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'06 GTX Cluster Removal

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PJ Moran

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I searched but could not find the answer.

The cluster on my '06 GTX has crapped out on me. I have ordered it's replacement, but I can't figure out how to get the old one out.

There is this tinted "sun shield" above it that probably snaps in/out, but I don't know "the trick" and don't need to break it trying to figure it out. What's the trick?

I've read that the bezel also snaps off, but I don't know where the correct pry points are. After that, I understand it's just a coupla screws.

Can anyone help me get this out?

I realize that I have to get it married to the ECU after I'm done, but I'd prefer to not pay for labor to install it.
 
Read the service manual. There is a very specific procedure to remove the gauge and if you don't follow it exactly in a very specific order and exact pry points, you will break tabs off for sure.

For the deflector, there are only 2 tabs, one on each side near the middle.

New gauges will have to be flashed first to your MY2006 model, then married.
 
Thanks for the info. I did not know I could get a free shop manual.

I read it some and it clearly shows how to remove the cluster and trim ring. But, I could not find how to remove the "eyebrow" or "shade" above. It clearly snaps in, but again, there's a proper procedure for removing it without breaking it. Any input on that?
 
For the eyebrow, use a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pry one tab inward while lifting up. It will come right out with a little wiggling.
 
New gauges will have to be flashed first to your MY2006 model, then married.

I just reread this post. It sounds like I have to do something with the new cluster BEFORE installing it. Is that correct? Or, can I install it, take the craft to the dealership for all the "marrying" and "flashing"?
 
No, install it first. Then the dealership with flash and marry it. It won't run until you do that, but it will crank.
 
There's a wrinkle to my story...

The reason I bought a new cluster was because the other day, when bringing the ski in for the day, I noticed jibberish display. There was the random dash or hash or bar or whatever displayed - nothing legible and most of the screen was blank. These "random" marks might move or flash or whatever, but it was useless. The ski works just fine, but of course I don't want to operate it without working instruments.

I took it out again yesterday, and it worked just fine. SMH. I went down and put the key on today a few times and the cluster displayed properly each time.

So, I apparently have an "intermittent" problem. Maybe it was a one time thing. Maybe it's going to keep happening at random moments.

Another tidbit... I bought this jet ski from a large dealer in Dallas. They deal in used stuff. They get it in, refurbish it and perform any maintenance required, and put it on the lot. When I first looked at this one, the gage was so dim/faded that it was hard to read anything at all. The dealer agreed to swap out the cluster for one from another unit with similar hours on it. It has worked just fine for a year and a dozen or so outings.

I am going to hold off on replacing the cluster for now. Some searching suggests that there might be a problem with the connections. So, I guess I will pull it anyway to check those. I have two questions:

1) Does the cluster have to be re-married to the ECU if I remove and reinstall it?
2) Does this behavior sound familiar to anyone and what are the possible causes?
 
1) No, it will keep the last security code.
2)Yes, you have 2 CAN BUS wires, a 12V pos, and a ground that go to the gauge. Check their entire path for bad connections.
 
I took the ski out today. The cluster worked just fine for a while, then started acting up. Eventually, it went totally blank.

The shade doesn't come off as easily as suggested. There are three tabs that have to be released, and they cannot be released until the cluster is removed. And, it's quite difficult even then. Can-Am definitely did not intend for anyone to be taking that thing off! After many tries using various tools I managed to release the three tabs. Correction: two tabs. One of the outer tabs had been broken off by someone's previous attempt to remove it.

I pulled the cluster with the shade still on. I just figured it would be easier to do so with the shade removed.

The screws are some oddball size. I have a 5mm and 6mm socket, but neither worked. Is there such thing as a 5.5mm? Locking needle nose pliers ended up as the tool for the job today.

The electrical connection to the cluster seems fine. I unplugged, then "re-plugged" it. Didn't seem to have any real impact. It was acting up so I wiggled the connector with no effect.

Tomorrow, I'll plug in the new cluster and see what happens. I know I can't run it with the new one, but if it works, perhaps that tells me the other one is going bad.
 
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