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I often tell people If you are going to own a 20+ yo high performance 2 stroke anything you will need some mechanical skills and develop more while adding tools to the box. Wether that is a jet boat, jet ski, snowmobile or other it will require virtually constant upkeep. It’s the nature of...

I roadraced an RZ350 set up for the track in my younger times. That’s how I eventually got into ski-doos. 2 strokes are great fun. The constant upside down of working on these boats is the worst part. When they work they are an absolute blast! But I’d rather be riding my snowmobile.

I often tell people If you are going to own a 20+ yo high performance 2 stroke anything you will need some mechanical skills and develops more. Wether that is a jet boat, jet ski, snowmobile or other it will require virtually constant upkeep. The nature of these performance engines running...

If you have the 787’s you need to read the carb write up that is sticky at top of this forum. https://www.seadooforum.com/threads/the-seadoo-carb-rebuild-thread.89199/ All the answers you could want and some you don’t know you need yet. Working on the carbs in the boat is a nightmare of...

Thanks. Couldn’t find any reference to just 2 holes in these carbs.

Hi all and hopefully @mikidymac notices this too. I have been all thru your AWESOME carb write up as I work on the 787 carbs for my 1997 challenger 1800. Here’s my issue. All the descriptions talk about a slightly larger hole off to the right (blue line) and then ‘3 little holes’ that you...

I was wondering the same thing. Feels like the downslide of this wonderful site / resource is not having final solutions posted. @DesignAlot did you make it work?

Now that I know left tach is broken and there is a piece rattling around inside. Now that it is out of the dash I can hear it. $150-$250 on eBay and I decided NOTHING TO LOSE. Grab the cutoff wheel and cut it open. Inside I found the loose piece was a low voltage dropout regulator. There was...

Ok so I messed up. There are 4 wires coming out of the tachometer on this boat. The 3 connector I was swapping is the 12v hot and neutral plus the dash light. There is also a single connector that has the grey signal wire. I wasn’t swapping this in my earlier tests. When I did the left motor...

Oops. I posted twice. Please delete this thread

Here is a strange one, or at least is to me. 1997 Challenger 1800 with twin 787’s. Recently the left tachometer just stopped working. No needle movement at all. The right works fine. I was trying to determine if it’s the signal from the MPEM or the tach itself. In the console behind the dash...

Here is a strange one, or at least is to me. 1997 Challenger 1800 with twin 787’s. Recently the left tachometer just stopped working. No needle movement at all. The right works fine. I was trying to determine if it’s the signal from the MPEM or the tach itself. In the console behind the dash...

I’m not sure what you are asking. See what @Ed Clark said above. Awesome explanation. The insulated pliers across the big terminals on the solenoid is the same test as Jumper cable from the battery to the starter lug. Just a way to prove starter has enough umph to spin the motor. Do this...

I forgot to come back with the files. Here you go.

2nd to all that Miki said. Worth repeating though is DO NOT JUMP START a Seadoo with MPEM. The MPEM (aka brain) is quite likely to get fried with no way to fix. Replace only with another old used one or the MSD 4255. I always disconnect the battery from ski/boat when charging battery. A 2amp...

The Dess key to post is not removable if running an MPEM. What I did for my Challenger 1800 was to 3D print a holder that with a couple zip ties lock the key on the dess post. I added a separate tether to shut off the boat. It’s not a great picture but it’s what I found.

Sounds to me to be electrical safety circuit related. There is a switch on the forward - neutral - reverse that prevents the ski from starting when not in nuetral. This switch also Rev limits it to 3000rpm. Will it start in forward? If so Switch or wiring is bad.

I would add to this convo about the MPEM. The real key to knowing the brain is good is does it have spark. Pull the plugs to remove compression and make the starter work easier. Check for spark while cranking. If it has spark the rest is fixable. (IMO)

As etemplet suggestedm, find the part# online and check ebay with it. I like seadoopartshouse.com for easily searched fiche of these parts. I believe the PTO end crankshaft o-ring you asked about is #420430782. When I bought the full engine gasket kit, I had intended to measure all of these...

Start by pulling spark plugs out and putting wires on grounding posts. Then try cranking it over. Does it spin up fine? Does liquid come squirting out of either or both plug holes? Have you checked the starter solenoid even if new? With insulated tool bridge across the two large posts and see...