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thanks Doug. I meant the o-ring on the round cover on end of counterbalance. I found the part numbers and like you....wished I had just measured them and not over pay for just one.

wonderful. thanks for the link.

I am choosing #2 and in the middle of it. Something I did not expect was the o-ring on crank had a spot that was super thin....air leak. This is all new to me, so tearing this apart, buying special tools wasn't something I planned on, but feel it won't be my last engine to rebuild. Great...

might need to start my own thread, but this one kind of applies to me. I lost 1 o-ring that goes on the crank. PTO end. It was orange. Does anyone know the size I need? Looking for another o-ring that goes on round counter balance seal that is held in place with a ring. Does anyone know the...

Perfect! thank you

I just acquired 2 Kawasaki's to go with my Seadoo. In the past, I have always done a compression check on a cold engine, but until today....did not know I was supposed to open carbs all the way. Is that true? Is there a different procedure? Seadoo 720 (new rings) I am getting 150-153 Kawasaki...

recently I honed my cylinders and installed new rings.... #1 140 psi now 153 psi #2 120 psi now 153 psi I've freed up rings with solvent over several days. why not do what I did?....chances are a huge improvement will happen Many times I've read where adding oil then doing a compression check...

yes I did....actually paid a sponsor of this website to do it.

I am looking to eliminate the bog that I have to feather throttle to keep from stalling (transition) Other than that....my GTI runs fine (idle and high speed). Can I add an accelerator pump to existing carb to get beyond this? If so....where can I get one?

New question.... I put an accessory electrical outlet in the glove box....a marine version of course Just want the ability to keep cell phone charged. Other than direct to battery, is there another place to tie into electrical system? I had thought of adding a blue tooth speaker system with...

great idea....I sure will

fixed the sending unit....F1 fuse plus float had fuel in it and chrome plating coming off of magnets. for some reason....no longer oil in the bilge. going to look at hose connections, there was some oil on counterweights.

I bought a nice 1997 GTI that needed a little care and for the most part, it's been a lot of fun now that it's reliable. this past weekend... I changed out all upper end gaskets and seals while honing my cylinders (a first for me), decarbon pistons and changing out rings. Cylinders and pistons...

you were right!!!! first time since I had issue and it performed flawlessly for hours. Maybe I ran over a plastic bag weeks back that blocked the pump intake....who knows, but no issues now. I did replace the start stop switch. what a huge improvement that was. before.... you could not feel or...

My Seadoo is running pretty good these days. I do think the low speed is a little lean as it might die when I get into the throttle. what do you guys think if I open low speed 1/8 of a turn?

got it all back together....will test soon. Since I found NOTHING wrong (thanks for confirmation FlyboyX)....I'll have to hope it was some sort of assembly error. Here's a thought, and really hope it's not this..., has anyone ever had a crankshaft strip where the PTO does not thread on? I tried...

OK here’s the latest picture. It seems to me all the splines look intact. I find no metal shavings. The only thing that grab my attention was maybe the pump housing wasn’t screwed securely enough to the Sea-Doo and somehow the PTO lost its grip on the shaft.

I have taken everything off except PTO. all the splines look the same and NO METAL SHAVINGS ON ANYTHING. Please confirm if I am supposed to have a rubber insert on BOTH ENDS of driveshaft (I do). I am wondering if my shaft was stuffed into PTO far enough? Maybe there is something inside PTO...