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'04 Speedster 4-tec 155 rotax - jet pump rebuild - cavitation

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twinpartners

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Dealer wants $800 for rebuild and $1500 if the housing is cracked when they remove it.
They state it's "typical" for the older models. I think they are full of it.

I see jet pump master rebuild kits on ebay. Some with wear rings and some with impeller shaft.
I am very mechanically inclined (rebuild engines etc.) and think I can handle this with ease.
Is there anything else other than impeller tool and bearing pusher that I need?
I've seen the shop manual online that explains the whole process. Anything special to watch for?
All the parts including a new impeller won't run me anywhere near $800 - $1500.

Does anyone know the correct MM (140 or 155) that I am supposed to get?
Seadoo Warehouse and the other more infamous Seadoo OEM parts website only list them individually and not as a master kit. Does anyone know who else offers a master rebuild kit?

Thx David
 
Before ordering anything... take your pump off, and inspect it. If you didn't loose a seal... I'm sure the pump is fine, and doesn't need to be "Rebuilt" I have had early 90's skis in my shop... and the pump has never had bearings/seals/shafts replaced. If the seal went bad... and salt water got into the pump... then yes... it will need some parts. But check first.


Normally... all the pump needs is a wear ring.


If you have bad cavitation... I would think about changing the carbon seal. That's the source for most major cavitation issues.


Lastly... the only reason a pump housing would be cracked... is if there was physical contact with something hard. (like hitting a rock) The plastic pumps don't take the abuse of some of the older ones... but it's not like they are fragile.



It's not a hard service... and you are looking at $50 for a ring, and $20 for the impeller tool. And then... an hour or so of your time. Don't pay the dealer prices!!
 
Excellent. Thanks for pointing me to the carbon ring. Will check that out first before I pull the pump off.

BTW, what is the correct way to troubleshoot the carbon ring? I've seen posts where someone put water in until is was over the carbon ring. The he waiting to see if water was coming out. Is this right or is there a better way?
 
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Never done this myself but have heard of a few tricks to test the carbon ring seal. You can put a few plastic zip ties around the rubber bellows boot to make it push tighter on the carbon ring creating a better seal, then you can glob some real thick grease around the seal between the carbon ring and stainless steel ring to create a temporary seal (almost like calk) that will block air from being sucked in between the matting surfaces.

Then take it out and see if the cavitation goes away for a few pulls, if it does or if the cavitation is diminished you know you found a piece to the puzzle.
 
I know its been a long time since this post. But, I just pulled off the jet pump to rebuild and decided to also put in a new SOLAS IMPELLER CONCORD S-D SR-CD 11/19. Can't wait to get it back in the water!

BTW, the wear ring was horrible. It had about a 1/4" gap between the impeller and the wear ring. I got a new stainless wear ring because it is used primarily in salt water. The distance between the impeller and wear ring is only about 3 pieces of paper thick. That's a WORLD of a difference. The carbon seal ring was just fine. I tested it by filling the hull with water until it was just above the carbon ring seal rubber seal. No bubbles or nothing. The two ends of the rubber were tight, so I'm not going to touch it. The problem is absolutely the wear ring.

Now the only problem I have is that the Reverse Gate Support bracket was broken (hair-line crack) and they are on back order until July 2014!!
 
Do you have the plastic pump housing or is it aluminum? The plastic ones are prone to cavitation issues in the earlier 4tec models and only fix is to replace them with the aluminum one from the later models.
 
Fixed! The new SOLAS impeller and the stainless wear ring are awesome. Getting to plane a lot faster and the top speed on calm water was 52. Out on the chop in salt water was anywhere between 45 - 48. Was the best thing I ever did to the boat so far. Taking everything apart was easy. Wear ring came right out after putting in the freezer. Got a WORLD of info here on this forum!
 
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