitive electrical devices. Most often blunt force tools and the like....

 

[TSmith]

OK, one last question. Trying to be prepared for when I get back up to the lake next weekend with new rectifier and multimeter. I've been doing lots of research in other threads and it sounds like there are two in line fuses that could also be the culprit if it's not the rectifier, one 20 amp in the electrical box and one 15 amp? up near the MPEM. I've looked in the parts catalog but can't identify these. I'm away from the ski now and will be an hour away from parts store when I go back.

Anyone know what kind I should buy to be prepared? Also, what gauge wire should I use for the additional ground suggested.

Thanks again for all the help guys. I get more dangerous with every little bit of info. You guys are great.

 

[Mklaus]

i had the same iisue with mine. check your fuses the black compartment in the back of the sea doo where the one fuse is may have spare fuses in a little bag, mine does. they are the larger 2 blade style fuses. the other is in front of the engne where all the mpem harneses plug in. right beside the rectifier. also check all your grounds on the battery and engine mine were bad and i think thats what took out my rectifier. like 1983 said the multimeter is key. i never owened one till i got my ski now its a life saver

 

[TSmith]

Well, I put the new rectifier in today. Before installing the battery was measuring 12.3-12.4 v with engine off. With new rectifier installed measured 13.2-13.4v immediately at idle and after a 10 minute run the battery was fully charged, as it measured 12.7v with engine off. I did check all the fuses and connections and all seems good there. Went on a couple of long rides this afternoon and no issues at all. No more 12v Low! I'll keep my fingers crossed for a few days, but it looks like the rectifier did the trick.

Thanks so much to everyone for the advice, and to Mekanix for talking me off the ledge. And thanks 1983 for the HF coupon on the multi-meter. Cant beat a little "free" action, and the meter seemed to work great.

 

[1983]

Enjoy the rest of the summer on it!!

Well, I put the new rectifier in today. Before installing the battery was measuring 12.3-12.4 v with engine off. With new rectifier installed measured 13.2-13.4v immediately at idle and after a 10 minute run the battery was fully charged, as it measured 12.7v with engine off. I did check all the fuses and connections and all seems good there. Went on a couple of long rides this afternoon and no issues at all. No more 12v Low! I'll keep my fingers crossed for a few days, but it looks like the rectifier did the trick.

Thanks so much to everyone for the advice, and to Mekanix for talking me off the ledge. And thanks 1983 for the HF coupon on the multi-meter. Cant beat a little "free" action, and the meter seemed to work great.