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Have you checked your voltages and resistance to ground at the coil to ensure you don’t have a voltage drop somewhere in the primary system? You have to backprobe the wires as the connector has to stay plugged in for it to work.

Do you have spark in the front plug? I didn’t see the results in your post. It makes sense that it doesn’t run until you remove the front plug. There is too much drag from the dead cylinder trying to make compression to allow it to fire. Now you just have to figure out why it isn’t firing.

The third cable goes to your oil pump to increase flow with throttle. Sounds like you still have fuel delivery issues. Did you rebuild with genuine mikuni brand carb kits? Also, do a compression check and report the numbers.

Your high compression could also be due to carbon buildup in the cylinder. It takes up room effectively raising your compression ratio. Looks like a nice ski.

Most drills have a two speed gearbox where low speed would be close to 1,500 rpm. If not just run it at 1/3 speed. A common single speed drill runs at 4,000 rpm wide open.

What I am seeing is a hot spot on the piston and cylinder wall. Something is heating up that area enough to gall the aluminum and melt it into your cylinder wall. I don’t think it’s a water flow cooling issue as the other cylinder, and about 3/4 of this cylinder is fine. There would probably be...

These are known to have faulty crank seals that flood the crankcase with oil when sitting for long periods of time. Could definitely cause hydro locking and no spark due to fouled plugs. Hence the fuel smell. Crank without the plugs in at full throttle (make sure to ground the plug wires)...

Glad to hear it. Enjoy the water this season.

I haven’t seen anything on the form recently regarding oils for the two stroke skis. Is quicksilver PWC full synthetic in the silver bottle with a teal label still a recommended equivalent to the BRP oil? It is expensive at around $80 a gallon locally. Just trying to see if I can save a little bit.

I’d get a cheap inline spark tester. Could pop the seat off when it dies and check. An easy way to eliminate quite a few components as faulty. You can also try running with the gas tank cap off to see if the vent is clogged.

The rotary valve cover most likely uses an o-ring. I wouldn’t reuse it myself but I suppose you could if it looks good. The valve itself looks like 3/4 of a pizza cutter wheel and is on a fairly long splined shaft, so you shouldn’t have any problems leaving it be. It will need to be retimed if...

Have you tried pouring a very small amount of pre mix down the carb throats and immediately trying to start? That will rule out a fuel delivery issue. Might want to check compression if that doesn’t work, it is possible running it lean before the rebuild damaged the pistons.

That is normal. You get higher pressure from the hose. You are also pushing water backwards through the system when on the hose. Water will reach the pee tube before the restrictions in the cylinder head. In the water, it is restricted before reaching the pee tube. As long as it picks up when...

When you say no power, what is that? No crank? No beeps when you put the key on? What ski are you working on? We need more information to trace your problem.

Have you tested spark? Ohmd coil?

Doesn’t look like you have plug grounding posts. No big deal, just plug the spark plugs back in and lay them on a metal surface. Should be fine to prevent damage to the coils, just keep them away from a fuel source.

I think your spark looks fine. When it starts the mag will start producing stronger spark. Cranking is less than half the speed of idle, so mag can’t provide as much juice.

Your oil problem is a common issue. When these skis sit for a while the rotary valve seals leak and fill the crankcase with oil. When you crank it all that oil is forced out the exhaust which is what you are seeing. Remove your plugs, ground the wires, and crank with the throttles wide open for...

You can also try running without the seat on. Exhaust leaks can scavenge all the oxygen out of the hull and kill the engine. Have you considered spark? I’d admit your video sounds like a fuel delivery issue but I had a bad coil that wouldn’t allow it to rev beyond half throttle. Idle and low...

I use an ultrasonic cleaner and simple green (or dish soap and warm water) to knock the dirt off the outside of the carb. I’m not convinced that it is a good replacement for carb cleaner and compressed air however. You can use any available aerosol can marketed as carb cleaner Inside the carb...