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05 180 challenger check engine light comes on

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Zwill

Zwill

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Experiencing check engine light after approximately 1 hr of ride time, twice. Engine runs, can not go over 15 mph... Starts to rumble and I don't want t to chance it. So we put it back to the dock, turn it off at the dock. Restarts fine and check engine light doesn't come back on. Anyone experience this same issue? When the check engine light comes on it has a steady long, 1 beep. Engine was rebuilt last year amongst other costly repairs. Thanks for any input!
 
Sounds like the engine is going into limp mode when the check engine comes on. This is normal behavior when the computer sense.s certain faults. It limits engine rpm. Do you have a digital dash? Any way to pull trouble codes?

If not, try a couple simple things first. Check the engine oil level and make sure it is right in the middle of the dip stick bends (make sure boat is nice and level). If too high, suck some oil out until you get it just right. Too much oil in the crank case can cause high oil pressure in these engines and cause it to display check engine light.

The other thing it might be is a bad oil tank pressure sensor, which is up near the oil fill tube. You will get a check engine light and 5000 rpm limp mode.Seadoo also had problems with the OPS which is down by the oil filter, but if it were this sensor you would probably get the ‘oil light’ not check engine and 2500rpm limp mode. What happens is these sensors lose ground and the computer thinks there is a problem. You turn engine off and restart and it is fine again until it happens again randomly, most times codes are not stored. I have this problem and will be changing my OTPS next week (may even change OPS too). Very common issue with the earlier 4tecs.

Without knowing the exact trouble code, these are most common best guesses I can give you. If there is a way to pull the codes that would certainly help narrow things down.

Curious what problems with the engine did you have last year that caused a rebuild and other costly repairs? I assume you have 215 SC engine?
 
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you need to find the fault codes, so either a dealer or a candoo system.
the boat has gone into the lower limp home mode, when you key off and on the fault is not current, therefore it will restart. without the fault code we are second guessing but could be over heating exhaust or engine.
 
My oil pressure sensor went in my Doo a few weeks back and it set off an alarm and the check oil light came on. Maybe a ground problem but it was salt water corroded. So I don't think it is an oil pressure sensor. Got the sensor fixed and all was fine except $175 lighter. A $35 part and the rest was labor and water test.

PS: No fault codes showed up on the computer.
 
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Rcguy, your info is correct with regard to the OPS. I think I gave bad advise above...

I reread my notes about this issue and it seems I misunderstood the problem a bit. Apparently Seadoo has had problems with both the OPS and OTPS which provide totally diferent functions. The OPS measures oil pressure, and the OTPS measures the crankcase pressure which should be controlled by the TOPS valve.

If the OPS is triggers the ECU is should display the oil light and 2500 rpm limp mode. If the OTPS triggers the ECU then check engine light will come on and you get 5000 rpm limp mode. There are also codes associated with this problem as well, but they tend to go away after you shut the engine down/remove lanyard. In other words most of the time they are not stored so you must read them while the problem occurs which is difficult if it is intermittent.

There is a good write-up about this issue and testing procedures on a rival site and I will try to post the link but may be shamed by moderators for doing so (sorry):
http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=69038&page=2
I have also uploaded some PDF pages from seadoo tech update that describes troubleshooting procedures

Again, I am not saying that this is your problem because it is difficult to know without the codes. It is a pretty simple and low cost solution to try though. To recap, based on your issue probably not OPS since you do not get oil light. More likely to by OTPS since you get check engine light.

Thanks for setting me straight, sorry about posting misinformation. I'll also update my post above...
 

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Analogue, needle gauge display. Two years ago I had to replace the key cause it was worn and wouldn't stay on the post(safety concern cause it would fall off if I hit a big enough wave). That was the start of all my issues.. Engine would shut off randomly. Couldn't get a joy ride in. The mx shop replaced the safety switch, electronic box, fuse box and dess. I changed the starter because it was corroded and a matter of time before that went, and installed my rebuilt supercharger and apparently I messed up the "starter double gear". Was trying to save a buck but cost me a lot more than if I had sent it to shop first...
 
Thanks for the replies.. Checked the oil, boat level and it was low. Added oil, took it out today and consistently check engine light came on. Approximately 45 minutes in... Docked, waited 15 minutes and restarted boat. Was able to get 15 minutes towards home, repeat. Docked and went swimming. After bout an hr we restarted it, made it back to dock w no light. I'll look into getting the code read or simply swapping out those sensors...
 
hang on guys!!!!!!
re-read the fault.
zwill said, he said engine light not oil light, with a long beep.
 
Not really sure, but I think it is safe to say all of them...

They came out with an updated part for the OPS (not sure when) but never updated the OTPS from what I understand.
 
opfor22 said:
Anyone know what years of 4-Tec engines are effected by the faulty oil sensors?
Click to expand...

>06 they used a different sensor and otps has a different setup than the earlier 4tecs . so be careful when ordering sensors on the earlier 4tecs.

i still dont agree with the no fault showing up, it wont show in the console. but i am pretty sure it should show as an occurred fault, via candoo. (any one with a candoo license can check via the candoo forum, just post the question and they usually reply same day)
my candoo certainly showed a ops fault which had "occurred" . swapped the sensor all good.
a seadoo dealer here said nothing wrong and no faults, so i dont know if they BS to me or the seadoo system didnt read it!?
why spend $$$ when your not sure what the fault is?
 
Pete, I can't answer that question. They BS us in the USA as much or maybe more than your country. Wish I had a better answer.
 
Update, took awhile sitting in my terrible local, only certified seadoo repair shop around but I had both sensors, the ops and otps sensors changed. Now the oil light is on, vs before the engine light... Checked the oil level and it was high so I pumped some out, good oil level now. The oil light w beep comes on still. I do have a significant oil leak coming from the center of my oil filter. Bout to return the problematic boat back to shop for the rest of summer tomorrow....the problem would happen when throttling down. I can pull the key, restart and idle w no issues..any ideas?
 
did they say what faults had occurred before?
besides the oil leak, you still need to know what fault it is, so it can be addressed.
taking the key off just clears the the fault until it re-occurs.
 
The code is p1202. Had the oil leak fixed, new seals n new filter. Test run bad. Oil light still illuminates during throttle down after about 10-15 minutes...anyone familiar with a blow by valve in the oil system? Or any other ideas?
 
Zwill said:
The code is p1202. Had the oil leak fixed, new seals n new filter. Test run bad. Oil light still illuminates during throttle down after about 10-15 minutes...anyone familiar with a blow by valve in the oil system? Or any other ideas?
Click to expand...

when you put the layard on you will a sound of the blow by valve opening up, like a screw valve then a click. if this is not not happen then the valve isn't opening. if you can hear the valve then replace the sensor. then test ride.
search the forum for blow by valve and or P1202, there is a lot threads on this problem.
at the start you said engine light now oil light?
 
With the key on post I can hear the solenoid click and feel it. Originally It was a check engine light, now it's a oil light. Both sensors were replaced, oPS and oil tank pressure switch and issue still shows...
 
Update-my issue was bigger than all suggestions. problem all along stemmed from last years maintenance. Repair shop didn't fish all the flywheel gear teeth. Since there were shards of metal flowing through my motor it destroyed my oil pumps. Had the motor rebuilt. Going to take out this weekend. Missed the entire summer. Salvaged what they could.
 
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