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04 Sporster - DESS is completely dead

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I have a 2004 Sporster, single engine, 4 stroke. I changed the spark plugs, fired it up, it ran a little rough when i gave it throttle which I was going to dig into. Shut it down. Went back about 15 minutes later to try it again and start thinking about rough running issue, i plugged the lanyard in and no beep, not power to gauges, nothing. Tried the start button and of course nothing, no clicking or anything. Checked to be sure my battery was on and then tried blower and it ran fine. Charged the battery just to be safe even though I had just started it with this battery, no difference. The fuses in the little fuse box in the dash were ok and the fuses in the box against the port side engine bay firewall were ok. Is there a fuse somewhere else that would affect the DESS key?

Oh I tried my key on my RXP and it beeped the wrong code beep and tried my RXP key on the Sportster and of course it was dead silent.

Should there be 12 volts on either side of the DESS receptical that I should check for? What causes no beep at all when the battery is good and the battery switch is good?

Appreciate anyone's thoughts.

John
 
Here is info on how to test the DESS and components that work with it..

I would start by cleaning the Post on the safety lanyard. It is beeping and saying it isn't connecting to the Mpem, (Multi Purpose Electronic Module) It needs to beep 2 times to let you know it is ready to start. Clean the post and cap with soapy water. Don't use any grease of lubricant on it as it needs a clean connection to make contact. Connect the lanyard to see if it is making a connection. 2 beeps and it's ready to fire up.

Engine start/stop switch verification;
Disconnect the Yellow/Red wire of the start/stop switch. Using an ohmmeter, connect test probes to the Yellow/Red wire and to ground. Measure resistance, it must be an open circuit (switch is normally open). Depress and hold switch, the ohmmeter should read close to “0” ohm.

Safety Lanyard Switch Verification;
If 2 short beeps are not heard when installing the safety lanyard, disconnect the switch wires.
Safety lanyard removed;
connect the test probes to switch Black and Black/Yellow wires. It’s an open circuit, there should be no continuity.
Connect one test probe to the White/Gray wire and the other test probe to the switch terminal. Measure resistance, it should be “0” ohm. Connect one test probe to the Black wire and the other test probe to the switch ring. Measure resistance, it must be close to “0” ohm.
Safety lanyard on switch; connect the probes to switch Black and Black /Yellow wires. Measure resistance, it must be “0” ohm.
Timer Verification;
The timer is integrated into the MPEM. Always confirm that the fuses are in good condition. To confirm operation of timer, remove the safety lanyard from switch. After 5 seconds delay, depress start/stop button once. The timer should stay on for 33 seconds (for example, the gauge(s) will be activated) and than turn off.
Here is all the info on the DESS codes. It is possiable that you are getting a mixed code.
DESS Codes/ Beeps
2 Short beeps …the engine is ready to start
1 Long beep …no communication to MPEM
4 Short beeps… (on Jet Boats) Shifter is in gear
8 Short beeps…defective MPEM
1 Continual beep…engine over heating


Advanced Self- Diagnostic Mode


By pushing the start/stop button 5 times, you’re putting the DESS in advanced diagnostics. When you have successfully done this, you'll hear 1 short, 1 long beep then, put on the lanyard cap. The engines should start if everything is ok.

2 Short beeps means MPEM can’t read the lanyard cap or it has bad magnet. It could be a bad wire connection at the Lanyard switch.
2 Long beeps means wrong lanyard or bad connection of DESS connection
3 beeps signal the wiring harness of the DESS switch are grounded, or a short circuit somewhere.

You may have a bad connection in your wiring harness, from corrosion. Go through your electrical systems connectors and check for corrosion. Clean them with some contact cleaner, then die-electric grease.

To listen to the codes again start from the beginning.
 
It will crank, the problem is that the DESS is completely without power. The dash doesn't even light up or any of the gauges power up, So I don't even get the permissive to try to crank over.
 
Ok Coastiejoe, in my case it was working 15 minutes earlier with no problem except the engine ran rough. Now with a fully charged battery there is no sound, no beeps, nothing when I put the lanyard on. The same lanyard will make my RXP beep so I know it is at least making contact. The RXP lanyard does nothing on my sporster. If I push the start button without the lanyard no dash gauge lights come on and if I push it 5 times nothing happens, no codes.

I have found the two little fuse boxes that have automotive type fuses and they all are good but do not seem to be directly related to the DESS. Where is the fuse for the EMS or the MPEM? If it is completely dead it makes me think the EMS isn't getting any power.
 
Ok Coastiejoe, in my case it was working 15 minutes earlier with no problem except the engine ran rough. Now with a fully charged battery there is no sound, no beeps, nothing when I put the lanyard on. The same lanyard will make my RXP beep so I know it is at least making contact. The RXP lanyard does nothing on my sporster. If I push the start button without the lanyard no dash gauge lights come on and if I push it 5 times nothing happens, no codes.

I have found the two little fuse boxes that have automotive type fuses and they all are good but do not seem to be directly related to the DESS. Where is the fuse for the EMS or the MPEM? If it is completely dead it makes me think the EMS isn't getting any power.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...C-mpem-trouble&p=469118&viewfull=1#post469118
 
Ok, I went through the two fuse boxes which only had one fuse that could have affected DESS but also the 5 inline fuses by the battery. Didn't find any bad but after pulling each one out and putting back in, low and behold it started so apparently one of the inline fuses had enough oxidation to prevent a good connection. I'll pull them all again and clean with dremel brush and dielectric grease for a permanent fix. So it runs now and it's time to take it to the lake and see if all is well.
 
Ok, I went through the two fuse boxes which only had one fuse that could have affected DESS but also the 5 inline fuses by the battery. Didn't find any bad but after pulling each one out and putting back in, low and behold it started so apparently one of the inline fuses had enough oxidation to prevent a good connection. I'll pull them all again and clean with dremel brush and dielectric grease for a permanent fix. So it runs now and it's time to take it to the lake and see if all is well.

That's good news! What you did to the fuses should be a yearly standard maintenance procedure, especially if you use your Doo in salt water. Thanks for reminding me to perform the same on my Doo.
 
Ok, I went through the two fuse boxes which only had one fuse that could have affected DESS but also the 5 inline fuses by the battery. Didn't find any bad but after pulling each one out and putting back in, low and behold it started so apparently one of the inline fuses had enough oxidation to prevent a good connection. I'll pull them all again and clean with dremel brush and dielectric grease for a permanent fix. So it runs now and it's time to take it to the lake and see if all is well.


good work

i think they might recommend silicone electrical spray around connectors and fuses
 
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