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Glad you zeroed in on the problem. I thought you had solved that in you previous post "Oil overload". I do not have any direct experience with leaking crank seals. I will leave it to other members who have used the shut off valve or replaced the seals to chime in and advise you.

I saw the video. While it does sound like a bad starter I'm not sure what the high pitched whine is. May be the starter pinion gear backing off and grinding on the engine flywheel. Before removing the starter you could check that the engine rotates freely by hand. Remove the plugs and the...

If still no spark check coil according to the shop manual. I have read where you can check the CDI output of the MPEM by connecting a 12V test light to the MPEM input to the coil (I think it is a white wire) and the other end of the test light to ground. It should blink when cranking. There are...

I don't use reddit, maybe you could provide a link to the video. If you short across the top of the solenoid and you still get the same result with the starter then it is the starter or cables and a new solenoid won't fix that.

One of the most common problems for a no spark condition on a 96-97 GTX is that there are 2 ground wires connected to battery negative, a large black cable and a small black wire. The small black wire goes to the rear e box to provide ground to the coil (as you mentioned above) and the start...

It is hard to tell from your picture what wire you are measuring. When a multimesir is measuring continuity and shows OL (open line) that means it is infinite resistance which is an open line. The meter would probably admit a beep or an audible tone if there was continuity between the 2 lines...

That is the holder relay on 96 models with separate external CDI modules (XP, GTX). It can cause communication problems between the MPEM and the CDI modules (4 beeps) and a lack of spark but not problems cranking. In 97's and after I believe the CDI was integrated into the MPEM and there was no...

From your picture above there has been excessive moisture in the engine compartment. You can take a look at the 2 power connections on the starter (the red cable from the solenoid and the lower bolt on the front of the starter that has a black battery cable on it). If those connections are as...

There are products available for rust removal. I have not used them myself. You could also use a soft wire drush to open and clean the connections. Hopefully the moisture did not internally damage the electrical components.

It sounds like there is a problem with the starter or the start solenoid. Check the starter by shorting across the solenoid. If it cranks reliably then test the start solenoid has zero resistance across the top contacts when energized. If not replace the solenoid. Otherwise load test the battery.

That's good that it cranks. Grim and I described other thing to check. You should download and look over the manual as Grim suggested. All the tests for DESS, start solenoid, start button, etc are described in the manual. That schematic is also there. I would first try to get it cranking and...

Before you do a lot of cranking of the engine, get some oil in it and make sure the oil lines to the cylinders are primed.

The buzzer should be fixed to tell you the ski is recognizing the key and alarm overheating conditions. The battery should be charged and load tested to make sure it is capable of starting the ski. Since you get a click when it does not turn over I would first use an insulated handle tool...

That's way too high. Did you measure that when the guages were lit and it was ready to start or when it was just sitting after being off for a few minutes?

I thought more about your problem after Brian's post. I do not know what the average current draw of my ski is when it is off. It can be measured by putting your ampmeter in series with one of the two main battery leads. But let's say yours is about 12mA you measured for the solenoid control...

There are some simple tests to try to find out what may be wrong. In the shop manual for your ski there is probably a voltage test for the regulator/rectifier. Put a voltmeter on the battery, start and rev engine to 5500 RPM. My manual for a 96 says if the voltage is above 15V dc replace the...

When you unplug the solenoid the current you measured (12mA) will not flow but do you still see 9mV on the YE-RE wire that goes to the solenoid? If you do then use a switch. If no voltage on YE-RE wire without solenoid connected then replace solenoid.

I am not aware of schematics for the internals of the MPEM box, only the schematic in the shop manual that shows connections around it. There could be a couple of reasons for the small voltage you are measuring on the YE-RE wire. It could be due to some dirt/corrosion on the pin connections...

I have never had to measure mine but look at this thread which describes some of the signals: https://www.seadooforum.com/threads/speed-sensor-repair.115787/

There is a 3 wire paddlewheel transducer on the back of the ride plate that must feed into the multifunction gauge and the speedometer gauge. First thing to do is check the connectors for that paddlewheel are connected and clean. There is probably a connector in the rear near the ride plate and...