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Here's the cross reference chart from loctite part numbers to permatex. You can pick up permatex at any of the auto parts stores. Just Google it before you go, not every store carries everything Cross Reference – Permatex

are you saying i'd need to replace the center seals? in that case I'd just buy a SBT crank at that point. I will measure the bore and then get back with you about that engine. But you think I should Appreciate the feedback. This is what my pistons look like. The grooves are noticable with my...

So the story behind this engine(1995 spx 657x) is that was I was doing electrical diagnostics and opened the stator cover to make sure everything is in tact. Found tons of oil. Tore down engine to replace crank seals, found the cage on the front bearing is gone and there's remnants of the cage...

Yeah I know, I was going to replace both seals. That was an AutoZone (OEMTOOLS) puller. I broke it with an impact. I ran it down pretty hard with a powerful impact. But I think OEMTOOLS cheaped out with the bolts. I got a new puller, and if these break I'll go to the hardware store and get some...

Thanks for the info. Time to run back to the auto parts store to warrenty out this bad boy and try again on my flywheel. Peep the homemade tap for my mower crank next to the broken bolts lol

Is there a way to do it without heat? I don't want to ruin my inner seals.

Alright. Also do you have an advice on how to remove the PTO flywheel? Should I bolt my engine down to the workbench?

No clue as to how it got rusted honestly. It ran decently when I took it out last time(I took it apart soon after I took it out). I pressure tested the inner crank seals to 3psi and it held pressure overnight. But my magneto housing was full of oil when I pulled it off. And thanks for the...

Hello, I got a 1995 spx I'm replacing the crank seals on. The rotary valve is between .010 and .012 thick. It won't fit the .012 feeler gauge in. I'm wondering why this barely is in spec. Because it seems like the gap would thicken if it was out of spec. I'm thinking of replacing the rotary...

Thanks. I really don't have the money to do a top end(or rather unnecessary repairs to the top end. ) I'm a college student and tuition is expensive. The top end measures 150psi. I'll measure the piston gaps, but I'm pretty sure it checks out, and top end repairs are easy. I may replace the...

I know there's not high pressure, but any kind of flow would put a little pressure. I just want something to let me know it's flowing. If it fails I'd like to know before it causes any issues. Also I know they run cold, but I need a paint that can tolerate water(possibly salt water).

Alright so I'm finishing up my restoration. I'm going to pressure test my rotary valve case, but I'm pretty sure it's bad, so I'd need to remove the crank. I was wondering if anyone knows where to get good circlips from, and how to remove the piston pin without the piston pin tool. I am reusing...

Alright so I know I've asked about crank seals before, but I forgot to mention that it was sitting for 8 years. And I don't believe I've mentioned my inner seals. So here it goes: I acquired a 1995 spx with a 657x engine that had been sitting for over 8 years(I just found that out last weekend...

Once I get my ski working, we should go ride.

I'm messaging competitive crankshafts, and the owner said that I can get just the seals replaced from him. It's about the same price as an SBT whole crankshaft rebuild, but I don't trust SBT.

I'll consider the valve. But I don't mind spending time having to take it apart twice if I absolutely need to if sealing the outer surface fails. I have time to fix my thing, but I don't really have the funds to go around purchasing these 250+ dollar parts all the time. Plus, I've heard that sbt...

I'll do that if I can't fix it by sealing the outer surface

Thanks. I posted an "update" after doing some more research going off this information and the other replies and reading some other forums. Since I have the engine out and I'm not trying to blow my bank account (yes, I'm aware skis are money pits, but I don't want it to be such a big money pit...

What I did with mine was I sucked fuel through the lines to prime them, as it take a while to prime. Use a brake bleeder so you don't have to risk fuel in your mouth. And then repeat the part where you pour fuel into the carb to finish the priming. It might fix your issue.

also if I just put my engine back in, should I clean the oil off of my stator coil? Is the oil likely frying my rectifier (I just replaced a faulty recitfier, and haven't ran it with the new rectifier). To clean my stator coil I'd need to get tools to remove the magneto. I don't have a holder.