01 Utopia 185 200hp help with spark plug change

[JeromeM]

01 Utopia 185 200hp help with spark plug change **UPDATE 07/19/09**

Update 07/19/2009

Ok, I went up to the cottage this weekend and started on the boat Saturday morning. I checked compression on all 6 Cylinders, they were all between 120-125psi. I immediately noticed something wrong when I saw the black engine paint on the plugs...meaning they were original from when the engine was built, and they looked BAD.

I called the shop where I had the boat 2 weeks ago and told him that I checked myself and it had equal compression on all 6 cylinders, he suggested it was because it now had oil in that cyl and it was sealing everything up...LOL I then asked him about the plugs and all he said was "naw, we didn't think of changing them" Lesson learned, I am never going to that place again.

Ok, so in the small town where the cottage is I was able to get 6 new plugs, they were NOT cheap. I put in 6 new plugs with some Dielectric grease, ensured everything was put back properly. Then when I was about to put the engine cover back on I noticed the crank sensor was unplugged...it was REALLY hard to get that plug to clip but I did.

I started the boat, idled for a while, then went 10mph for about 10 minutes, seemed to run great so I opened here up, no hesitation at all, nice engine sound, it was windy but was able to get to 45mph on the gauge. I was happy but skeptical that this was the only thing it needed.

Later in the day I went out again in the boat and performed great again.

This morning the wife and I went for a nice 1 hour ride around the lake, cruising at 30mph the engine purred like a kitty. Opened her up, it was calmer today on the water and it actually went over 50mph with no hesitation at all.:cheers:

So, for the price of 6 plugs, it looks like it's fixed.....I'll keep my fingers crossed. Either way, the engine isn't toast like the shop said it was. If I wasn't mechanically inclined I would of had them replace the engine....

I'm so happy!!!

**End Update**



Hi All,

I'm having engine trouble and when at the shop they told me I had low compression on Cyl 5. I want to ensure to try everything I can before I "bite the bullet" and get the engine out. Here are those details on what's happening: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=19478

So the engine would run good, then it would rev different for a few seconds then run good then rev different and now it doesn't run good anymore. Weird that compression on a cylinder would have this affect, not sure why it would be "on-off-on-off" like that.

anyways, I want to change the plugs is there anything I should know that makes it different then a car?

I read something about triming the plug wires, is there a how-to or something?

Would anything else cause the engine to run that way?

Thanks,
Jay

 

[rookie101]

Jay start by doing the compression test your self and see what you get. Your description in the other post sounds more like a fuel problem, but it's hard to tell.

If you do need an engine you can either rebuild it yourself, or buy a reman for around 3-3400. I know Crowley Marine carries them, as well as a number of other Mercury part suppliers. Just Google it and see what comes up. Being as you only paid 500 for the boat I wouldn't feel to bad about putting a rebuilt power head in it. Just don't take it to a dealer. All they ever want to do is put in a brand new turn key unit for around 13,000.

Aaron:cheers:

 

[JeromeM]

Ok, so I just take the fuel pump fuse out, (Is there a spark/ignition fuse?) reach behind one cyl at a time put in the compression tester (One for a car will work?) crank it over a few times and restart on all 6?

Is there somewhere I can read up on this engine, I want to understand how it works.

Also, is there a manual as part of being a "Premium member" of this website that will go through removing the engine?

 

[rookie101]

Ok, so I just take the fuel pump fuse out, (Is there a spark/ignition fuse?) reach behind one cyl at a time put in the compression tester (One for a car will work?) crank it over a few times and restart on all 6?

Is there somewhere I can read up on this engine, I want to understand how it works.

Also, is there a manual as part of being a "Premium member" of this website that will go through removing the engine?

Yes pull the fuel pump fuse, and then just leave the safety lanyard off and it will kill the ignition side of things for you. There is a manual in the premium section, but it is for the older 240fi and 210 carb. The electronics are different, but the procedure for removing the engine is the same.

An automotive compression gauge will work fine. Post back after you do the test and let us know what the results were.

Aaron:cheers:

 

[JeromeM]

Good call on the lanyard safety switch, man this boat stuff, lots to learn. lol

I wish the boat wasn't 2.5 hours away at the cottage or I would do it now, I kinda want to go up after work one night.

As for the manual I'm not sure if I should pay the premium membership here or buy the actual manual on CD on ebay.

 

[Craigmri]

Aaron, I still wish you were my neighbor :seeya:

Craig

 

[rookie101]

Aaron, I still wish you were my neighbor :seeya:

Craig

You'd never talk to me if I lived next door, because if I was that close your old U-boat would be in my garage. I would have knocked that wall down to make it fit...................:rofl:

Aaron:cheers:

 

[JeromeM]

I really appreciate the help while I'm learning all this stuff.

Not easy trying to fix the boat on a budget while planning a wedding, lol

 

[JeromeM]

Double Post

 

[JeromeM]

Aaron,

I just read this: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=19458

Kinda interesting, wonder if something fuel related could be an issue with mine.

I will need to get that manual to see about how to check fuel pressures. The shop that looked at my boat last week took the fuel pumps apart just to make sure there was no debris but not sure what else they would have looked at so I will do this while I do the compression test and put in new plugs. Would the download manual on here work for this as well even if this is different then the carb/EFI model?

 

[JeromeM]

**EDIT** OK, so I found this manual online: http://articles.richardhartman.net/jetboat/240EFI_MY2000/4a.pdf and if you check page 20 it's showing how to remove the Powerhead.

It's for the 210/240 so I am sure it will be similar on the 200. In any case when I get to this point I will have the actual 200 manual but this helps.

So that doesn't look that bad at all, I will un bolt and leave in place everything that I can from the Powerhead and then remove it. I think getting it rebuilt will be cheaper then buying a reman but not sure if anyone in Canada does this, shipping to and from the US will be rediculously expensive.

 

[rdradu]

Hey JeromeM,
Sorry to hear about your problems and I hope that you get it figured out in time to celebrate your marriage on the water.
I wish that I had some guidance for you on this but I too am new to the boating world and am full on "learn mode".
Good luck!

 

[rookie101]

Jerome the removal and install is the same for all the V6 sport jets so you can go off that manual if it comes to it. I would still start with the plugs and compression test first to see what they have to say.

As far as that other post and the fuel circuit, they are basically the same with the exception the 200 Optimax runs all electric pumps and no mechanical pulse pump. The flow of fuel is the same, with the low side pressures being 4-8psi on the lift pump and 7-9 psi on the feed pump supplying the fuel/water separator.

Aaron:cheers:

 

[JeromeM]

I posted an update on the first post but incase someone skips that here it is:

Ok, I went up to the cottage this weekend and started on the boat Saturday morning. I checked compression on all 6 Cylinders, they were all between 120-125psi. I immediately noticed something wrong when I saw the black engine paint on the plugs...meaning they were original from when the engine was built, and they looked BAD.

I called the shop where I had the boat 2 weeks ago and told him that I checked myself and it had equal compression on all 6 cylinders, he suggested it was because it now had oil in that cyl and it was sealing everything up...LOL I then asked him about the plugs and all he said was "naw, we didn't think of changing them" Lesson learned, I am never going to that place again.

Ok, so in the small town where the cottage is I was able to get 6 new plugs, they were NOT cheap. I put in 6 new plugs with some Dielectric grease, ensured everything was put back properly. Then when I was about to put the engine cover back on I noticed the crank sensor was unplugged...it was REALLY hard to get that plug to clip but I did.

I started the boat, idled for a while, then went 10mph for about 10 minutes, seemed to run great so I opened here up, no hesitation at all, nice engine sound, it was windy but was able to get to 45mph on the gauge. I was happy but skeptical that this was the only thing it needed.

Later in the day I went out again in the boat and performed great again.

This morning the wife and I went for a nice 1 hour ride around the lake, cruising at 30mph the engine purred like a kitty. Opened her up, it was calmer today on the water and it actually went over 50mph with no hesitation at all.:cheers:

So, for the price of 6 plugs, it looks like it's fixed.....I'll keep my fingers crossed. Either way, the engine isn't toast like the shop said it was. If I wasn't mechanically inclined I would of had them replace the engine....

I'm so happy!!!